Tysons Corner-M clean, VA
Less than a year ago, I flew into Raleigh, North Carolina for a Spy Conference, sponsored by local media. I had a good time and learned a lot. Also I was recommended for associate membership in the Association of Former Intelligence Officers, which includes not only CIA types, but strays from military and law enforcement. I managed to slip through one of the loop holes and thus, took myself at their two day yearly symposium in mid-April, 2012.
Home base was the Crown Plaza Hotel, Tysons Corner: quite elegant! This has been a year of elegant hotels for me, what with the stays in Saudi Arabia. I must say though, Tysons Corner is not the beauty spot of Virginia - busy thruways, a collection of office buildings, a large shopping mall and the work-in-progress rail link to DC. did not encourage early sunrise sightings.
However, we spent part of one day at the Office of the Director of National Intelligence at Liberty Crossing and a full day at the Defense Intelligence Agency at Bolling AF Base. The Symposium concluded with a gala banquet. I didn’t know a soul there; looked for my sponsor, a semi-retired AF Colonel, with no success.
Most of the attendees were of the gray,white, or no haired set: about a dozen women - they came from that time where females were mostly clerical workers - half a dozen African- Americans (and about four of them female) and several Asians. They were an alert audience and made good use of the Q&As. One individual had been charged with training Afghan army recruits; another had contact with Robert Hansen, not one of the FBI’s finest; others were active with cyber security, and so on.
The military types have impressed me as no-nonsense guys, forthright and direct in their discussions. James Clapper Jr., the Director of National Intelligence, started as a Marine and retired as LTG, USAF; LTG Mike Flynn, USA,Assistant Director of National Intelligence (and soon to be Director of Defense Intelligence Agency), and LTG Ronald Burgess,USA, Defense Intelligence Director were all individuals I could respect.
The Symposium started at the hotel with a former FBI Counter Intelligence and Security Director, who who presented background on US intelligence gathering. According to David Major, Russians and Chinese are the two biggest collectors of information - and also are busy, spying on each other.
We were quite efficiently processed into the Office of the Director of National Intelligence. There were six speakers, including Director Clapper, focusing on private sector engagements, Intelligence integration, human resources, and technology. I should explain the Director Clapper is the Intelligence Czar; a position created out of the rubble of 9/11 - I asked one of the experts whether it was a helpful move or just another layer of bureaucracy; that person originally felt it was another layer of bureaucracy but now was supportive of its efforts to coordinate the collection of existing intelligence agencies.
So, here are abbreviated notes from the sessions:
Post WW2, there was a system of containment which worked given the Cold War time. However, all changed post 9/11. Since, a fully integrated intelligence community has made the nation more secure. The current approach is to be problem preventers rather than problem solvers. The Intelligence office now works closely with Congress, Civil Liberties groups and legal communities. They are learning more about the scope of social media and cell phones. Comment: need is to focus on the problem rather than just the data.
Intelligence integration makes the whole better than the parts. Basically, there all areas should work together, including the private sector, eg: academics and non-governmental organizations. It appears the US is still in the running vis a vis the Chinese. But admittedly, the US has made poor assumptions: eg: Iraq!
The worldwide Intelligence Community is changing: There used to be were similar values among the players;. now, other cultures, not all nation-states, are involved. Again, integration of information is the key, involving federal, state, local and tribal services.
Concurrent with the new crises, there is the demand to reduce costs, eg. by 25%. Which leads to out sourcing and sharing single cyber platforms. In short, the effort is to protect the mission despite taking a cut in the budget.
Per Director Clapper, agencies did acquire many more people since 9/1, but now, the agencies must deal with financial cuts. He is trying to take the negative and turn it into a positive: Integration is most important, involving all the leaders in the community. He listed several considerations: 1) sustain staff, 2) employ agile capabilities, 3) key investment to maintain strategic advantage. 4) enhance cyber security and Counter intelligence, 5) more integration with Department of Defense and allies.
In answers to questions, Director Clapper commented that the Muslim Brotherhood is not monolithic and not necessarily a terrorist organization; there are 50 pieces of pending legislation re: cyber security, overseas threats appear more serious than home grown ones, contractors have been cut by 30% as directed by Congress. and that it is hardest to deal well with things that haven’t happened.
At near daybreak the next day, nearly 200 of us gathered in three buses for the ride to Bolling AF Base. A nice day, we drove on freeways in various states of building and repair. The Defense Intelligence Agency was housed in a huge, new glass-steel building at odds with the older brick dwellings of the air base. The security arrangements were strictly TSA sans any check of individual ID?
There were a dozen participants, including LTG Burgess. Topics included discussion of a five year strategic plan, the role of Defense Intelligence Officers, Counter Intelligence/ Humint Center, collection management (strategy and programs), the National Intelligence University, and cyber security/ analysis.
Per speakers, lessons were learned from Iraq and Afghanistan, intelligence was going to do more for less. While Defense Intelligence was primarily to assist military operations, there was the emphasis on integration of information as well as working outside US Intelligence organizations and other think tanks.
Trilateral threat assessments are coordinated with US, Canada and Mexico. Drug, terrorist and cyber threats are evaluated by this coalition. The Diplomatic Attaché program is also managed by the Defense Intelligence Agency.
Before 9/11, it seems that the various agencies marched to the tune of their own drummer. Since, strides have been made to integrate the various agencies. Counter Intelligence seemed “ahead of the curve” more than other aspects of intelligence.
LTG Burgess talked of turning currents against Al Qaeda, which continues to be active in Iraq (pro-Sunni), showing up in Syria, with increased activity in Yemen, popping up in Libya, and busy in Somalia. There are current concerns with Iran and cyber security. In 2020, he sees China, as a regional power, competing with the US but not a global peer competitor. To sustain her populations, China will be busy as she must create ten million new jobs over the oncoming years.
A National Intelligence University was started in 1962 and has continued, under varying names and guises. It has a teaching, research and outreach mission. Master’s degrees are offered along with certification programs. The University is accredited.
Talking of cyber security, it appears there are three levels: hackers, criminals and purposeful actors eg: nation states , non national-states and individual groups. Recently, social media has come to the fore. There was some discussion of Wikileaks. Again there was the emphasis to collaborate on all aspects - cyber security and counterintelligence.
Lunch was in the lobby, I was seated next to an Iraqi Scud missile. There was also a shop with caps, sweatshirts, t-shirts, coffee cups and the like, labeled DIA, CIA and related identification. I decided not to buy as couldn’t quite see myself wandering about the Middle East or Central Asia with a cap or t-shirt reading CIA. In fact, there was a shuttle run from the hotel to the CIA gift shop at Herendon for the committed. I also missed that one. But I did do the Banquet - Spies in Black Ties! That turned out to be quite social. The group at our table was a chatty bunch and fun.
The speaker was a former Deputy Director of the CIA, now at Johns Hopkins University. He started by commenting that Intelligence is the least understood instrument of foreign relations. US was the last major country to organize intelligence; we have had an intelligence organization only since 1947. Since 9/11, the government has devoted resources to intelligence activity, giving it a robust legal authority, obtaining unprecedented cooperation from both civilian and military sources.
He gave background on AlQaeda, past to the present, reporting while the core is weakened but the affiliates and lone wolves have come to the fore. The US is probably safer now, but not out of the woods. His concluded with the observation that we now live in a time where events in one part of the world quickly affect the rest of us.
That was it. I did show up to the Saturday breakfast meeting, but it was a housekeeping session. I checked out and flew home. I don’t know that I would do this again: it would depend upon speakers and field trips. But I did find it worth while, once around, to experience the ambiance of this particular world.
Cost: Air fare: $440.60. Hotel: $340.38. Conference: $695.
Friday, May 4, 2012
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Colby Miitary Writers' Symposium April 2012
Norwich College, Vermont: April 2012
Two years ago, I flew to Vermont for the two day Colby Military Writers Symposium, interested in their discussion of Iraq and Afghanistan. Norwich College, where the gathering was held, was charming; Then, it was cold, snowy and picturesque. On return this year, I found it chilly, mostly dry and still picturesque. Both the town of Northfield and the college.
To explain: The Colby Military Writers’ Symposium is named after former CIA Director, William E Colby, a WW 2 OSS veteran. A long time friend of Norwich University, he was awarded an Honorary Doctorate in Public Service in 1992. In 1997, the Military Writers’ Symposium was named after him.
As before, I found the participants thoughtful and considered in their discussion of the country’s present problems - the title of the symposium was Afghanistan and America’s Endless War on Terrorism. And certainly not boring.
But preceding the symposium proper. there was a day’s presentations by four authors. All their recent books but one were with a military theme: a novel about the Civil War, a study of Naval warfare in the South Pacific during WW2, a memoir of a Marine’s experiences in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the status of today’s media by thirty year ABC Journalist. It was a nice balance of participants: a retired light Colonel, a Marine Captain who had moved onto to strategic analysis, a naval historian cum literary agent, and the long time reporter.
Barrie Dunsmore, who wrote There and Back, talked about The Demise of the News Media and Why That Matters. pointed out past commitment of networks to the news. In recent years, though, ratings went down. Beancutters moved in, a business model prevailed plus the challenge of cable and the Internet in all varieties. One comment that scored for me, a former Journalism student, was that current audiences seemed to identify with opinionated commentary rather than factual reporting.
I was most interested in Ralph Peters, retired military, author, commentator, and columnist - I have read several of his books and follow his column in an American military magazine. Don’t always agree with him, but find him articulate and knowledgeable. He has written one of the best travel books I’ve read, Looking for Trouble. His current book, Cain at Gettysburg, is a novel of the Civil War so it was logical he spoke of Myths of Gettysburg.
One comment Peters made about writing: the historian gives the facts while well done historical fiction captures the flavor and emotions of the time. Also, while the current thesis we have never been so politically divided, is not true when one considers past intramural conflicts. Peters talked at some length about the battles at Gettysburg and the leaders. For him, it was clear that Meade won Gettysburg for the Union.
Nathaniel Fick, a infantry officer. had won the Colby award in 2006, with his book, One Bullet Away. Now CEO of a security research organization, his topic was American Power and Purpose in Afghanistan, Iraq and Beyond. A classics major as an undergraduate, he read of the Peloponnesian Wars before his active duty which found him with the canceled mission at Tora Bora. He talked of the difference between Iraq, urban warfare, and Afghanistan, which was definitely rural. And the college’s cadets poured in to hear him.
In his comparison of conflicts, they range from Insurgency (ie: Iraq and Afghanistan) through conventional warfare to the nuclear option (North Korea and Iran). Two comments that got my attention: the Interest on the debt will soon be exceeded by defense expenditures; our allies are spending less on defense while we are the world’s biggest defense spender. Also, : the US is good at building but needs be more flexible and relevant.
I remembered James Hornfischer from the 2010 Colby; his third book, Neptune’s Inferno, is just out. And that was what he talked about, the WW2 naval engagements in the South Pacific during WW2, at Guadalcanal. I was most interested for my husband was a Yeoman aboard ship anchored at Noumea during that time.
Horfischer described the problems with the Guadalcanal campaign. The Marines were dropped off, with the Navy then caught up in its own problems. Though the US had superiority daytimes, the Japanese took over at night. The non use of newly developed radar compounded the issue. Changes in command lead to Halsey’s appointment as the in-charge guy - respected by subordinates and a gambler by nature, he took chances and won out. Comment: Midway belonged to the air fleet while Guadalcanal was a naval foray.
Speakers were on the local radio and met with students in classes. A military school. Norwich has combined civilian-cadet students. One of the graduating cadets I talked with, is an education major hoping to teach in elementary school upon graduation. No plan to enter the military. All types, including former service(wo)men.
The Symposium featured the three authors with James Hornfischer moderating. It was the third year that the Afghanistan conflict had been featured: The Endless War?
The newsman, remembering when the Russians came into Afghanistan, felt it was time to make an end to our involvement, commenting that there were similarities to the Russian experience as well as US efforts in Vietnam. Concerns about neighboring Pakistan seem to justify the US involvement with Afghanistan. But, we need allies there and our allies seem to be bailing.
The former Army officer thought the US had been successful in the original mission in 2002 but then confused AlQueda and the Taliban, the latter being the local Afghan hill billies, no particular threat to the US. He was very critical of US efforts at nation building and the COIN philosophy, which does assume a stable government. He felt religion was a key factor in the insurgency. He thought Pakistan was more important in the Cold War context than now.
The Marine noted that while Kabul was the political capital of the country, Kandalhar was the spiritual center. Also, a deadline for the Western military support means you have given up any supremacy. Another problem is the dis inclination to relieve poorly performing officers from command - at one time, an officer could be transferred to another assignment, where he might be more successful. Any such move is now seen as a “demerit”. He also suggested the US and its allies, should be thinking in terms of Pakistan-Afghanistan rather than Afghanistan-Pakistan.
Concluding, the Marine paraphrased a ET Lawrence quote: “Do not try to do too much with your own hands; better the Arabs do it tolerably than you do it perfectly. It’s their war and you are there to help them, not to win it for them,” as applying to the Afghanistan problem. And then commented that concerns with Afghanistan may diminish as the West becomes more involved with Israel and Iran.
The Reception and Dinner was the final evening, a mix of authors, guests, donors, alumni, and cadets. The menu was mixed, inspired by the books featured during the Symposium. There were several presentation, including the 2012 Colby Award winner, Michael Franzak’s A Nighmare’s Prayer, a Afghanistan memoir by a Marine Harrier pilot. It was at the Dinner’s conclusion that the Symposium’s Director, Dr Andrew Knauf, gave an outline of Terrorism, from pre Christian times to the now -well researched and presented.
And so the next morning, I packed up and headed back to San Francisco.
I stayed in a nearby B/B - the operators were off in the UK but had left a key for me. I had breakfast at the college cafeteria. So it was $310 for three nights at The Elizabethan, $200 round trip shuttle to/from Burlington airport, and $150 for the Symposium. Round trip airfare was $472, with United going out of its way to change flights so I could return home several hours earlier.
I probably will return another year, depending on program and speakers.
Two years ago, I flew to Vermont for the two day Colby Military Writers Symposium, interested in their discussion of Iraq and Afghanistan. Norwich College, where the gathering was held, was charming; Then, it was cold, snowy and picturesque. On return this year, I found it chilly, mostly dry and still picturesque. Both the town of Northfield and the college.
To explain: The Colby Military Writers’ Symposium is named after former CIA Director, William E Colby, a WW 2 OSS veteran. A long time friend of Norwich University, he was awarded an Honorary Doctorate in Public Service in 1992. In 1997, the Military Writers’ Symposium was named after him.
As before, I found the participants thoughtful and considered in their discussion of the country’s present problems - the title of the symposium was Afghanistan and America’s Endless War on Terrorism. And certainly not boring.
But preceding the symposium proper. there was a day’s presentations by four authors. All their recent books but one were with a military theme: a novel about the Civil War, a study of Naval warfare in the South Pacific during WW2, a memoir of a Marine’s experiences in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the status of today’s media by thirty year ABC Journalist. It was a nice balance of participants: a retired light Colonel, a Marine Captain who had moved onto to strategic analysis, a naval historian cum literary agent, and the long time reporter.
Barrie Dunsmore, who wrote There and Back, talked about The Demise of the News Media and Why That Matters. pointed out past commitment of networks to the news. In recent years, though, ratings went down. Beancutters moved in, a business model prevailed plus the challenge of cable and the Internet in all varieties. One comment that scored for me, a former Journalism student, was that current audiences seemed to identify with opinionated commentary rather than factual reporting.
I was most interested in Ralph Peters, retired military, author, commentator, and columnist - I have read several of his books and follow his column in an American military magazine. Don’t always agree with him, but find him articulate and knowledgeable. He has written one of the best travel books I’ve read, Looking for Trouble. His current book, Cain at Gettysburg, is a novel of the Civil War so it was logical he spoke of Myths of Gettysburg.
One comment Peters made about writing: the historian gives the facts while well done historical fiction captures the flavor and emotions of the time. Also, while the current thesis we have never been so politically divided, is not true when one considers past intramural conflicts. Peters talked at some length about the battles at Gettysburg and the leaders. For him, it was clear that Meade won Gettysburg for the Union.
Nathaniel Fick, a infantry officer. had won the Colby award in 2006, with his book, One Bullet Away. Now CEO of a security research organization, his topic was American Power and Purpose in Afghanistan, Iraq and Beyond. A classics major as an undergraduate, he read of the Peloponnesian Wars before his active duty which found him with the canceled mission at Tora Bora. He talked of the difference between Iraq, urban warfare, and Afghanistan, which was definitely rural. And the college’s cadets poured in to hear him.
In his comparison of conflicts, they range from Insurgency (ie: Iraq and Afghanistan) through conventional warfare to the nuclear option (North Korea and Iran). Two comments that got my attention: the Interest on the debt will soon be exceeded by defense expenditures; our allies are spending less on defense while we are the world’s biggest defense spender. Also, : the US is good at building but needs be more flexible and relevant.
I remembered James Hornfischer from the 2010 Colby; his third book, Neptune’s Inferno, is just out. And that was what he talked about, the WW2 naval engagements in the South Pacific during WW2, at Guadalcanal. I was most interested for my husband was a Yeoman aboard ship anchored at Noumea during that time.
Horfischer described the problems with the Guadalcanal campaign. The Marines were dropped off, with the Navy then caught up in its own problems. Though the US had superiority daytimes, the Japanese took over at night. The non use of newly developed radar compounded the issue. Changes in command lead to Halsey’s appointment as the in-charge guy - respected by subordinates and a gambler by nature, he took chances and won out. Comment: Midway belonged to the air fleet while Guadalcanal was a naval foray.
Speakers were on the local radio and met with students in classes. A military school. Norwich has combined civilian-cadet students. One of the graduating cadets I talked with, is an education major hoping to teach in elementary school upon graduation. No plan to enter the military. All types, including former service(wo)men.
The Symposium featured the three authors with James Hornfischer moderating. It was the third year that the Afghanistan conflict had been featured: The Endless War?
The newsman, remembering when the Russians came into Afghanistan, felt it was time to make an end to our involvement, commenting that there were similarities to the Russian experience as well as US efforts in Vietnam. Concerns about neighboring Pakistan seem to justify the US involvement with Afghanistan. But, we need allies there and our allies seem to be bailing.
The former Army officer thought the US had been successful in the original mission in 2002 but then confused AlQueda and the Taliban, the latter being the local Afghan hill billies, no particular threat to the US. He was very critical of US efforts at nation building and the COIN philosophy, which does assume a stable government. He felt religion was a key factor in the insurgency. He thought Pakistan was more important in the Cold War context than now.
The Marine noted that while Kabul was the political capital of the country, Kandalhar was the spiritual center. Also, a deadline for the Western military support means you have given up any supremacy. Another problem is the dis inclination to relieve poorly performing officers from command - at one time, an officer could be transferred to another assignment, where he might be more successful. Any such move is now seen as a “demerit”. He also suggested the US and its allies, should be thinking in terms of Pakistan-Afghanistan rather than Afghanistan-Pakistan.
Concluding, the Marine paraphrased a ET Lawrence quote: “Do not try to do too much with your own hands; better the Arabs do it tolerably than you do it perfectly. It’s their war and you are there to help them, not to win it for them,” as applying to the Afghanistan problem. And then commented that concerns with Afghanistan may diminish as the West becomes more involved with Israel and Iran.
The Reception and Dinner was the final evening, a mix of authors, guests, donors, alumni, and cadets. The menu was mixed, inspired by the books featured during the Symposium. There were several presentation, including the 2012 Colby Award winner, Michael Franzak’s A Nighmare’s Prayer, a Afghanistan memoir by a Marine Harrier pilot. It was at the Dinner’s conclusion that the Symposium’s Director, Dr Andrew Knauf, gave an outline of Terrorism, from pre Christian times to the now -well researched and presented.
And so the next morning, I packed up and headed back to San Francisco.
I stayed in a nearby B/B - the operators were off in the UK but had left a key for me. I had breakfast at the college cafeteria. So it was $310 for three nights at The Elizabethan, $200 round trip shuttle to/from Burlington airport, and $150 for the Symposium. Round trip airfare was $472, with United going out of its way to change flights so I could return home several hours earlier.
I probably will return another year, depending on program and speakers.
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Finally, Libya! 6-18 March 2012
I've been trying to visit Libya for some years. I have a number os articles by those who gt in circa 2004; their experience was totally different than mine. They had minders and fund Tripoli depressing and drab. I had no minder and found Tripoli full of color and energy. The difference: Gadaffi was gone!
I immediately signed on when Political Tours announced a March trip to Libya, even though it centered in Tripoli rather than Benghazi in the East, my main interest. Political Tours' purpose was to explore "the overall fall out from the conflict" and look at "how best can peaceful and durable political settlement . . . be achieved."
Understand that Libya consists of three main sector - Tripolitania, Cyrenaica and Fezzan (the West, the East and the South) - which have been played against each other by Gadaffi. The East led the "Arab Spring" revolt against Gadaffi and it was only six months ago, that the last holdouts in West and South surrendered. The East, which had the oil, felt cheated by the West which had the power. The Sth, desert tribal country, was catered to by Gadaffi. So to say that current governance is in flux, might be an understatement.
There were five of us, led by Political Tours director, an ex NY Times foreign correspondent. Besides myself, there was a semi-retired Texas energy man, an Australian attorney, a British NGO worker from Yemen and a British-Australian-American college student from Colorado. All good travelers; all knowledgeable about the Libyan crises, past and present.
Over the week, we had access to various media representatives, NGO people, local and National interim administrators, British Embassy staff - the American Embassy was on the edge of town and staff unavailable except in emergency as remodeling was occurring - consultants, school staff, militia council leaders, displaced person and average citizens. We were based in Tripoli all but on night when we drove to Misarta and Tauorga.
For the first few days we were followed and filmed by a CNN team and a French TV crew. (see http://backstory.blogs.cnn.com and http://topics.cnn.com/topics/libya) The Tunisian cameraman, half of the French crew, was probably one of the most unforgetable characters I'll ever run into. Energetic and always gleeful, he got into the most unbelievable and dangerous positions to get a shot. Hanging out of the window of a moving auto -
Though I found enthusiasm for a Gadaffi-less country, there was a concern things were moving to slowly toward a functioning government. Yet there was a need to move carefully to avoid further conflict. It all depended upon who you spoke with. The(wo)men on the street were joyful: revolutionary signs and the old/new Libyan flags were all, and I mean all, over. The first Friday I was there, there was a loud and enthusiastic rally supporting an United Libya - One Libya - no federalization. This was in response to a report that Benghazi and the East might loosen ties with a national government from Tripoli.
Another problem was that of the militia/brigade/kitiba members, who continued to main checkpoints and wander about in military garb, carry weapons. On the street and at the airport. Manning check points. Not particularly threatening, at least to us, but there! The hope was most would drift into the army or police - so no direct confrontation with them ala Gadaffi.
Then the garbage: garbage has not been picked up in Tripoli for months. People leaned abut their establishments and took it, neatly tied in plastic bags, elsewhere. NIMBY. According to a member of the Tripoli council, the owner of the previously used garbage site had been forced to provide service during the Gadaffi regim so - with Gadaffi gone, he declared independence from Tripoli's garbage. De facto sites included a mile or more along the airport road with smoldering fires polluting the air. Admittedly a health hazard, the local council was committed to negotiations rather than force the issue with the site's owner. Another effort not to emulate the past.
It's all complicated by a non elected, volunteer government. Much hope is placed on summer elections which will select individuals to hammer out a Constitution - we met with a woman anxious t be one of those selected. Subsequently, an other election to approve the Constitution and elect representatives. At the moment, the National Transitional Council theoretically heads the country and the Tripoli Local Council has responsibility for the city. Along with militias and the like. But political parties are being to be former. Remember, this is a country with 42 years of autocratic rule, feeling it was politically.
As a local Journalist pointed out, Libya had a social uprising while Egypt had a civil war. And the Libyan uprising involved planning between militias, army and NATO. At the beginning, it was thought all would end quickly, as in Tunisia and Egypt. It was a surprise that Gadaffi reacted so strongly. One comment was that it was probably good that the revolutionaries didn't realize the extent of Gadaffi's resistance or there might not have been a Libyan Revolt.
We visited Bab Azizya, the remains of Gadaffi's headquarters and home. Thoroughly trashed by NATO and locals, much more than Saddam's Babylon palace. Some families moved into nearby army bunker, cleaning up the interiors and caging electricity from a nearby apartment complex. We talked with a hospital administrator who had moved him family in he could not manage ongoing rent. Salaries are not good to civil servants.
At the old prison, Abu Seleem, where people had been detained indefinitely in the old days, a former immate was our guide. Other ex-inmates were around, showing their former quarters to their families. Our guy had been there for eleven years for the crime of early morning prayer at the mosque - never convicted.
At Misrate, there are various militias whose members were active in the fighting, not only locally but in Tripoli and Sirte. They also hated their neighbors, the Tauogans, ex-slaves of generations ago, considered as pro-Gadaffi. I'm not sure in what order it happened, but some Tauogans raped and pillaged Misratans and Misratans trashed Tauoga and ran residents out, holding all responsible for the actions of, possibly, several hundred.
Misrate was really decimated - there was hard, hand to hand fighting and I could see where mortar and sniper shots landed on the buildings. There is now a museum, with captured military equipment and walls lined with photos of those killed, both fighters and victims. People. obviously moved by their time visiting, wrote rather lengthy comments in the visitors' log. A military cuncil commander, a former agricultural worker, mentoined problems of PTSD resulting from the conflict. Like the Triploi officias, he talked of the militias being absorbed into police, army or back to their old professions.
The Tauogans were rescued and brught t Tripli where they are housed in a former Navy facility as IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons). Effectively, they are detained, for they are endangered if they leave the camp. (I heard the chairman of the NTC refer to them as "non Libyans" though he quickly reversed himself) As a group, we met with several leaders of the community. Later, two from the group returned to spend more time talking with them. The Tauogans want to return home and feel no one cares about what happens to them. Their homes are severely damaged and they are unable to protect their lands. Doctors Without Borders and Save the Children are the agencies presently helping them.
Human Rights Watch is concerned about the status of those detained by the militias rather than the Ministry of the Interior - and thus subject to the caprices of the winners. Another example of oppressed becoming oppressor!
In and about Tripoli, there were uncompleted building projects, with silent cranes standing sentry, and a deteriorating infrastructure. Conversely, people were working on small remodeling and maintenance projects. In the Medina where I stayed, there were ongoing efforts - along with some of the more creative writing Ive seen sort of Chungking Mansions in Kowloon. As usual, by the time I figured out all the byways, I moved on.
Many women wear headscarves and long coats though a younger group is in tight jeans but head, headscarf. People were welcoming asking where I was from, happy with the American help in the conflict, and approving of my Palestinian head scarf. Throughout I felt perfectly safe, poking about on my own, Though the tour group did have Security for most of our travels - the best and most professional I've run into in he eight countries where I've dealt with it. Inconspucious but aware. No weapons, but even so, I wouldn't want to tangle with any of our people. Excepting the in-charge guy, they were locals with their stories of the fighting.
There were two sightseeing opportunities: Leptis Magna, as part of the tour, and Sabratha, where three of us went on our own. Both were exhilarating. World Heritage sites. Part of my ongoing efforts to track the Romans on their travels of centuries back. Both on the coast with a backdrop of blue sea for the ruins. We were among the few visitors to both sites. Fantastic experience.
Accommodatons: Could not have been better; The El Khan Hotel in the Medina, near the Marcus Arelius Arch. With conveniences and atmosphere.
Food: I ate more pizza than I've ever had in my life. It was that or baked chicken or grilled fish or kabobs. My best meal was a chicken-cheese-spinach sandwich with a mixed fruit drink at a nearby cafe. However, I must admit two buffet breakfast at the Cornthia Hotel were superb, though $30 apiece.
Tour: In some ways, this tour was similar to the several Global Exchange/Realty tours I've gone with - an educational experience, above and beyond the usual sightseeing. A bit more pricey but I though it worth it given the quality of the interviewees. I'll travel with Political Tours again, likely into the Balkans.
And I'm still hoping for trek into Eastern and Southern Libya.
Cost: The tour cost: about $7500, including the last minute visa fees. I was there three days on my own. I used frequent flyers miles - about wiped our my account - only $205 airfare, including two segments Business class. But even in Economy, the seat next to me was empty - second time that has happened. I must be living right.
I immediately signed on when Political Tours announced a March trip to Libya, even though it centered in Tripoli rather than Benghazi in the East, my main interest. Political Tours' purpose was to explore "the overall fall out from the conflict" and look at "how best can peaceful and durable political settlement . . . be achieved."
Understand that Libya consists of three main sector - Tripolitania, Cyrenaica and Fezzan (the West, the East and the South) - which have been played against each other by Gadaffi. The East led the "Arab Spring" revolt against Gadaffi and it was only six months ago, that the last holdouts in West and South surrendered. The East, which had the oil, felt cheated by the West which had the power. The Sth, desert tribal country, was catered to by Gadaffi. So to say that current governance is in flux, might be an understatement.
There were five of us, led by Political Tours director, an ex NY Times foreign correspondent. Besides myself, there was a semi-retired Texas energy man, an Australian attorney, a British NGO worker from Yemen and a British-Australian-American college student from Colorado. All good travelers; all knowledgeable about the Libyan crises, past and present.
Over the week, we had access to various media representatives, NGO people, local and National interim administrators, British Embassy staff - the American Embassy was on the edge of town and staff unavailable except in emergency as remodeling was occurring - consultants, school staff, militia council leaders, displaced person and average citizens. We were based in Tripoli all but on night when we drove to Misarta and Tauorga.
For the first few days we were followed and filmed by a CNN team and a French TV crew. (see http://backstory.blogs.cnn.com and http://topics.cnn.com/topics/libya) The Tunisian cameraman, half of the French crew, was probably one of the most unforgetable characters I'll ever run into. Energetic and always gleeful, he got into the most unbelievable and dangerous positions to get a shot. Hanging out of the window of a moving auto -
Though I found enthusiasm for a Gadaffi-less country, there was a concern things were moving to slowly toward a functioning government. Yet there was a need to move carefully to avoid further conflict. It all depended upon who you spoke with. The(wo)men on the street were joyful: revolutionary signs and the old/new Libyan flags were all, and I mean all, over. The first Friday I was there, there was a loud and enthusiastic rally supporting an United Libya - One Libya - no federalization. This was in response to a report that Benghazi and the East might loosen ties with a national government from Tripoli.
Another problem was that of the militia/brigade/kitiba members, who continued to main checkpoints and wander about in military garb, carry weapons. On the street and at the airport. Manning check points. Not particularly threatening, at least to us, but there! The hope was most would drift into the army or police - so no direct confrontation with them ala Gadaffi.
Then the garbage: garbage has not been picked up in Tripoli for months. People leaned abut their establishments and took it, neatly tied in plastic bags, elsewhere. NIMBY. According to a member of the Tripoli council, the owner of the previously used garbage site had been forced to provide service during the Gadaffi regim so - with Gadaffi gone, he declared independence from Tripoli's garbage. De facto sites included a mile or more along the airport road with smoldering fires polluting the air. Admittedly a health hazard, the local council was committed to negotiations rather than force the issue with the site's owner. Another effort not to emulate the past.
It's all complicated by a non elected, volunteer government. Much hope is placed on summer elections which will select individuals to hammer out a Constitution - we met with a woman anxious t be one of those selected. Subsequently, an other election to approve the Constitution and elect representatives. At the moment, the National Transitional Council theoretically heads the country and the Tripoli Local Council has responsibility for the city. Along with militias and the like. But political parties are being to be former. Remember, this is a country with 42 years of autocratic rule, feeling it was politically.
As a local Journalist pointed out, Libya had a social uprising while Egypt had a civil war. And the Libyan uprising involved planning between militias, army and NATO. At the beginning, it was thought all would end quickly, as in Tunisia and Egypt. It was a surprise that Gadaffi reacted so strongly. One comment was that it was probably good that the revolutionaries didn't realize the extent of Gadaffi's resistance or there might not have been a Libyan Revolt.
We visited Bab Azizya, the remains of Gadaffi's headquarters and home. Thoroughly trashed by NATO and locals, much more than Saddam's Babylon palace. Some families moved into nearby army bunker, cleaning up the interiors and caging electricity from a nearby apartment complex. We talked with a hospital administrator who had moved him family in he could not manage ongoing rent. Salaries are not good to civil servants.
At the old prison, Abu Seleem, where people had been detained indefinitely in the old days, a former immate was our guide. Other ex-inmates were around, showing their former quarters to their families. Our guy had been there for eleven years for the crime of early morning prayer at the mosque - never convicted.
At Misrate, there are various militias whose members were active in the fighting, not only locally but in Tripoli and Sirte. They also hated their neighbors, the Tauogans, ex-slaves of generations ago, considered as pro-Gadaffi. I'm not sure in what order it happened, but some Tauogans raped and pillaged Misratans and Misratans trashed Tauoga and ran residents out, holding all responsible for the actions of, possibly, several hundred.
Misrate was really decimated - there was hard, hand to hand fighting and I could see where mortar and sniper shots landed on the buildings. There is now a museum, with captured military equipment and walls lined with photos of those killed, both fighters and victims. People. obviously moved by their time visiting, wrote rather lengthy comments in the visitors' log. A military cuncil commander, a former agricultural worker, mentoined problems of PTSD resulting from the conflict. Like the Triploi officias, he talked of the militias being absorbed into police, army or back to their old professions.
The Tauogans were rescued and brught t Tripli where they are housed in a former Navy facility as IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons). Effectively, they are detained, for they are endangered if they leave the camp. (I heard the chairman of the NTC refer to them as "non Libyans" though he quickly reversed himself) As a group, we met with several leaders of the community. Later, two from the group returned to spend more time talking with them. The Tauogans want to return home and feel no one cares about what happens to them. Their homes are severely damaged and they are unable to protect their lands. Doctors Without Borders and Save the Children are the agencies presently helping them.
Human Rights Watch is concerned about the status of those detained by the militias rather than the Ministry of the Interior - and thus subject to the caprices of the winners. Another example of oppressed becoming oppressor!
In and about Tripoli, there were uncompleted building projects, with silent cranes standing sentry, and a deteriorating infrastructure. Conversely, people were working on small remodeling and maintenance projects. In the Medina where I stayed, there were ongoing efforts - along with some of the more creative writing Ive seen sort of Chungking Mansions in Kowloon. As usual, by the time I figured out all the byways, I moved on.
Many women wear headscarves and long coats though a younger group is in tight jeans but head, headscarf. People were welcoming asking where I was from, happy with the American help in the conflict, and approving of my Palestinian head scarf. Throughout I felt perfectly safe, poking about on my own, Though the tour group did have Security for most of our travels - the best and most professional I've run into in he eight countries where I've dealt with it. Inconspucious but aware. No weapons, but even so, I wouldn't want to tangle with any of our people. Excepting the in-charge guy, they were locals with their stories of the fighting.
There were two sightseeing opportunities: Leptis Magna, as part of the tour, and Sabratha, where three of us went on our own. Both were exhilarating. World Heritage sites. Part of my ongoing efforts to track the Romans on their travels of centuries back. Both on the coast with a backdrop of blue sea for the ruins. We were among the few visitors to both sites. Fantastic experience.
Accommodatons: Could not have been better; The El Khan Hotel in the Medina, near the Marcus Arelius Arch. With conveniences and atmosphere.
Food: I ate more pizza than I've ever had in my life. It was that or baked chicken or grilled fish or kabobs. My best meal was a chicken-cheese-spinach sandwich with a mixed fruit drink at a nearby cafe. However, I must admit two buffet breakfast at the Cornthia Hotel were superb, though $30 apiece.
Tour: In some ways, this tour was similar to the several Global Exchange/Realty tours I've gone with - an educational experience, above and beyond the usual sightseeing. A bit more pricey but I though it worth it given the quality of the interviewees. I'll travel with Political Tours again, likely into the Balkans.
And I'm still hoping for trek into Eastern and Southern Libya.
Cost: The tour cost: about $7500, including the last minute visa fees. I was there three days on my own. I used frequent flyers miles - about wiped our my account - only $205 airfare, including two segments Business class. But even in Economy, the seat next to me was empty - second time that has happened. I must be living right.
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Ten Days in an abaya: 11-23 Feb 12 in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia
The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was one of three countries high on my list of places to go; also high on the list of countries difficult to access. And it looks like I will get to all three this year. But back to Saudi Arabia: Lonely Planet terms the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia as “one of the hardest places in the world to visit” unless you are willing to sign onto “fixed itinerary, high end package tours”. Which I finally did though the itinerary was pretty flexible.
Even so, I had to write a short essay for the KSA embassy people, justifying my interest in visiting the country before I received my visa. So with eight others, including the tour leader, the Arabic speaking owner of the travel company, I took off. The trip managed to touch north and south and places in between. Did several internal flights and one long road trip. I saw desert and mountains, modern and old buildings, covered and uncovered woman’s heads --but all women in abayas. We touched on eight cities, staying overnight in six.
Riyadh, the capital, was the most conservative - head scarves were mandatory for the women with a number also wearing face veils with eyes only showing. Luckily, we ran into the Janadriyah celebration with its performances and exhibitions - and locals interested in taking photos with/of us. Then there was the usual sight seeing: the city’s tallest building with requisite observation deck,a beautifully designed museum, the Old Town, the souk, first of many, and an old fortress.
And traffic in Riyadh, and elsewhere, was fierce. Though our local guide said there was public transport, I didn’t see any. But taxis did good business. And the Toyota company did well, both in the cities and countryside. Toyotas abounded!
We flew to the south and Najran, near the Yemeni border. I felt I had returned to Yemen for the architecture was so much the same - mud bricks with white trim. It was here we met the security police that sporadically led/followed our bus about throughout the trip. The outstanding bit for me was seeing photos by St. John Philby at the Museum. And there ws a camel market plus sheep and goats. A Pakistani goat was a featured player - big and homely - never saw one quite like him before! A huge dam in progress, the local souk and the Historical Palace were before the the nearby ancient rock carvings, the first of a number scattered throughout the country. Per LP, there are some two thousand sites with concentrations about Najran, Al Ula and Hail, extending back some three thousand years.
The mountain city of Abha, adjacent to he Asir National Park with the deserted village of Habalah. was next. A cable car ride takes visitors to the “hanging” village where residents had gotten around via climbing ropes. There was a second cable car ride to another almost inaccessible village. Lovely mountainous countryside.
Next a flight to Jeddah followed by a long, rather tedious ride to Al Ula and the old Railway stations along the Hejaz and the Nabatean ruins (step child to Petra in Jordan) in Mada’in Saleh. This was what I was most interested in for I have been digging along the Hejaz Railway in Jordan for the past four years as part of the Great Arab Revolt Project, and been into Petra on various occasions.
Most of the Saudi track and ties had been “liberated” by locals to use for building projects - our bus gingerly drove atop the railway bed for several miles. Unfortunately, the train barn was locked and I couldn’t see the restored engine though I did wander about the numerous restored buildings at the Hejaz Station - plans are to add a hotel and make it more a tourist site.
Mada’in Salah ws much more spread out than Petra but with less spectacular tombs. A combination of Petra with Wadi Rum. There is a small siq near one site and many of the formations are quite unique and colorful. Time spent there was well worth while. - nothing like clambering about with abeya tied about the waist.
Though there was no overnight stay at Talma, we did spend time there. A very significant archaeological site with the well of all wells, at one time using up to sixty camels to bring up water. The night was spent at Hail, significant as a stopping point for the pilgrims to the Holy Cities and home to the Rashidis, early rivals to Ibn Saud. Then backtracking to the Jubbah area, where there were numerous petrogyph sites. The museum fascinated me with old photos of TE Lawrence, Glubb Pasha and Anne Blunt.
Hail to Jeddah via air for two days and a night: there was the routine sightseeing drive. A wander about the Old Town, still inhabited by refugees from Africa’s conflicted areas. Missed out on one museum but managed part of another with with rooms designed in Arabesque styles with filming of the entire collection. The Corniche was quite impressive and there were malls and souks enough to make any shopper’s heartbeat quicken. Did get to the fish market, where an old Arab,a former Texas resident, wanted his photo taken with me along with a kiss. Then out to a camel farm where camel milk was offered - tried it, still warm from the camel’s udder.
I did met an academic who had studied in the States, a woman who was a King’s Scholar, working in Artificial Intelligence affiliated with the universities at Jeddah and Hail. Bright, attractive and articulate.
I didn’t find the old British Legation nor the old French Embassy where T E Lawrence stayed at various intervals.
The tour leader asked about the difference between expectations and reality after our time in Saudi Arabia: I found it not as repressive as I expected; people were open and friendly. Also the tourist infrastructure was extensive, contrasted with the difficulty of getting visas and dearth of tourists. I didn’t expect English to be a common second language. Another was amazed at the extensive amount of rock art.
Observations: In contrast to the highrises, glass and steel, concrete modern buildings of Riyadh and Jeddah, there was the occasional black Bedu tent in the countryside - with pickup, and livestock, including a couple of camels. In the same vein, I was surprised that most of the toilets were Western rather than “squat. This is truly a country of wealth and progress, except in Human Rights as we Westerners understand them. But the English-language newspapers seemed free enough - Associated Press coverage. Television had BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera.
Food: uniformly good. Mostly hotel buffets though ate a couple of times in local cafes - rice and meat in central platter with a right hand grab. Two times at airports. Several times in upscale restaurants.
Accommodations: Four to five star. Radisson, Holiday Inn and Intercontinental. What more can I say. Best available but then, LP states women should not stay at lesser hotels.
Cost: Tour cost $6715, inclusive meals and domestic flights. Overseas airfare was $1374. Tips totaled about $250. Cat care was $520.
All in all, a good trip - a comfortable trek across the country, sort of a survey 101. Came home with a plethora of maps and literature plus a CD from KSA Tourist Authority.
Even so, I had to write a short essay for the KSA embassy people, justifying my interest in visiting the country before I received my visa. So with eight others, including the tour leader, the Arabic speaking owner of the travel company, I took off. The trip managed to touch north and south and places in between. Did several internal flights and one long road trip. I saw desert and mountains, modern and old buildings, covered and uncovered woman’s heads --but all women in abayas. We touched on eight cities, staying overnight in six.
Riyadh, the capital, was the most conservative - head scarves were mandatory for the women with a number also wearing face veils with eyes only showing. Luckily, we ran into the Janadriyah celebration with its performances and exhibitions - and locals interested in taking photos with/of us. Then there was the usual sight seeing: the city’s tallest building with requisite observation deck,a beautifully designed museum, the Old Town, the souk, first of many, and an old fortress.
And traffic in Riyadh, and elsewhere, was fierce. Though our local guide said there was public transport, I didn’t see any. But taxis did good business. And the Toyota company did well, both in the cities and countryside. Toyotas abounded!
We flew to the south and Najran, near the Yemeni border. I felt I had returned to Yemen for the architecture was so much the same - mud bricks with white trim. It was here we met the security police that sporadically led/followed our bus about throughout the trip. The outstanding bit for me was seeing photos by St. John Philby at the Museum. And there ws a camel market plus sheep and goats. A Pakistani goat was a featured player - big and homely - never saw one quite like him before! A huge dam in progress, the local souk and the Historical Palace were before the the nearby ancient rock carvings, the first of a number scattered throughout the country. Per LP, there are some two thousand sites with concentrations about Najran, Al Ula and Hail, extending back some three thousand years.
The mountain city of Abha, adjacent to he Asir National Park with the deserted village of Habalah. was next. A cable car ride takes visitors to the “hanging” village where residents had gotten around via climbing ropes. There was a second cable car ride to another almost inaccessible village. Lovely mountainous countryside.
Next a flight to Jeddah followed by a long, rather tedious ride to Al Ula and the old Railway stations along the Hejaz and the Nabatean ruins (step child to Petra in Jordan) in Mada’in Saleh. This was what I was most interested in for I have been digging along the Hejaz Railway in Jordan for the past four years as part of the Great Arab Revolt Project, and been into Petra on various occasions.
Most of the Saudi track and ties had been “liberated” by locals to use for building projects - our bus gingerly drove atop the railway bed for several miles. Unfortunately, the train barn was locked and I couldn’t see the restored engine though I did wander about the numerous restored buildings at the Hejaz Station - plans are to add a hotel and make it more a tourist site.
Mada’in Salah ws much more spread out than Petra but with less spectacular tombs. A combination of Petra with Wadi Rum. There is a small siq near one site and many of the formations are quite unique and colorful. Time spent there was well worth while. - nothing like clambering about with abeya tied about the waist.
Though there was no overnight stay at Talma, we did spend time there. A very significant archaeological site with the well of all wells, at one time using up to sixty camels to bring up water. The night was spent at Hail, significant as a stopping point for the pilgrims to the Holy Cities and home to the Rashidis, early rivals to Ibn Saud. Then backtracking to the Jubbah area, where there were numerous petrogyph sites. The museum fascinated me with old photos of TE Lawrence, Glubb Pasha and Anne Blunt.
Hail to Jeddah via air for two days and a night: there was the routine sightseeing drive. A wander about the Old Town, still inhabited by refugees from Africa’s conflicted areas. Missed out on one museum but managed part of another with with rooms designed in Arabesque styles with filming of the entire collection. The Corniche was quite impressive and there were malls and souks enough to make any shopper’s heartbeat quicken. Did get to the fish market, where an old Arab,a former Texas resident, wanted his photo taken with me along with a kiss. Then out to a camel farm where camel milk was offered - tried it, still warm from the camel’s udder.
I did met an academic who had studied in the States, a woman who was a King’s Scholar, working in Artificial Intelligence affiliated with the universities at Jeddah and Hail. Bright, attractive and articulate.
I didn’t find the old British Legation nor the old French Embassy where T E Lawrence stayed at various intervals.
The tour leader asked about the difference between expectations and reality after our time in Saudi Arabia: I found it not as repressive as I expected; people were open and friendly. Also the tourist infrastructure was extensive, contrasted with the difficulty of getting visas and dearth of tourists. I didn’t expect English to be a common second language. Another was amazed at the extensive amount of rock art.
Observations: In contrast to the highrises, glass and steel, concrete modern buildings of Riyadh and Jeddah, there was the occasional black Bedu tent in the countryside - with pickup, and livestock, including a couple of camels. In the same vein, I was surprised that most of the toilets were Western rather than “squat. This is truly a country of wealth and progress, except in Human Rights as we Westerners understand them. But the English-language newspapers seemed free enough - Associated Press coverage. Television had BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera.
Food: uniformly good. Mostly hotel buffets though ate a couple of times in local cafes - rice and meat in central platter with a right hand grab. Two times at airports. Several times in upscale restaurants.
Accommodations: Four to five star. Radisson, Holiday Inn and Intercontinental. What more can I say. Best available but then, LP states women should not stay at lesser hotels.
Cost: Tour cost $6715, inclusive meals and domestic flights. Overseas airfare was $1374. Tips totaled about $250. Cat care was $520.
All in all, a good trip - a comfortable trek across the country, sort of a survey 101. Came home with a plethora of maps and literature plus a CD from KSA Tourist Authority.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Rajasthan: Xmas 2011 plus New Years 2012.
Or this could be subtitled, The Dog Ate the Newtons, or The Cow in the RR station.
This year three of us from last year’s Oman trip plus a fourth from a Mali trip, joined forces to explore Rajasthan independently. Two Americans and two Brits, all women of a certain maturity. Most of the planning was done by one of the Brits and implemented by a New Zealander with an Indian bas ed tour company.
Accommodation was in reasonably priced guesthouses, havelis, hotels and two nights sleeping out on charboys. Transportation was mostly by train - first class, second class, third class, coach - where ever we could get seats. Several times we had car and driver as there was no other way to reach the destination. Locally, the four of us crowded into motorized rickshaws (aka tuk-tuks) as necessary.
The itinerary was Delhi>Jaisalmer>Jodphur>Jaipur>Pushkar>Udaipur>Ranakpur>
Ranthambore>Agra>Delhi with one going on to Bharatpur for two days bird watching while two headed home and another onto Mumbai to visit a friend. Armed with three guidebooks - Rough Guide, Lonely Planet and Footprints - and an ability to bargain, we spent three weeks in Rajasthan. And yes, Indians celebrate the holidays, with lights and trees and tinsel.
Actually, on Christmas Day, we were homeless in Pushkar. We had to check out of our guesthouse before noon and weren’t due to take the the “Midnight Flyer” out of Ajmer to Udaipur until 12:55 AM. Fortunately, the parent haveli for our lodging let us leave baggage. We wandered about the town, famous for its Fall Camel Fair.
Three of us made Puja with flowers given us; however, we may not have had the proper attitude for difficulties followed us for a few days afterward. We had a good Christmas dinner at the haveli and then to the Ajmer station, where the floor was covered with sleepers, not unique, but the wandering cow was. Roaming in between prone bodies, she managed not to splat on anyone.
Turned out there was a mistake in our tickets, the first train to Udaipur was full up, and we waited for the next train, now with only a General ticket but no seat/bunk assignment. Time was spent observing the rats’ activity about the station. Did get on this train, did get places to sit/ lie down.
New Years was better - we had a roof over our heads at Ranthamblore - but a severe thunder storm blew the management’s plans for a big New Years Eve Garden gala outside with food, fire, music and dancer. It became a crowded inside affair, still with food, music dancer - and space heater.. New Year’s Day was dry so we did eat outside, huddled about the various fire pits. But two trips for some, three for others, out to the the National Park netted no Tiger sightings - suspect they holed up with the storm and the wet. But there was a interesting film shown, Broken Tail, following a local tiger that wandered way off its turf
But first was Delhi where we stayed in the Old City, walking distance to the Red Fort, the Jama Mosque,Lahore Gate and Gandhi Memorial. Hiring a taxi, we moved into New Delhi and Humayun’s Tomb (precursor to the Taj Mahal), Connaught Place, India Gate where a rehearsal for Government Day ceremonies was happening, and a walk around the beautifully maintained government buildings - as contrasted with other parts of Delhi that weren’t as beautifully maintained.
Then, to Jaisalmer on the edge of the Thar desert. It reminded me of Timbuktu - what is there about frontier desert towns? A gritty, unfinished quality. We stayed at a charming guesthouse on the edge of town where arrangements were made for two nights in the desert with two camels, overnight in the desert being a big tourist attraction, I found it a tacky desert, decorated with bits and pieces of trash.
We “camped” roadside near the structure holding equipment for the campout. The quilts and charboys were lugged a bit away, so there was an illusion of solitude,but tire tracks and lights of a nearby village gave lie to that illusion. We, our guide, his eleven year helper, and the camels, wandered about aimlessly, returning to to base at night. To experience the true Thar desert, you needed a permit to get further in, nearer the Pakistan border.
But others in the Gang of Four, enjoyed the experience. even the roaming dog who stole the raspberry newtons from my backpack, wrapping and all.
In Jaisalmer, there was the Fort with its shops and Jain Temples, the lovely Gadi Sugur, once the source of water for the town, and the puppet show - actually marionettes. Fascinating place.
Jophur was next: My notes describe it as “crowded, colorful, dusty, noisy and messy” but then, that describes many Indian towns. LP says of The Fort, Meherangarh, that it is “the most formidable fort in fort-studded Rajasthan”. No argument from me. Awesome, though I was impressed by all the Rajasthan Forts. However, this museum shop had the best selection of any shop on the trip. And the Museum had a lovely collection of old photos taken when King George and Queen Mary were in Jodphur for a Dubar.
Onto Jaipur where we stayed in the middle of the old city where the hotel warned occupants to keep windows shut to keep the monkeys out. On our list was Jantur Mantar, the observatory, which is the best preserved of the five built by Jai Singh. It was as I remembered, with various constructs for measuring the sun. Three of our group took a look at the City Palace Complex and weren’t particularly impressed. But the Fort-palace at Amber was not to be missed, with or without the elephant ride.
Next was the brief stay at Pushkar before heading onto Udaipur, where we relaxed three nights at a haveli overlooking Lake Pichela. Per LP, Udaipur is called the Venice of the East. Lovely and serene - though once away from the haveli, the sounds of India were unabated. We took a boat trip about the lake, three of us had massages, we explored the City Palace and museums, had free tea in the Chrystal Gallery - or at least I think it was - and an evenings entertainment by rather mature dancers and marionettes.
Ranakpur was next. This by car as no train went there. Enroute we stopped at Kumbhalgarh, a huge secluded 15th Century fort, with 36 km. of walls, surrounding palaces, gardens,and temples. Once at Ranakpur, we had the evening meal at an nearby elegant hotel - and I was more impressed by the price than the meal. But the hotel was worth a walk through. The next morning was spent at the Jain Temple complex. with their erotic sculptures and distinctive architecture.
Then to Ranthamblore, with the rainy New Year’s Eve and unsuccessful tiger hunt. However, the Park was beautiful and birds and beasts were about - just not the elusive tiger. .
Agra is in Utter Pradesh but a sight of the Taj Mahal is mandatory for a traveler in India - and two of our group hadn’t been before. We spent time at the imposing, red sandstone Fort where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son for seven years, the Itimad-ud-daulah (aka “baby Taj”) and the Taj Mahal and its adjacent structures and gardens. It was foggy/smoggy but the Taj’s beauty shown through.
This was the end of the line: three of us back to Delhi and one off to Birder’s Inn.
Throughout the journey, we experienced the generosity and kindness of Indians, even when I impolitely waved off a man only trying to keep me from getting totally lost. People made room for us when we were dumped on a train without seat assignments. Strangers were happy to help us find ourselves.
India is a vast country of differences. I had been in some of the cities - Jaipur and Agra - ten years ago; they seemed even nosier and more crowded than I remembered. But earlier this year, I was in NE India which has a different atmosphere than Ladakh, where I traveled last year - both less frenetic. And all varied from Rajasthan. There is a vibrancy and energy which contrasts with the grubbiness and poverty.
Ladies beat the wash to death on one ghat while the trash lies up on another. Proprietors sweep litter before their shops into the open gutters.
There were a large number of Indian tourists - one can only conclude Indians are becoming more affluent and able to travel. One Indian though, said Indians are getting more aware of a larger world than just their families and are now exploring their country. They were surely on the go over the holidays.
Hot water was unpredictable: sometimes, yes but often, no. The trains, though a bit old and grimy, did work: clean sheets and pillow covers were handed out on the sleepers. Hot food was hawked. The only scary time was trying to board in Delhi, when several carloads just debarked and were in a rush to get up and over the stairs and overpass - we were going against the tide and were close to being trampled down.
We ate Indian vegetarian, which was cheap and good. Most places where we stayed included breakfast which often meant corn flakes - either that or chocolate flavored cereal though occasionally, muesli) and omelets, along with Indian items.
I paid roughly $1000 for accommodations and train fares. I spent less than $500 for food, admission tickets, extra transportation and purchases. Airfare with Cathy Pacific cost $1843.20 roundtrip San Francisco to Delhi (and assigned me a bulkhead aisle seat on the Hong Kong-San Francisco segment home).
This year three of us from last year’s Oman trip plus a fourth from a Mali trip, joined forces to explore Rajasthan independently. Two Americans and two Brits, all women of a certain maturity. Most of the planning was done by one of the Brits and implemented by a New Zealander with an Indian bas ed tour company.
Accommodation was in reasonably priced guesthouses, havelis, hotels and two nights sleeping out on charboys. Transportation was mostly by train - first class, second class, third class, coach - where ever we could get seats. Several times we had car and driver as there was no other way to reach the destination. Locally, the four of us crowded into motorized rickshaws (aka tuk-tuks) as necessary.
The itinerary was Delhi>Jaisalmer>Jodphur>Jaipur>Pushkar>Udaipur>Ranakpur>
Ranthambore>Agra>Delhi with one going on to Bharatpur for two days bird watching while two headed home and another onto Mumbai to visit a friend. Armed with three guidebooks - Rough Guide, Lonely Planet and Footprints - and an ability to bargain, we spent three weeks in Rajasthan. And yes, Indians celebrate the holidays, with lights and trees and tinsel.
Actually, on Christmas Day, we were homeless in Pushkar. We had to check out of our guesthouse before noon and weren’t due to take the the “Midnight Flyer” out of Ajmer to Udaipur until 12:55 AM. Fortunately, the parent haveli for our lodging let us leave baggage. We wandered about the town, famous for its Fall Camel Fair.
Three of us made Puja with flowers given us; however, we may not have had the proper attitude for difficulties followed us for a few days afterward. We had a good Christmas dinner at the haveli and then to the Ajmer station, where the floor was covered with sleepers, not unique, but the wandering cow was. Roaming in between prone bodies, she managed not to splat on anyone.
Turned out there was a mistake in our tickets, the first train to Udaipur was full up, and we waited for the next train, now with only a General ticket but no seat/bunk assignment. Time was spent observing the rats’ activity about the station. Did get on this train, did get places to sit/ lie down.
New Years was better - we had a roof over our heads at Ranthamblore - but a severe thunder storm blew the management’s plans for a big New Years Eve Garden gala outside with food, fire, music and dancer. It became a crowded inside affair, still with food, music dancer - and space heater.. New Year’s Day was dry so we did eat outside, huddled about the various fire pits. But two trips for some, three for others, out to the the National Park netted no Tiger sightings - suspect they holed up with the storm and the wet. But there was a interesting film shown, Broken Tail, following a local tiger that wandered way off its turf
But first was Delhi where we stayed in the Old City, walking distance to the Red Fort, the Jama Mosque,Lahore Gate and Gandhi Memorial. Hiring a taxi, we moved into New Delhi and Humayun’s Tomb (precursor to the Taj Mahal), Connaught Place, India Gate where a rehearsal for Government Day ceremonies was happening, and a walk around the beautifully maintained government buildings - as contrasted with other parts of Delhi that weren’t as beautifully maintained.
Then, to Jaisalmer on the edge of the Thar desert. It reminded me of Timbuktu - what is there about frontier desert towns? A gritty, unfinished quality. We stayed at a charming guesthouse on the edge of town where arrangements were made for two nights in the desert with two camels, overnight in the desert being a big tourist attraction, I found it a tacky desert, decorated with bits and pieces of trash.
We “camped” roadside near the structure holding equipment for the campout. The quilts and charboys were lugged a bit away, so there was an illusion of solitude,but tire tracks and lights of a nearby village gave lie to that illusion. We, our guide, his eleven year helper, and the camels, wandered about aimlessly, returning to to base at night. To experience the true Thar desert, you needed a permit to get further in, nearer the Pakistan border.
But others in the Gang of Four, enjoyed the experience. even the roaming dog who stole the raspberry newtons from my backpack, wrapping and all.
In Jaisalmer, there was the Fort with its shops and Jain Temples, the lovely Gadi Sugur, once the source of water for the town, and the puppet show - actually marionettes. Fascinating place.
Jophur was next: My notes describe it as “crowded, colorful, dusty, noisy and messy” but then, that describes many Indian towns. LP says of The Fort, Meherangarh, that it is “the most formidable fort in fort-studded Rajasthan”. No argument from me. Awesome, though I was impressed by all the Rajasthan Forts. However, this museum shop had the best selection of any shop on the trip. And the Museum had a lovely collection of old photos taken when King George and Queen Mary were in Jodphur for a Dubar.
Onto Jaipur where we stayed in the middle of the old city where the hotel warned occupants to keep windows shut to keep the monkeys out. On our list was Jantur Mantar, the observatory, which is the best preserved of the five built by Jai Singh. It was as I remembered, with various constructs for measuring the sun. Three of our group took a look at the City Palace Complex and weren’t particularly impressed. But the Fort-palace at Amber was not to be missed, with or without the elephant ride.
Next was the brief stay at Pushkar before heading onto Udaipur, where we relaxed three nights at a haveli overlooking Lake Pichela. Per LP, Udaipur is called the Venice of the East. Lovely and serene - though once away from the haveli, the sounds of India were unabated. We took a boat trip about the lake, three of us had massages, we explored the City Palace and museums, had free tea in the Chrystal Gallery - or at least I think it was - and an evenings entertainment by rather mature dancers and marionettes.
Ranakpur was next. This by car as no train went there. Enroute we stopped at Kumbhalgarh, a huge secluded 15th Century fort, with 36 km. of walls, surrounding palaces, gardens,and temples. Once at Ranakpur, we had the evening meal at an nearby elegant hotel - and I was more impressed by the price than the meal. But the hotel was worth a walk through. The next morning was spent at the Jain Temple complex. with their erotic sculptures and distinctive architecture.
Then to Ranthamblore, with the rainy New Year’s Eve and unsuccessful tiger hunt. However, the Park was beautiful and birds and beasts were about - just not the elusive tiger. .
Agra is in Utter Pradesh but a sight of the Taj Mahal is mandatory for a traveler in India - and two of our group hadn’t been before. We spent time at the imposing, red sandstone Fort where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son for seven years, the Itimad-ud-daulah (aka “baby Taj”) and the Taj Mahal and its adjacent structures and gardens. It was foggy/smoggy but the Taj’s beauty shown through.
This was the end of the line: three of us back to Delhi and one off to Birder’s Inn.
Throughout the journey, we experienced the generosity and kindness of Indians, even when I impolitely waved off a man only trying to keep me from getting totally lost. People made room for us when we were dumped on a train without seat assignments. Strangers were happy to help us find ourselves.
India is a vast country of differences. I had been in some of the cities - Jaipur and Agra - ten years ago; they seemed even nosier and more crowded than I remembered. But earlier this year, I was in NE India which has a different atmosphere than Ladakh, where I traveled last year - both less frenetic. And all varied from Rajasthan. There is a vibrancy and energy which contrasts with the grubbiness and poverty.
Ladies beat the wash to death on one ghat while the trash lies up on another. Proprietors sweep litter before their shops into the open gutters.
There were a large number of Indian tourists - one can only conclude Indians are becoming more affluent and able to travel. One Indian though, said Indians are getting more aware of a larger world than just their families and are now exploring their country. They were surely on the go over the holidays.
Hot water was unpredictable: sometimes, yes but often, no. The trains, though a bit old and grimy, did work: clean sheets and pillow covers were handed out on the sleepers. Hot food was hawked. The only scary time was trying to board in Delhi, when several carloads just debarked and were in a rush to get up and over the stairs and overpass - we were going against the tide and were close to being trampled down.
We ate Indian vegetarian, which was cheap and good. Most places where we stayed included breakfast which often meant corn flakes - either that or chocolate flavored cereal though occasionally, muesli) and omelets, along with Indian items.
I paid roughly $1000 for accommodations and train fares. I spent less than $500 for food, admission tickets, extra transportation and purchases. Airfare with Cathy Pacific cost $1843.20 roundtrip San Francisco to Delhi (and assigned me a bulkhead aisle seat on the Hong Kong-San Francisco segment home).
Thursday, December 1, 2011
GARP November 14-28, 2011
Wadi Mousa Jordan:
This was my fourth year with the Great Arab Revolt
Project: looking for artifacts from WW1, tracing
the activities of the Arabs versus the Ottoman.
Noted for the involvement of TE Lawrence, many military
professionals were active in supporting the Arab.
In reality, the Brits were actively sponsoring the
Arab effort - with munitions and money! And following
their own political goals.
I became interested after hearing Neil Faulkner, the
co-director of the project, speak at a TE Lawrence
symposium at Oxford some years ago. I have continued
an involvement as I enjoy being part of a historical
adventure: finding bits and pieces that prove/disprove
various theories.
I look forward to each year's expedition and have convinced
several fellow travelers into participating. I think it
important to bring past into present. I like the historical
and philosophical approach of conflict archaeology. As
I trowel, dig and sieve, I feel closeness with those
figures of the past. It keeps me going as I lug goofer
after goofer of sand, rock and dirt of the spoils heap.
We had seven working days, several orientations and two
days off - trips to Petra and Aqaba (though a few went
to the Copper Mines and Wadi Rum, instead). It was a
combination of volunteers and professionals: Brits,
Canadians, an Australian, an Austrian, Americans, a
Jordanian, a Swiss - some returnees and some newbies.
All ages and backgrounds. Over the two weeks, we blended
into cooperative teams.
We started with a quick trip to Little Petra, then the
ruins and of ancient village and finally, a wreck of a
castle walking distance to the hotel. The next day, was
a visit to Year #2's project at Ma'an, to see the restored
railroad station and Abdullah's palace - which could be
a tourist site but the museum's door was locked - only a
mangy looking policeman about to keep out strays.
Then off to climb one of the many hills, covered with sharp
black volcanic rocks - where I managed to crash into a
trench and do a nice job of banging up shoulder, hip and
knee. I managed to carry on with minimum aches and pains
but it wasn't the best of ways to begin.
Though we were scheduled to work about Abu al Lissan, the
site of the major battle between Hashemites and Ottomans,
it was not possible as there were problems with permissions.
So we ended at Ghadir ed Haz, a building blown up by Arabs
and mentions in Seven Pillars of Wisdom, our bible for
much of the work. From there we went onto Birds Nest Camp
where we worked on tent rings for several days. Not my
favorite assignment!
En route to a new assignment, there was a stop to see the
Japanese made facsimile of the Hejaz RR engine, now used
to transport tourists on a Aqaba-Wadi Rum run. I worked
several days at what was called the Square Fort, with a
day at Petra in between. And Petra, even after three
visits, continues as awesome as ever with a fair amount
of tourists, even in the off season.
The next move was to Sidden's Ridge Camp - named in honor
of the WW1 RFC pilot who mapped the area. Four of us
clogged through a never ending mound of sand, to clear
what appeared to be some redoubt. The only blessing was
that we didn't have to sieve. Along the way, there was a
visit to Udrudh, ancient ruins from several earlier
civilizations. And time to visit digs of years past:
from Wadi Rum to Fassu'ah Ridge, where I worked the
first year with GARP.
While I didn't find anything, others were more successful.
Not only did we come up with WW1 artifacts, but there
was a Roman coin and some probable neolithic items,
which went to the sponsoring Jordanian University.
The final day was spent at Aqaba - looking at those working
at the Aylah Project next to an old Mosque site. I then
wandered happily about the Old City, into the Fort and
next door Museum where the antiques were beautifully
presented. Fascinating city, Aqaba - at the apex of
Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and Israel. There was a lot
of new building, but the Old City remains satisfying.
For me, there is nothing as rewarding as a working holiday,
a feeling of contribution. Not that I was discomforted.
I stayed at a 3* hotel, albeit a room with no heat, regular
meals and internet capability. I worked with a dedicated
and interesting group. I was in the Middle East, one of
my favorite areas. What more could one want?
BA was good to me coming home. Upgraded me to Econ+ and
the seat next to was empty. That almost made up for the
overnight at LHR's Terminal 1, Gate 2. Arrived home with 6 dinars and a Dollar - which went for bus fare.
Costs: Airfare SFO-LHR: $955.97. GARP inclusive airfare from LHR, room and board: $3835.
This was my fourth year with the Great Arab Revolt
Project: looking for artifacts from WW1, tracing
the activities of the Arabs versus the Ottoman.
Noted for the involvement of TE Lawrence, many military
professionals were active in supporting the Arab.
In reality, the Brits were actively sponsoring the
Arab effort - with munitions and money! And following
their own political goals.
I became interested after hearing Neil Faulkner, the
co-director of the project, speak at a TE Lawrence
symposium at Oxford some years ago. I have continued
an involvement as I enjoy being part of a historical
adventure: finding bits and pieces that prove/disprove
various theories.
I look forward to each year's expedition and have convinced
several fellow travelers into participating. I think it
important to bring past into present. I like the historical
and philosophical approach of conflict archaeology. As
I trowel, dig and sieve, I feel closeness with those
figures of the past. It keeps me going as I lug goofer
after goofer of sand, rock and dirt of the spoils heap.
We had seven working days, several orientations and two
days off - trips to Petra and Aqaba (though a few went
to the Copper Mines and Wadi Rum, instead). It was a
combination of volunteers and professionals: Brits,
Canadians, an Australian, an Austrian, Americans, a
Jordanian, a Swiss - some returnees and some newbies.
All ages and backgrounds. Over the two weeks, we blended
into cooperative teams.
We started with a quick trip to Little Petra, then the
ruins and of ancient village and finally, a wreck of a
castle walking distance to the hotel. The next day, was
a visit to Year #2's project at Ma'an, to see the restored
railroad station and Abdullah's palace - which could be
a tourist site but the museum's door was locked - only a
mangy looking policeman about to keep out strays.
Then off to climb one of the many hills, covered with sharp
black volcanic rocks - where I managed to crash into a
trench and do a nice job of banging up shoulder, hip and
knee. I managed to carry on with minimum aches and pains
but it wasn't the best of ways to begin.
Though we were scheduled to work about Abu al Lissan, the
site of the major battle between Hashemites and Ottomans,
it was not possible as there were problems with permissions.
So we ended at Ghadir ed Haz, a building blown up by Arabs
and mentions in Seven Pillars of Wisdom, our bible for
much of the work. From there we went onto Birds Nest Camp
where we worked on tent rings for several days. Not my
favorite assignment!
En route to a new assignment, there was a stop to see the
Japanese made facsimile of the Hejaz RR engine, now used
to transport tourists on a Aqaba-Wadi Rum run. I worked
several days at what was called the Square Fort, with a
day at Petra in between. And Petra, even after three
visits, continues as awesome as ever with a fair amount
of tourists, even in the off season.
The next move was to Sidden's Ridge Camp - named in honor
of the WW1 RFC pilot who mapped the area. Four of us
clogged through a never ending mound of sand, to clear
what appeared to be some redoubt. The only blessing was
that we didn't have to sieve. Along the way, there was a
visit to Udrudh, ancient ruins from several earlier
civilizations. And time to visit digs of years past:
from Wadi Rum to Fassu'ah Ridge, where I worked the
first year with GARP.
While I didn't find anything, others were more successful.
Not only did we come up with WW1 artifacts, but there
was a Roman coin and some probable neolithic items,
which went to the sponsoring Jordanian University.
The final day was spent at Aqaba - looking at those working
at the Aylah Project next to an old Mosque site. I then
wandered happily about the Old City, into the Fort and
next door Museum where the antiques were beautifully
presented. Fascinating city, Aqaba - at the apex of
Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and Israel. There was a lot
of new building, but the Old City remains satisfying.
For me, there is nothing as rewarding as a working holiday,
a feeling of contribution. Not that I was discomforted.
I stayed at a 3* hotel, albeit a room with no heat, regular
meals and internet capability. I worked with a dedicated
and interesting group. I was in the Middle East, one of
my favorite areas. What more could one want?
BA was good to me coming home. Upgraded me to Econ+ and
the seat next to was empty. That almost made up for the
overnight at LHR's Terminal 1, Gate 2. Arrived home with 6 dinars and a Dollar - which went for bus fare.
Costs: Airfare SFO-LHR: $955.97. GARP inclusive airfare from LHR, room and board: $3835.
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Sinai-Western Desert: October 2011
I was last in Egypt in 2000, my first - and certainly, not my last - visit to a Muslim country. I spent time in Cairo: stayed in the Dokki area, charged across Tahir Square from the Nile Hilton to the American University to visit their bookstore, went to the Symphony performances, did the Museum, wandered about Old Cairo and saw The Pyramids. Somehow, squeezed in a day in Alexandria, a trip out to the Sinai, and the Nile cruise to Aswan with the usual stop overs at various archaeological sites. A day at Aswan and a flight to Abu Simbel completed the trip. Became friends with a New Yorker, handling her mid-life crisis by taking a year off to backpack around the world - marvelous writer who could have easily gotten her trip-notes published. We’re still in contact.
A year and a half ago, when I read Alex Berenson’s description of his protagonist's, John Wells’, reentry into Cairo in The Midnight House, I knew I had to return. If not to Cairo per se, at least to Egypt. Originally, this was to be a Western Desert-Libyan camping trip but that crashed with the Libyan Revolt. So a Western Desert week was combined with an earlier week in the Sinai - a trip I had put off for I wasn’t sure how I’d manage the Mt. Moses climb - I am an ok recreational hiker but I’m not, and never have been, a serious trekker or climber.
The Sinai trek was an Exodus tour: twelve of us - seven Brits, 2 Canadians, mother-daughter Serbians, and me, the lone American. All younger and all up to the task of scaling the walls of the Wadis. No matter what my efforts, I was dead last in both climbs and descents. It was beautiful country, but sandy, rocky and well sprinkled with boulders. Not much of a path. Sandstone hills and the mountains? Breathtaking, particularly in evenings. Granted at times, it was hard to appreciate the surrounding beauty when one’s energies were spent remaining upright while moving from handhold to toehold in rocks and boulders.
We started in a 5* hotel in Giza in sight of the Pyramids. But then a drive to Southern Sinai where we we walked into our camp in the Jebel Sarabit area, prepared to climb up to climb up to the top the next morning, to explore the ancient Egyptian temple of Hathor and check out some Pharonic era turquoise mines. Then via 4x4s, a stop at the Forest of Pillars before arriving at the camp site at Wadi Jebal. The next day was trekking to Wadi Tellah, where it was so isolated that camels carried our stuff. Enroute, we visited a local school - coeducational with male teachers. We continued on, eating lunches on the move - I managed to lose mine down on wadi or another. I declined an offer for an extra added climb ending in featuring a water hole for the swimmers. Turned out, no water hole and it was almost dark as that bunch felt their way down to the camp.
The following day, we clambered out of the Wadi and to Fox Camp and St. Catherine’s Monastery. The church/ monastery was golden and glorious as only the Greek Orthodox can do it. It dates back to 337 AD and has enticed a steady stream of tourists/pilgrims since.
At 1:30 AM, we gathered to start the climb up Mt. Moses: my notes read: will try for Mt. Moses with little expectation of reaching the top. I was a good predictor. By the time I had reached the final steps. the choice was climbing to the top and missing the sunrise, or going out on one of the cliffs and enjoying the sunrise. I chose the latter. But coming down, I was for once, no longer last!
That afternoon, all but me went on a three hour trek, reportedly was rough going at first but lovely, once the the climb was over. I hung about the camp, walked down to St. Catherine’s Village and did some hiking about the area. I enjoyed the solitary time.
We stayed in fixed camps for all but the beginning and ending nights. They were for tourists,with Western toilets -- even if superimposed on a pit - and toilet paper. Tents were used by four of us; the rest settled for sleeping bags only, except at Fox Camp, where there was an open air but covered area available along with rooms - five opted for rooms. Along with some of our Bedu helpers. I was - and am - committed to outside sleeping - watching the universe above is an exhilarating experience.
So it was back to Cairo, with a stop at the Red Sea for the swimmers. Seven check points with only one doing a pro forma passport check. And the following day, I moved to a 4* hotel in another part of Giza, far from the Pyramids. A part of Giza where goats, sheep and cows lived next to Toyotas and coffe houses. Where I ws able to walk down back streets and find the old Cairo I loved. Where village life continued. Where donkey and horse carts mixed with automobile traffic. Even on the freeways!
This was an Explore group of thirteen: two Danes and me were the non Brits. This tour involved travel by bus and 4x4, into the El Alamein area of WW2, down into Siwa where we moved into the Great Sand Sea and then, the White desert. Five nights in a hotel, including two in Cairo (I missed out on one of those, being at the airport, catching a flight home!) and three nights rough camping.
The beat-up tanks - and one crashed Spitfire - at the El Alamein Museum were of interest to me, for I remember media accounts of the desert battles. There was a ringer: a Sherman tank, left over from the Israeli conflict. The Museum divided artifacts into British, German, Italian and Egyptian sections, giving equal space to all sides in that conflict. We did wander about the immaculately kept British Cemetery but weren’t able to get into General Rommel’s cave.
Moving on, we were at Siwa for several days. I knew of the Sanusi via Russell McGuirk’s writing on The Sanusi’s Little War, when they were opposed to the Brits in WW1. So the historical implications of that area seriously interested me. Some bicycled to visit the Oracle of Amun and ancient Shalli - I and others rode a donkey cart instead. My bicycling skills are doubtful at best. I walked about the town a bit, trying to get a feel of the conservative place where women were totally covered.
Collecting an Army officer to provide security, we t went into the desert, driving into sand dunes where the 4x4 drivers thrilled passengers with charges up and down the steep dunes. It was much like The Wahiba Sands in Oman. Camped the night at Bahrein Oasis. Continuing on the Great San Sea to Ain Della, now a Egyptian Army outpost, but in its day, the WW2 base for the Long Range Desert Group, And earlier, the last known location of the Lost Army of Cambyses, an long lost Persian Army circa 514 BC.
There was a brisk wind that night so I found myself covered with sand - despite all efforts to shake it off, I ‘m still shedding.
Heading into the White desert, marked by surreal chalky eruptions throughout, very other worldly. There was a stop at touristy hot springs - though no tourists there. Then dropped off our Army guy as we were leaving his territory. Up early for a long drive back to Cairo, stopping enroute to visit the Golden Mummies at Bahariaya Oasis. A final dinner in Cairo for the group and I was gone - off to the airport and home. courtesy KLM., and I do recommend them.
Comparing the tours: The first one was an active, experiential one that I was lucky to survive, while the second one was more passive - sightseeing and photographing were the main activities. Leaders, assistants, drivers and cooks with both groups were excellent, particularly the group leader with the Sinai group, who nursed me along the treks.
Exodus provided water; we paid for our own water with Explore. Both are small group, British budget tours, very ecologically conscious.
Exodus tour cost $810 less $39.50 discount for past travel. Explore charged $1150 less 57.50 discount for past travel. Airfare (Air France/KLM) booked through Adventure Center: $1500. Most meals were included.
The hotels on the road, used by Explore were very comfortable resort hotels but few tourists about. For a country so dependent on the tourist industry, Egypt was hurting as a result of Arab Spring, though I saw nothing either in or out of Cairo that should deter anyone from traveling there.
I once said I would really take a serious look at my travels if I reached a point of being the last man moving. Which means I’d best read very thoroughly descriptions for anything labelled “trek”. And realize that much as I’d like to do it, there is a limit to my physical capabilities. Damn!
I was last in Egypt in 2000, my first - and certainly, not my last - visit to a Muslim country. I spent time in Cairo: stayed in the Dokki area, charged across Tahir Square from the Nile Hilton to the American University to visit their bookstore, went to the Symphony performances, did the Museum, wandered about Old Cairo and saw The Pyramids. Somehow, squeezed in a day in Alexandria, a trip out to the Sinai, and the Nile cruise to Aswan with the usual stop overs at various archaeological sites. A day at Aswan and a flight to Abu Simbel completed the trip. Became friends with a New Yorker, handling her mid-life crisis by taking a year off to backpack around the world - marvelous writer who could have easily gotten her trip-notes published. We’re still in contact.
A year and a half ago, when I read Alex Berenson’s description of his protagonist's, John Wells’, reentry into Cairo in The Midnight House, I knew I had to return. If not to Cairo per se, at least to Egypt. Originally, this was to be a Western Desert-Libyan camping trip but that crashed with the Libyan Revolt. So a Western Desert week was combined with an earlier week in the Sinai - a trip I had put off for I wasn’t sure how I’d manage the Mt. Moses climb - I am an ok recreational hiker but I’m not, and never have been, a serious trekker or climber.
The Sinai trek was an Exodus tour: twelve of us - seven Brits, 2 Canadians, mother-daughter Serbians, and me, the lone American. All younger and all up to the task of scaling the walls of the Wadis. No matter what my efforts, I was dead last in both climbs and descents. It was beautiful country, but sandy, rocky and well sprinkled with boulders. Not much of a path. Sandstone hills and the mountains? Breathtaking, particularly in evenings. Granted at times, it was hard to appreciate the surrounding beauty when one’s energies were spent remaining upright while moving from handhold to toehold in rocks and boulders.
We started in a 5* hotel in Giza in sight of the Pyramids. But then a drive to Southern Sinai where we we walked into our camp in the Jebel Sarabit area, prepared to climb up to climb up to the top the next morning, to explore the ancient Egyptian temple of Hathor and check out some Pharonic era turquoise mines. Then via 4x4s, a stop at the Forest of Pillars before arriving at the camp site at Wadi Jebal. The next day was trekking to Wadi Tellah, where it was so isolated that camels carried our stuff. Enroute, we visited a local school - coeducational with male teachers. We continued on, eating lunches on the move - I managed to lose mine down on wadi or another. I declined an offer for an extra added climb ending in featuring a water hole for the swimmers. Turned out, no water hole and it was almost dark as that bunch felt their way down to the camp.
The following day, we clambered out of the Wadi and to Fox Camp and St. Catherine’s Monastery. The church/ monastery was golden and glorious as only the Greek Orthodox can do it. It dates back to 337 AD and has enticed a steady stream of tourists/pilgrims since.
At 1:30 AM, we gathered to start the climb up Mt. Moses: my notes read: will try for Mt. Moses with little expectation of reaching the top. I was a good predictor. By the time I had reached the final steps. the choice was climbing to the top and missing the sunrise, or going out on one of the cliffs and enjoying the sunrise. I chose the latter. But coming down, I was for once, no longer last!
That afternoon, all but me went on a three hour trek, reportedly was rough going at first but lovely, once the the climb was over. I hung about the camp, walked down to St. Catherine’s Village and did some hiking about the area. I enjoyed the solitary time.
We stayed in fixed camps for all but the beginning and ending nights. They were for tourists,with Western toilets -- even if superimposed on a pit - and toilet paper. Tents were used by four of us; the rest settled for sleeping bags only, except at Fox Camp, where there was an open air but covered area available along with rooms - five opted for rooms. Along with some of our Bedu helpers. I was - and am - committed to outside sleeping - watching the universe above is an exhilarating experience.
So it was back to Cairo, with a stop at the Red Sea for the swimmers. Seven check points with only one doing a pro forma passport check. And the following day, I moved to a 4* hotel in another part of Giza, far from the Pyramids. A part of Giza where goats, sheep and cows lived next to Toyotas and coffe houses. Where I ws able to walk down back streets and find the old Cairo I loved. Where village life continued. Where donkey and horse carts mixed with automobile traffic. Even on the freeways!
This was an Explore group of thirteen: two Danes and me were the non Brits. This tour involved travel by bus and 4x4, into the El Alamein area of WW2, down into Siwa where we moved into the Great Sand Sea and then, the White desert. Five nights in a hotel, including two in Cairo (I missed out on one of those, being at the airport, catching a flight home!) and three nights rough camping.
The beat-up tanks - and one crashed Spitfire - at the El Alamein Museum were of interest to me, for I remember media accounts of the desert battles. There was a ringer: a Sherman tank, left over from the Israeli conflict. The Museum divided artifacts into British, German, Italian and Egyptian sections, giving equal space to all sides in that conflict. We did wander about the immaculately kept British Cemetery but weren’t able to get into General Rommel’s cave.
Moving on, we were at Siwa for several days. I knew of the Sanusi via Russell McGuirk’s writing on The Sanusi’s Little War, when they were opposed to the Brits in WW1. So the historical implications of that area seriously interested me. Some bicycled to visit the Oracle of Amun and ancient Shalli - I and others rode a donkey cart instead. My bicycling skills are doubtful at best. I walked about the town a bit, trying to get a feel of the conservative place where women were totally covered.
Collecting an Army officer to provide security, we t went into the desert, driving into sand dunes where the 4x4 drivers thrilled passengers with charges up and down the steep dunes. It was much like The Wahiba Sands in Oman. Camped the night at Bahrein Oasis. Continuing on the Great San Sea to Ain Della, now a Egyptian Army outpost, but in its day, the WW2 base for the Long Range Desert Group, And earlier, the last known location of the Lost Army of Cambyses, an long lost Persian Army circa 514 BC.
There was a brisk wind that night so I found myself covered with sand - despite all efforts to shake it off, I ‘m still shedding.
Heading into the White desert, marked by surreal chalky eruptions throughout, very other worldly. There was a stop at touristy hot springs - though no tourists there. Then dropped off our Army guy as we were leaving his territory. Up early for a long drive back to Cairo, stopping enroute to visit the Golden Mummies at Bahariaya Oasis. A final dinner in Cairo for the group and I was gone - off to the airport and home. courtesy KLM., and I do recommend them.
Comparing the tours: The first one was an active, experiential one that I was lucky to survive, while the second one was more passive - sightseeing and photographing were the main activities. Leaders, assistants, drivers and cooks with both groups were excellent, particularly the group leader with the Sinai group, who nursed me along the treks.
Exodus provided water; we paid for our own water with Explore. Both are small group, British budget tours, very ecologically conscious.
Exodus tour cost $810 less $39.50 discount for past travel. Explore charged $1150 less 57.50 discount for past travel. Airfare (Air France/KLM) booked through Adventure Center: $1500. Most meals were included.
The hotels on the road, used by Explore were very comfortable resort hotels but few tourists about. For a country so dependent on the tourist industry, Egypt was hurting as a result of Arab Spring, though I saw nothing either in or out of Cairo that should deter anyone from traveling there.
I once said I would really take a serious look at my travels if I reached a point of being the last man moving. Which means I’d best read very thoroughly descriptions for anything labelled “trek”. And realize that much as I’d like to do it, there is a limit to my physical capabilities. Damn!
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