I missed out on the February Pakistan trip: visas
for US citizens required a personal interview and their nearest offices
were in Los Angeles. So cancelled out. And thus on to Iran with
Political Tours. (Ironically, got the Iranian visa via the Pakistan
embassy in Washington DC through my visa service with little hassle.)
I had been in Iran for ten days in May 2005, visiting Tehran, Shiraz,
Persepolis, Yazd and Esfahan. This had been a budget, sightseeing tour
which I greatly enjoyed. So PT's ten days in Isfahan (same as Esfahan),
Shahrekord, Qom and Tehran was tempting, particularly given their
approach to travel - essentially an inquiry into the political and
economic scene. More interesting given the easing of sanctions imposed
by the West. I remembered the friendliness and courtesy of the
Iranians. But necessarily had seen it through the eyes of our guide, a
professional class young man who was an IT man who avoided serving in
the Iraq-Iran war. But who was knowledgeable about the history, current
and ancient, of his country.. But still, a sight seeing tour. Though a
good one.
So going with Nicholas Woods' group was cutting through the frosting and
into the cake. Guiding us was Christopher de Bellaigne, author and
Iranian expert extraordinaire. There was also a local guide plus Nick
and Karen, his wife. Top notch! We were a gang of nine: mostly from
the UK, but myself, two Australians and a Russian to flavor the mix.
Several retired. Backgrounds were varied: business, academic,
linguist, criminal justice, NGO. All were serious travelers.
We started in that most lovely of cities, Isfahan, Easy evening, walking
about town, getting oriented and acquainted for the next day we took
off via private bus to Shahrekord (Shahr-e Kord per Lonely Planet and
Wikipedia) where we spend time visiting two businesses: an appliance
factory and a cement firm. Both had survived sanctions by business
domestically and with Iraq, Turkey and China.
The owner of the appliance business had an MBA from the US and had his
son following the same path. Wandering about the factory, I found it
noisy and dusty, somewhat automated but without safety features
required in the US. Updating it would disemploy a number of workers -
always, the unintended consequences. The cement firm was neater: a
gardener was working outside the main office, we were issued hat hats
and safety vests; followed by an ambulance as we were escorted around.
Immaculate, considering the product. Seemed more up to date than the
appliance factory.
Returning to Isfahan, we stopped at a village, Yaseh Chah (I think).
Wandered about crumbling homes which hopefully will be restored as a
model village for tourist viewing. We had tea with a village elder and
picnic lunch along the river back of his home. Interestingly, the men
of the house met with us with woman seen only upstairs as we left.
One of the most memorable experiences was at the martyrs cemetery,
where soldiers who had fought in the Iran-Iraq war (a big deal to the
True Believers) were buried. Several of our group chatted briefly with
a brother of one of the buried as a covey of grade school girls came
by led by several adult women, chanting "Death to America"! When I was
identified to them as American, there were apologies and assurances by
both the supervising Imman and the woman in charge that this was not
directed at me, personally. Subsequently, the girls - and our group -
were presented with faux medals by Revolutionary Guards, picturing one
of the heroes of the war. Apparently, this is a yearly excursion for
the girls; boys have the same opportunity, just not with the girls.
The contrast to this was time spent at a Music Museum of Iranian
Instruments. Not only did we see the various instruments, but were
treated to a concert by the two owners. They discounted my earlier
experience at the cemetery, saying things were changing. At one point
music was forbidden and now there were numerous studios and teachers.
This experience certainly balanced the earlier experience. The other
side of the coin.
We did make a stop at the Armenian Church which reminded me that Iran
hosts a number of people of varying religions including the largest
number of Jews outside Israel. We also spent an evening observing a
Zurkhaneh session, an ancient, aerobic men's exercise routine with
drumming and chanting - this was not as good as I remembered from
before.
There is always Naqsh-e Jahan (Eman Khomeini) Square, the UNESCO world
heritage site, a magnificent place featuring the gloriously tiled Jamen
Mosque. Shops and restaurants are in the buildings surrounding the
square. Horse driven carriages are available for rides about the area.
It is a central point for the city. And we did some wandering about
Isfahan: I remember lovely bridges across the river. And a jump across I
didn't try.
On to Qom, the religious capital of the country. and the meeting with
the mullahs. The first we met by chance, on the street, a rather
cheerful man from Pakistan; he had been here for ten years, returning
home come Ramadan.
Another with whom we had a scheduled appointment, saw himself as quite
liberal, willing to see changes in the penalties for not wearing the
hejab - which all women were required to wear, . Moslem or no. He
still retained the "company" view when it came to the international
scene though he explained there were even more "traditional" thinking
among the religious.
When we visited what I assume was the Hazrat-e Masumeh, burial place of
Fatemeh, there was a funeral of some six Afghans who had been killed in
Syria, fighting ISIS. The women of tour group were loaned oversized
flowered figured abelas so we could accompany the males into a meeting
with another, and more conservative, Imman.
Then to the smog and traffic of Tehran, with its convoluted and
uncompleted freeways. We visited Laleh, a private hospital. Doctors
often work at both the public and private facilities, Care varies
greatly. with IAMAT not listing Iran. But worth mentioning or no:
male docs are the only males who still wear ties - apparently they were
discarded following the Revolution. Out with the ties and on with the
hejab!
In the park area in northern Tehran, two of us met a lady who was
determined we come home with her for lunch. And there is another man
who discounted the clerics and determinedly shook my hand, not common
between men and women. At an art gallery/cafe, off an alley, , I ran
into several from California.
There were several meetings with business people. One problem is the
transfer of monies via the banking system, which may explain why credit
cards are not used - or it may be the Islamic attitude toward usury.
These representatives were hopeful problems could be resolved. While it
appeared they had done well, the businessmen thought the lifting in
sanctions would see them more active in the world markets. Tourism was a
plus.
One of the high points, for me, was the visit to the girls' school. An
exclusive private facility, it provided about everything for the
students: Besides the basics (including computers from China), music,
dance, swimming, ice skating - you name it. The students were highly
motivated: medicine, dentistry, engineering, architecture were some of
their goals.
Then there was the time at the newspaper office with a glimpse into the
newsroom. Apparently, the budget balanced with the printing of
books. The editor, who was secular, apparently is secondary to the
advisor, a cleric. Anything like Investigative Journalism is non
existent. As our New York Times guy found out.
One evening was spent with the family of our Iranian tour manager. She
and her husband had a large apartment - the living-dining room was
larger than my entire apartment . But living with them are members of
her husband's family, including the patriarch, suffering from MS. Most
all spoke English and were most hospitable.
We did the tour of the Shah's palaces. Been there, done that! Yes, he
lived high. I do wish we could have checked out the former US Embassy
but that wasn't possible. I skipped the bazaar.
Most Unforgettable: 1. The student-interpreter at the girls' school
who was so facile in English with great body movements, I thought she
had lived overseas. I was assured she had learned her English via
television and film. She hoped to be a politician so she could help
people. 2. The suave Iranian, now a Swedish national, who worked out
of Dubai that I chatted with in the Tehran hotel lobby. We talked of
the layers one must go through to understand Iran and Iranians. 3. My
fellow traveler, a former British government executive, who asked the
most interesting and hard questions.
Difference between then and now: Ten years ago, the people I talked
with were at beat, middle class: shopkeepers and those staying at our
modest hotels. This time, we were often talking with some of the movers
and shakers. I saw a more prosperous bit of Iran though there was an
effort for us to see and chat with average citizens. Lots of new
buildings and buildings in progress, the latter a result of the
sanctions? Also, there was loosening of the women's dress code - some
color along with the prescribed black and hair showing. There was no
change in the friendliness and hospitality of the Iranians. We were
offered tea and pastries at almost every meeting.
Accommodations: From a three star in Shakrekord to four star Abbasi in
Isfahan (a remarkable hotel based on an old caravanserai) to the would
be five star Espinas in Tehran. All excellent and way above my usual.
They provided great people watching, particularly checking out the
Western women's efforts to adhere to the Iranian dress code.
Food: Great. Ranging from the pizza parlor to a picnic to lying on a bed while eating. Good food; good restaurants.
Cost: Political Tours: $5204 inclusive. Turkish Airlines: $964 (very
good except for long layover in Istanbul) . Tips and gifts: $250.
Impression: Christopher
talked of the duality. The Iranian-Swede talked of the layers. What
you see is not necessarily what you get. The ultimate authority is
religious and while they have softened some as the secular pushed to
move ahead and reengage the west. Rather than have another
demonstration, the Mullahs loosened the apron strings. But I suspect
some would be delighted if the West, ie the US, gave them any excuse to
pull back. One of the unintended consequences of the sanctions is that
the Iranians found they could survive in an alternate world, sans the
West. So they don't feel in a one-down position vis a vis the West.
What would be interesting is if the US ceases to be their Number One
Enemy - what that would do to the religious' power! It's a love-hate
relationship with the US, depending on who is speaking. Europe seems to
be more active in entering the Iranian market, sans sanctions.. Little
was asked or said about Hezbollah, allegedly sanctioned/supported by
the religious sector.
Regardless, it is a lovely place to visit, it is safe, the people are friendly and they do want tourists.
