Wadi Mousa Jordan:
This was my fourth year with the Great Arab Revolt
Project: looking for artifacts from WW1, tracing
the activities of the Arabs versus the Ottoman.
Noted for the involvement of TE Lawrence, many military
professionals were active in supporting the Arab.
In reality, the Brits were actively sponsoring the
Arab effort - with munitions and money! And following
their own political goals.
I became interested after hearing Neil Faulkner, the
co-director of the project, speak at a TE Lawrence
symposium at Oxford some years ago. I have continued
an involvement as I enjoy being part of a historical
adventure: finding bits and pieces that prove/disprove
various theories.
I look forward to each year's expedition and have convinced
several fellow travelers into participating. I think it
important to bring past into present. I like the historical
and philosophical approach of conflict archaeology. As
I trowel, dig and sieve, I feel closeness with those
figures of the past. It keeps me going as I lug goofer
after goofer of sand, rock and dirt of the spoils heap.
We had seven working days, several orientations and two
days off - trips to Petra and Aqaba (though a few went
to the Copper Mines and Wadi Rum, instead). It was a
combination of volunteers and professionals: Brits,
Canadians, an Australian, an Austrian, Americans, a
Jordanian, a Swiss - some returnees and some newbies.
All ages and backgrounds. Over the two weeks, we blended
into cooperative teams.
We started with a quick trip to Little Petra, then the
ruins and of ancient village and finally, a wreck of a
castle walking distance to the hotel. The next day, was
a visit to Year #2's project at Ma'an, to see the restored
railroad station and Abdullah's palace - which could be
a tourist site but the museum's door was locked - only a
mangy looking policeman about to keep out strays.
Then off to climb one of the many hills, covered with sharp
black volcanic rocks - where I managed to crash into a
trench and do a nice job of banging up shoulder, hip and
knee. I managed to carry on with minimum aches and pains
but it wasn't the best of ways to begin.
Though we were scheduled to work about Abu al Lissan, the
site of the major battle between Hashemites and Ottomans,
it was not possible as there were problems with permissions.
So we ended at Ghadir ed Haz, a building blown up by Arabs
and mentions in Seven Pillars of Wisdom, our bible for
much of the work. From there we went onto Birds Nest Camp
where we worked on tent rings for several days. Not my
favorite assignment!
En route to a new assignment, there was a stop to see the
Japanese made facsimile of the Hejaz RR engine, now used
to transport tourists on a Aqaba-Wadi Rum run. I worked
several days at what was called the Square Fort, with a
day at Petra in between. And Petra, even after three
visits, continues as awesome as ever with a fair amount
of tourists, even in the off season.
The next move was to Sidden's Ridge Camp - named in honor
of the WW1 RFC pilot who mapped the area. Four of us
clogged through a never ending mound of sand, to clear
what appeared to be some redoubt. The only blessing was
that we didn't have to sieve. Along the way, there was a
visit to Udrudh, ancient ruins from several earlier
civilizations. And time to visit digs of years past:
from Wadi Rum to Fassu'ah Ridge, where I worked the
first year with GARP.
While I didn't find anything, others were more successful.
Not only did we come up with WW1 artifacts, but there
was a Roman coin and some probable neolithic items,
which went to the sponsoring Jordanian University.
The final day was spent at Aqaba - looking at those working
at the Aylah Project next to an old Mosque site. I then
wandered happily about the Old City, into the Fort and
next door Museum where the antiques were beautifully
presented. Fascinating city, Aqaba - at the apex of
Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and Israel. There was a lot
of new building, but the Old City remains satisfying.
For me, there is nothing as rewarding as a working holiday,
a feeling of contribution. Not that I was discomforted.
I stayed at a 3* hotel, albeit a room with no heat, regular
meals and internet capability. I worked with a dedicated
and interesting group. I was in the Middle East, one of
my favorite areas. What more could one want?
BA was good to me coming home. Upgraded me to Econ+ and
the seat next to was empty. That almost made up for the
overnight at LHR's Terminal 1, Gate 2. Arrived home with 6 dinars and a Dollar - which went for bus fare.
Costs: Airfare SFO-LHR: $955.97. GARP inclusive airfare from LHR, room and board: $3835.
Thursday, December 1, 2011
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Sinai-Western Desert: October 2011
I was last in Egypt in 2000, my first - and certainly, not my last - visit to a Muslim country. I spent time in Cairo: stayed in the Dokki area, charged across Tahir Square from the Nile Hilton to the American University to visit their bookstore, went to the Symphony performances, did the Museum, wandered about Old Cairo and saw The Pyramids. Somehow, squeezed in a day in Alexandria, a trip out to the Sinai, and the Nile cruise to Aswan with the usual stop overs at various archaeological sites. A day at Aswan and a flight to Abu Simbel completed the trip. Became friends with a New Yorker, handling her mid-life crisis by taking a year off to backpack around the world - marvelous writer who could have easily gotten her trip-notes published. We’re still in contact.
A year and a half ago, when I read Alex Berenson’s description of his protagonist's, John Wells’, reentry into Cairo in The Midnight House, I knew I had to return. If not to Cairo per se, at least to Egypt. Originally, this was to be a Western Desert-Libyan camping trip but that crashed with the Libyan Revolt. So a Western Desert week was combined with an earlier week in the Sinai - a trip I had put off for I wasn’t sure how I’d manage the Mt. Moses climb - I am an ok recreational hiker but I’m not, and never have been, a serious trekker or climber.
The Sinai trek was an Exodus tour: twelve of us - seven Brits, 2 Canadians, mother-daughter Serbians, and me, the lone American. All younger and all up to the task of scaling the walls of the Wadis. No matter what my efforts, I was dead last in both climbs and descents. It was beautiful country, but sandy, rocky and well sprinkled with boulders. Not much of a path. Sandstone hills and the mountains? Breathtaking, particularly in evenings. Granted at times, it was hard to appreciate the surrounding beauty when one’s energies were spent remaining upright while moving from handhold to toehold in rocks and boulders.
We started in a 5* hotel in Giza in sight of the Pyramids. But then a drive to Southern Sinai where we we walked into our camp in the Jebel Sarabit area, prepared to climb up to climb up to the top the next morning, to explore the ancient Egyptian temple of Hathor and check out some Pharonic era turquoise mines. Then via 4x4s, a stop at the Forest of Pillars before arriving at the camp site at Wadi Jebal. The next day was trekking to Wadi Tellah, where it was so isolated that camels carried our stuff. Enroute, we visited a local school - coeducational with male teachers. We continued on, eating lunches on the move - I managed to lose mine down on wadi or another. I declined an offer for an extra added climb ending in featuring a water hole for the swimmers. Turned out, no water hole and it was almost dark as that bunch felt their way down to the camp.
The following day, we clambered out of the Wadi and to Fox Camp and St. Catherine’s Monastery. The church/ monastery was golden and glorious as only the Greek Orthodox can do it. It dates back to 337 AD and has enticed a steady stream of tourists/pilgrims since.
At 1:30 AM, we gathered to start the climb up Mt. Moses: my notes read: will try for Mt. Moses with little expectation of reaching the top. I was a good predictor. By the time I had reached the final steps. the choice was climbing to the top and missing the sunrise, or going out on one of the cliffs and enjoying the sunrise. I chose the latter. But coming down, I was for once, no longer last!
That afternoon, all but me went on a three hour trek, reportedly was rough going at first but lovely, once the the climb was over. I hung about the camp, walked down to St. Catherine’s Village and did some hiking about the area. I enjoyed the solitary time.
We stayed in fixed camps for all but the beginning and ending nights. They were for tourists,with Western toilets -- even if superimposed on a pit - and toilet paper. Tents were used by four of us; the rest settled for sleeping bags only, except at Fox Camp, where there was an open air but covered area available along with rooms - five opted for rooms. Along with some of our Bedu helpers. I was - and am - committed to outside sleeping - watching the universe above is an exhilarating experience.
So it was back to Cairo, with a stop at the Red Sea for the swimmers. Seven check points with only one doing a pro forma passport check. And the following day, I moved to a 4* hotel in another part of Giza, far from the Pyramids. A part of Giza where goats, sheep and cows lived next to Toyotas and coffe houses. Where I ws able to walk down back streets and find the old Cairo I loved. Where village life continued. Where donkey and horse carts mixed with automobile traffic. Even on the freeways!
This was an Explore group of thirteen: two Danes and me were the non Brits. This tour involved travel by bus and 4x4, into the El Alamein area of WW2, down into Siwa where we moved into the Great Sand Sea and then, the White desert. Five nights in a hotel, including two in Cairo (I missed out on one of those, being at the airport, catching a flight home!) and three nights rough camping.
The beat-up tanks - and one crashed Spitfire - at the El Alamein Museum were of interest to me, for I remember media accounts of the desert battles. There was a ringer: a Sherman tank, left over from the Israeli conflict. The Museum divided artifacts into British, German, Italian and Egyptian sections, giving equal space to all sides in that conflict. We did wander about the immaculately kept British Cemetery but weren’t able to get into General Rommel’s cave.
Moving on, we were at Siwa for several days. I knew of the Sanusi via Russell McGuirk’s writing on The Sanusi’s Little War, when they were opposed to the Brits in WW1. So the historical implications of that area seriously interested me. Some bicycled to visit the Oracle of Amun and ancient Shalli - I and others rode a donkey cart instead. My bicycling skills are doubtful at best. I walked about the town a bit, trying to get a feel of the conservative place where women were totally covered.
Collecting an Army officer to provide security, we t went into the desert, driving into sand dunes where the 4x4 drivers thrilled passengers with charges up and down the steep dunes. It was much like The Wahiba Sands in Oman. Camped the night at Bahrein Oasis. Continuing on the Great San Sea to Ain Della, now a Egyptian Army outpost, but in its day, the WW2 base for the Long Range Desert Group, And earlier, the last known location of the Lost Army of Cambyses, an long lost Persian Army circa 514 BC.
There was a brisk wind that night so I found myself covered with sand - despite all efforts to shake it off, I ‘m still shedding.
Heading into the White desert, marked by surreal chalky eruptions throughout, very other worldly. There was a stop at touristy hot springs - though no tourists there. Then dropped off our Army guy as we were leaving his territory. Up early for a long drive back to Cairo, stopping enroute to visit the Golden Mummies at Bahariaya Oasis. A final dinner in Cairo for the group and I was gone - off to the airport and home. courtesy KLM., and I do recommend them.
Comparing the tours: The first one was an active, experiential one that I was lucky to survive, while the second one was more passive - sightseeing and photographing were the main activities. Leaders, assistants, drivers and cooks with both groups were excellent, particularly the group leader with the Sinai group, who nursed me along the treks.
Exodus provided water; we paid for our own water with Explore. Both are small group, British budget tours, very ecologically conscious.
Exodus tour cost $810 less $39.50 discount for past travel. Explore charged $1150 less 57.50 discount for past travel. Airfare (Air France/KLM) booked through Adventure Center: $1500. Most meals were included.
The hotels on the road, used by Explore were very comfortable resort hotels but few tourists about. For a country so dependent on the tourist industry, Egypt was hurting as a result of Arab Spring, though I saw nothing either in or out of Cairo that should deter anyone from traveling there.
I once said I would really take a serious look at my travels if I reached a point of being the last man moving. Which means I’d best read very thoroughly descriptions for anything labelled “trek”. And realize that much as I’d like to do it, there is a limit to my physical capabilities. Damn!
I was last in Egypt in 2000, my first - and certainly, not my last - visit to a Muslim country. I spent time in Cairo: stayed in the Dokki area, charged across Tahir Square from the Nile Hilton to the American University to visit their bookstore, went to the Symphony performances, did the Museum, wandered about Old Cairo and saw The Pyramids. Somehow, squeezed in a day in Alexandria, a trip out to the Sinai, and the Nile cruise to Aswan with the usual stop overs at various archaeological sites. A day at Aswan and a flight to Abu Simbel completed the trip. Became friends with a New Yorker, handling her mid-life crisis by taking a year off to backpack around the world - marvelous writer who could have easily gotten her trip-notes published. We’re still in contact.
A year and a half ago, when I read Alex Berenson’s description of his protagonist's, John Wells’, reentry into Cairo in The Midnight House, I knew I had to return. If not to Cairo per se, at least to Egypt. Originally, this was to be a Western Desert-Libyan camping trip but that crashed with the Libyan Revolt. So a Western Desert week was combined with an earlier week in the Sinai - a trip I had put off for I wasn’t sure how I’d manage the Mt. Moses climb - I am an ok recreational hiker but I’m not, and never have been, a serious trekker or climber.
The Sinai trek was an Exodus tour: twelve of us - seven Brits, 2 Canadians, mother-daughter Serbians, and me, the lone American. All younger and all up to the task of scaling the walls of the Wadis. No matter what my efforts, I was dead last in both climbs and descents. It was beautiful country, but sandy, rocky and well sprinkled with boulders. Not much of a path. Sandstone hills and the mountains? Breathtaking, particularly in evenings. Granted at times, it was hard to appreciate the surrounding beauty when one’s energies were spent remaining upright while moving from handhold to toehold in rocks and boulders.
We started in a 5* hotel in Giza in sight of the Pyramids. But then a drive to Southern Sinai where we we walked into our camp in the Jebel Sarabit area, prepared to climb up to climb up to the top the next morning, to explore the ancient Egyptian temple of Hathor and check out some Pharonic era turquoise mines. Then via 4x4s, a stop at the Forest of Pillars before arriving at the camp site at Wadi Jebal. The next day was trekking to Wadi Tellah, where it was so isolated that camels carried our stuff. Enroute, we visited a local school - coeducational with male teachers. We continued on, eating lunches on the move - I managed to lose mine down on wadi or another. I declined an offer for an extra added climb ending in featuring a water hole for the swimmers. Turned out, no water hole and it was almost dark as that bunch felt their way down to the camp.
The following day, we clambered out of the Wadi and to Fox Camp and St. Catherine’s Monastery. The church/ monastery was golden and glorious as only the Greek Orthodox can do it. It dates back to 337 AD and has enticed a steady stream of tourists/pilgrims since.
At 1:30 AM, we gathered to start the climb up Mt. Moses: my notes read: will try for Mt. Moses with little expectation of reaching the top. I was a good predictor. By the time I had reached the final steps. the choice was climbing to the top and missing the sunrise, or going out on one of the cliffs and enjoying the sunrise. I chose the latter. But coming down, I was for once, no longer last!
That afternoon, all but me went on a three hour trek, reportedly was rough going at first but lovely, once the the climb was over. I hung about the camp, walked down to St. Catherine’s Village and did some hiking about the area. I enjoyed the solitary time.
We stayed in fixed camps for all but the beginning and ending nights. They were for tourists,with Western toilets -- even if superimposed on a pit - and toilet paper. Tents were used by four of us; the rest settled for sleeping bags only, except at Fox Camp, where there was an open air but covered area available along with rooms - five opted for rooms. Along with some of our Bedu helpers. I was - and am - committed to outside sleeping - watching the universe above is an exhilarating experience.
So it was back to Cairo, with a stop at the Red Sea for the swimmers. Seven check points with only one doing a pro forma passport check. And the following day, I moved to a 4* hotel in another part of Giza, far from the Pyramids. A part of Giza where goats, sheep and cows lived next to Toyotas and coffe houses. Where I ws able to walk down back streets and find the old Cairo I loved. Where village life continued. Where donkey and horse carts mixed with automobile traffic. Even on the freeways!
This was an Explore group of thirteen: two Danes and me were the non Brits. This tour involved travel by bus and 4x4, into the El Alamein area of WW2, down into Siwa where we moved into the Great Sand Sea and then, the White desert. Five nights in a hotel, including two in Cairo (I missed out on one of those, being at the airport, catching a flight home!) and three nights rough camping.
The beat-up tanks - and one crashed Spitfire - at the El Alamein Museum were of interest to me, for I remember media accounts of the desert battles. There was a ringer: a Sherman tank, left over from the Israeli conflict. The Museum divided artifacts into British, German, Italian and Egyptian sections, giving equal space to all sides in that conflict. We did wander about the immaculately kept British Cemetery but weren’t able to get into General Rommel’s cave.
Moving on, we were at Siwa for several days. I knew of the Sanusi via Russell McGuirk’s writing on The Sanusi’s Little War, when they were opposed to the Brits in WW1. So the historical implications of that area seriously interested me. Some bicycled to visit the Oracle of Amun and ancient Shalli - I and others rode a donkey cart instead. My bicycling skills are doubtful at best. I walked about the town a bit, trying to get a feel of the conservative place where women were totally covered.
Collecting an Army officer to provide security, we t went into the desert, driving into sand dunes where the 4x4 drivers thrilled passengers with charges up and down the steep dunes. It was much like The Wahiba Sands in Oman. Camped the night at Bahrein Oasis. Continuing on the Great San Sea to Ain Della, now a Egyptian Army outpost, but in its day, the WW2 base for the Long Range Desert Group, And earlier, the last known location of the Lost Army of Cambyses, an long lost Persian Army circa 514 BC.
There was a brisk wind that night so I found myself covered with sand - despite all efforts to shake it off, I ‘m still shedding.
Heading into the White desert, marked by surreal chalky eruptions throughout, very other worldly. There was a stop at touristy hot springs - though no tourists there. Then dropped off our Army guy as we were leaving his territory. Up early for a long drive back to Cairo, stopping enroute to visit the Golden Mummies at Bahariaya Oasis. A final dinner in Cairo for the group and I was gone - off to the airport and home. courtesy KLM., and I do recommend them.
Comparing the tours: The first one was an active, experiential one that I was lucky to survive, while the second one was more passive - sightseeing and photographing were the main activities. Leaders, assistants, drivers and cooks with both groups were excellent, particularly the group leader with the Sinai group, who nursed me along the treks.
Exodus provided water; we paid for our own water with Explore. Both are small group, British budget tours, very ecologically conscious.
Exodus tour cost $810 less $39.50 discount for past travel. Explore charged $1150 less 57.50 discount for past travel. Airfare (Air France/KLM) booked through Adventure Center: $1500. Most meals were included.
The hotels on the road, used by Explore were very comfortable resort hotels but few tourists about. For a country so dependent on the tourist industry, Egypt was hurting as a result of Arab Spring, though I saw nothing either in or out of Cairo that should deter anyone from traveling there.
I once said I would really take a serious look at my travels if I reached a point of being the last man moving. Which means I’d best read very thoroughly descriptions for anything labelled “trek”. And realize that much as I’d like to do it, there is a limit to my physical capabilities. Damn!
Am I Really up to Trekking?
Sinai-Western Desert: October 2011
I was last in Egypt in 2000, my first - and certainly, not my last - visit to a Muslim country. I spent time in Cairo: stayed in the Dokki area, charged across Tahir Square from the Nile Hilton to the American University to visit their bookstore, went to the Symphony performances, did the Museum, wandered about Old Cairo and saw The Pyramids. Somehow, squeezed in a day in Alexandria, a trip out to the Sinai, and the Nile cruise to Aswan with the usual stop overs at various archaeological sites. A day at Aswan and a flight to Abu Simbel completed the trip. Became friends with a New Yorker, handling her mid-life crisis by taking a year off to backpack around the world - marvelous writer who could have easily gotten her trip-notes published. We’re still in contact.
A year and a half ago, when I read Alex Berernson’s description of his protagonist's, John Wells’, reentry into Cairo in The Midnight House, I knew I had to return. If not to Cairo per se, at least to Egypt. Originally, this was to be a Western Desert-Libyan camping trip but that crashed with the Libyan Revolt. So a Western Desert week was combined with an earlier week in the Sinai - a trip I had put off for I wasn’t sure how I’d manage the Mt. Moses climb - I am an ok recreational hiker but I’m not, and never have been, a serious trekker or climber.
The Sinai trek was an Exodus tour: twelve of us - seven Brits, 2 Canadians, mother-daughter Serbians, and me, the lone American. All younger and all up to the task of scaling the walls of the Wadis. No matter what my efforts, I was dead last in both climbs and descents. It was beautiful country, but sandy, rocky and well sprinkled with boulders. Not much of a path. Sandstone hills and the mountains? Breathtaking, particularly in evenings. Granted at times, it was hard to appreciate the surrounding beauty when one’s energies were spent remaining upright while moving from handhold to toehold in rocks and boulders.
We started in a 5* hotel in Giza in sight of the Pyramids. But then a drive to Southern Sinai where we we walked into our camp in the Jebel Sarabit area, prepared to climb up to climb up to the top the next morning, to explore the ancient Egyptian temple of Hathor and check out some Pharonic era turquoise mines. Then via 4x4s, a stop at the Forest of Pillars before arriving at the camp site at Wadi Jebel. The next day was trekking to Wadi Tellah, where it was so isolated that camels carried our stuff. Enroute, we visited a local school - coeducational with male teachers. We continued on, eating lunches on the move - I managed to lose mine down on wadi or another. I declined an offer for an extra added climb ending in featuring a water hole for the swimmers. Turned out, no water hole and it was almost dark as that bunch felt their way down to the camp.
The following day, we clambered out of the Wadi and to Fox Camp and St. Catherine’s Monastery. The church/ monastery was golden and glorious as only the Greek Orthodox can do it. It dates back to 337 AD and has enticed a steady stream of tourists/pilgrims since.
At 1:30 AM, we gathered to start the climb up Mt. Moses: my notes read: will try for Mt. Moses with little expectation of reaching the top. I was a good predictor. By the time I had reached the final steps. the choice was climbing to the top and missing the sunrise, or going out on one of the cliffs and enjoying the sunrise. I chose the latter. But coming down, I was for once, no longer last!
That afternoon, all but me went on a three hour trek, reportedly was rough going at first but lovely, once the the climb was over. I hung about the camp, walked down to St. Catherine’s Village and did some hiking about the area. I enjoyed the solitary time.
We stayed in fixed camps for all but the beginning and ending nights. They were for tourists,with Western toilets -- even if superimposed on a pit - and toilet paper. Tents were used by four of us; the rest settled for sleeping bags only, except at Fox Camp, where there was an open air but covered area available along with rooms - five opted for rooms. Along with some of our Bedu helpers. I was - and am - committed to outside sleeping - watching the universe above is an exhilarating experience.
So it was back to Cairo, with a stop at the Red Sea for the swimmers. Seven check points with only one doing a pro forma passport check. And the following day, I moved to a 4* hotel in another part of Giza, far from the Pyramids. A part of Giza where goats, sheep and cows lived next to Toyotas and coffe houses. Where I ws able to walk down back streets and find the old Cairo I loved. Where village life continued. Where donkey and horse carts mixed with automobile traffic. Even on the freeways!
This was an Explore group of thirteen: two Danes and me were the non Brits. This tour involved travel by bus and 4x4, into the El Alamein area of WW2, down into Siwa where we moved into the Great Sand Sea and then, the White desert. Five nights in a hotel, including two in Cairo (I missed out on one of those, being at the airport, catching a flight home!) and three nights rough camping.
The beat-up tanks - and one crashed Spitfire - at the El Alamein Museum were of interest to me, for I remember media accounts of the desert battles. There was a ringer: a Sherman tank, left over from the Israeli conflict. The Museum divided artifacts into British, German, Italian and Egyptian sections, giving equal space to all sides in that conflict. We did wander about the immaculately kept British Cemetery but weren’t able to get into General Rommel’s cave.
Moving on, we were at Siwa for several days. I knew of the Sanusi via Russell McGuirk’s writing on The Sanusi’s Little War, when they were opposed to the Brits in WW1. So the historical implications of that area seriously interested me. Some bicycled to visit the Oracle of Amun and ancient Shalli - I and others rode a donkey cart instead. My bicycling skills are doubtful at best. I walked about the town a bit, trying to get a feel of the conservative place where women were totally covered.
Collecting an Army officer to provide security, we t went into the desert, driving into sand dunes where the 4x4 drivers thrilled passengers with charges up and down the steep dunes. It was much like The Wahiba Sands in Oman. Camped the night at Bahrein Oasis. Continuing on the Great San Sea to Ain Della, now a Egyptian Army outpost, but in its day, the WW2 base for the Long Range Desert Group, And earlier, the last known location of the Lost Army of Cambyses, an long lost Persian Army circa 514 BC.
There was a brisk wind that night so I found myself covered with sand - despite all efforts to shake it off, I ‘m still shedding.
Heading into the White desert, marked by surreal chalky eruptions throughout, very other worldly. There was a stop at touristy hot springs - though no tourists there. Then dropped off our Army guy as we were leaving his territory. Up early for a long drive back to Cairo, stopping enroute to visit the Golden Mummies at Bahariaya Oasis. A final dinner in Cairo for the group and I was gone - off t the airport and home. courtesy KLM., and I do recommend them.
Comparing the tours: The first one was an active, experiential one that I was lucky to survive, while the second one was more passive - sightseeing and photographing were the main activities. Leaders, assistants, drivers and cooks with both groups were excellent, particularly the group leader with the Sinai group, who nursed me along the treks.
Exodus provided water; we paid for our own water with Explore. Both are small group, British budget tours, very ecologically conscious.
Exodus tour cost $810 less $39.50 discount for past travel. Explore charged $1150 less 57.50 discount for past travel. Airfare (Air France/KLM) booked through Adventure Center: $1500. Most meals were included.
The hotels on the road, used by Explore were very comfortable resort hotels but few tourists about. For a country so dependent on the tourist industry, Egypt was hurting as a result of Arab Spring, though I saw nothing either in or out of Cairo that should deter anyone from traveling there.
I once said I would really take a serious look at my travels if I reached a point of being the last man moving. Which means I’d best read very thoroughly descriptions for anything labelled “trek”. And realize that much as I’d like to do it, there is a limit to my physical capabilities. Damn!
I was last in Egypt in 2000, my first - and certainly, not my last - visit to a Muslim country. I spent time in Cairo: stayed in the Dokki area, charged across Tahir Square from the Nile Hilton to the American University to visit their bookstore, went to the Symphony performances, did the Museum, wandered about Old Cairo and saw The Pyramids. Somehow, squeezed in a day in Alexandria, a trip out to the Sinai, and the Nile cruise to Aswan with the usual stop overs at various archaeological sites. A day at Aswan and a flight to Abu Simbel completed the trip. Became friends with a New Yorker, handling her mid-life crisis by taking a year off to backpack around the world - marvelous writer who could have easily gotten her trip-notes published. We’re still in contact.
A year and a half ago, when I read Alex Berernson’s description of his protagonist's, John Wells’, reentry into Cairo in The Midnight House, I knew I had to return. If not to Cairo per se, at least to Egypt. Originally, this was to be a Western Desert-Libyan camping trip but that crashed with the Libyan Revolt. So a Western Desert week was combined with an earlier week in the Sinai - a trip I had put off for I wasn’t sure how I’d manage the Mt. Moses climb - I am an ok recreational hiker but I’m not, and never have been, a serious trekker or climber.
The Sinai trek was an Exodus tour: twelve of us - seven Brits, 2 Canadians, mother-daughter Serbians, and me, the lone American. All younger and all up to the task of scaling the walls of the Wadis. No matter what my efforts, I was dead last in both climbs and descents. It was beautiful country, but sandy, rocky and well sprinkled with boulders. Not much of a path. Sandstone hills and the mountains? Breathtaking, particularly in evenings. Granted at times, it was hard to appreciate the surrounding beauty when one’s energies were spent remaining upright while moving from handhold to toehold in rocks and boulders.
We started in a 5* hotel in Giza in sight of the Pyramids. But then a drive to Southern Sinai where we we walked into our camp in the Jebel Sarabit area, prepared to climb up to climb up to the top the next morning, to explore the ancient Egyptian temple of Hathor and check out some Pharonic era turquoise mines. Then via 4x4s, a stop at the Forest of Pillars before arriving at the camp site at Wadi Jebel. The next day was trekking to Wadi Tellah, where it was so isolated that camels carried our stuff. Enroute, we visited a local school - coeducational with male teachers. We continued on, eating lunches on the move - I managed to lose mine down on wadi or another. I declined an offer for an extra added climb ending in featuring a water hole for the swimmers. Turned out, no water hole and it was almost dark as that bunch felt their way down to the camp.
The following day, we clambered out of the Wadi and to Fox Camp and St. Catherine’s Monastery. The church/ monastery was golden and glorious as only the Greek Orthodox can do it. It dates back to 337 AD and has enticed a steady stream of tourists/pilgrims since.
At 1:30 AM, we gathered to start the climb up Mt. Moses: my notes read: will try for Mt. Moses with little expectation of reaching the top. I was a good predictor. By the time I had reached the final steps. the choice was climbing to the top and missing the sunrise, or going out on one of the cliffs and enjoying the sunrise. I chose the latter. But coming down, I was for once, no longer last!
That afternoon, all but me went on a three hour trek, reportedly was rough going at first but lovely, once the the climb was over. I hung about the camp, walked down to St. Catherine’s Village and did some hiking about the area. I enjoyed the solitary time.
We stayed in fixed camps for all but the beginning and ending nights. They were for tourists,with Western toilets -- even if superimposed on a pit - and toilet paper. Tents were used by four of us; the rest settled for sleeping bags only, except at Fox Camp, where there was an open air but covered area available along with rooms - five opted for rooms. Along with some of our Bedu helpers. I was - and am - committed to outside sleeping - watching the universe above is an exhilarating experience.
So it was back to Cairo, with a stop at the Red Sea for the swimmers. Seven check points with only one doing a pro forma passport check. And the following day, I moved to a 4* hotel in another part of Giza, far from the Pyramids. A part of Giza where goats, sheep and cows lived next to Toyotas and coffe houses. Where I ws able to walk down back streets and find the old Cairo I loved. Where village life continued. Where donkey and horse carts mixed with automobile traffic. Even on the freeways!
This was an Explore group of thirteen: two Danes and me were the non Brits. This tour involved travel by bus and 4x4, into the El Alamein area of WW2, down into Siwa where we moved into the Great Sand Sea and then, the White desert. Five nights in a hotel, including two in Cairo (I missed out on one of those, being at the airport, catching a flight home!) and three nights rough camping.
The beat-up tanks - and one crashed Spitfire - at the El Alamein Museum were of interest to me, for I remember media accounts of the desert battles. There was a ringer: a Sherman tank, left over from the Israeli conflict. The Museum divided artifacts into British, German, Italian and Egyptian sections, giving equal space to all sides in that conflict. We did wander about the immaculately kept British Cemetery but weren’t able to get into General Rommel’s cave.
Moving on, we were at Siwa for several days. I knew of the Sanusi via Russell McGuirk’s writing on The Sanusi’s Little War, when they were opposed to the Brits in WW1. So the historical implications of that area seriously interested me. Some bicycled to visit the Oracle of Amun and ancient Shalli - I and others rode a donkey cart instead. My bicycling skills are doubtful at best. I walked about the town a bit, trying to get a feel of the conservative place where women were totally covered.
Collecting an Army officer to provide security, we t went into the desert, driving into sand dunes where the 4x4 drivers thrilled passengers with charges up and down the steep dunes. It was much like The Wahiba Sands in Oman. Camped the night at Bahrein Oasis. Continuing on the Great San Sea to Ain Della, now a Egyptian Army outpost, but in its day, the WW2 base for the Long Range Desert Group, And earlier, the last known location of the Lost Army of Cambyses, an long lost Persian Army circa 514 BC.
There was a brisk wind that night so I found myself covered with sand - despite all efforts to shake it off, I ‘m still shedding.
Heading into the White desert, marked by surreal chalky eruptions throughout, very other worldly. There was a stop at touristy hot springs - though no tourists there. Then dropped off our Army guy as we were leaving his territory. Up early for a long drive back to Cairo, stopping enroute to visit the Golden Mummies at Bahariaya Oasis. A final dinner in Cairo for the group and I was gone - off t the airport and home. courtesy KLM., and I do recommend them.
Comparing the tours: The first one was an active, experiential one that I was lucky to survive, while the second one was more passive - sightseeing and photographing were the main activities. Leaders, assistants, drivers and cooks with both groups were excellent, particularly the group leader with the Sinai group, who nursed me along the treks.
Exodus provided water; we paid for our own water with Explore. Both are small group, British budget tours, very ecologically conscious.
Exodus tour cost $810 less $39.50 discount for past travel. Explore charged $1150 less 57.50 discount for past travel. Airfare (Air France/KLM) booked through Adventure Center: $1500. Most meals were included.
The hotels on the road, used by Explore were very comfortable resort hotels but few tourists about. For a country so dependent on the tourist industry, Egypt was hurting as a result of Arab Spring, though I saw nothing either in or out of Cairo that should deter anyone from traveling there.
I once said I would really take a serious look at my travels if I reached a point of being the last man moving. Which means I’d best read very thoroughly descriptions for anything labelled “trek”. And realize that much as I’d like to do it, there is a limit to my physical capabilities. Damn!
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Sleeping in Airports
There is a website, Sleeping in Airports.com. Really! Lists and grades airports all over the world. JFK is one of the ten worst and Changi/Singapore one of the ten best. Some of the others I’ve slept in aren’t listed.
I didn’t think JFK was that bad but certainly, Changi is that good. As is Dubai, at least the main international terminal; can’t say that much about the secondary terminal where I waited after a Kam flight from Kabul. Most of my overnight stays have been at Heathrow, as I go yearly from there to/from Amman, then catching flights to/from SF. The timing is ok coming but way off, returning - I come into LHR afternoons and then fly out the next mid morning. The best timing is with British Air.
There have been three past stopovers at LHR. The first one was bad! While the lighting was low and the loudspeakers at a minimum, the cleaning crew was busy and the air conditioning was blasting away. So between the noise and the cold, I got little sleep even though stretched out on a bench.
The next year, there was a system. All the overnighters were corralled at one of the gates with chaise lounges and various vending machines. And at about 5 AM, staff came with tea and coffee. The same routine happened last year only no tea and coffee in the AM. Two of the sleepovers were very hung over Russian seamen, frightened they would miss their plane. I ended up herding them from Terminal 1 to Terminal 5, where the three of us were scheduled on our respective flights.
JFK’s system is similar. One terminal is assigned to house the overnighters. Again, there are chaise lounges and benches for sleeping, vending machines and, as I recall, one fast food stand was open. It worked for me. It wasn’t a bad set up.
Moving on to Changi: the international terminal has about everything you could want., including a hotel where rooms can be had by the hour - which I have done. In fact, I must admit my two overnight stays there were at their hotel - so perhaps I shouldn’t count that one. It wasn’t truly an airport overnight camp in.
There is a hotel at Dubai’s main terminal, but it is expensive and was not considered. The first time, I slept in chaise lounges and on the carpeted floor with many others of all shapes and sizes. As I was on an Emirates connecting flight, I had a chit for a meal. The second time was even better: there was a separate dining room for transit passengers, so I camped out there for a good part of the night. I was offered a free room off grounds as again, I was on a connecting flight, but I didn’t want to hassle with the security in and out of the airport - if it had been the airport hotel, I would have grabbed it. All in all, it was a fairly decent experience, as airport overnighters go.
The secondary terminal was almost the direct opposite. Bare floors, basic chairs. Seated in a line up before closed counters, waiting for boarding passes. If it weren’t for my companion, an ex-Army, contract truck driver, flying home to Texas, I would have gone mad. I might not have agreed with him, but he was someone to talk with.
The other basic overnight wait, has been at the Orange county/John Wayne airport. Several years ago, on several occasions, I combined a family visit with a Performing Arts Center program, flying down from San Jose in the AM and flying back the next morning. I would take the cab to the airport after the performance and spend the night in a metal chair, waiting for the dawn and an early flight out. The first time I was saved by a sometime minister from the Islands, going back to the mid-west to be formally invested; the second time, was with a young guy watching old Westerns on his laptop.
Because of a missed connection, I ended up spending a night in the cafe at a Buenos Aires airport - not comfortable but the inner woman survived.
The most recent over night was in Beijing's new International Airport. Again, I had the choice of a hotel room off grounds as it was a connecting flight with China Air. And again, I didn’t want to hassle. The terminal was a magnificent new one with hourly rate hotel and lounge onsite. And by the time I had decided I would try one or the other, they had closed down. I spent time as I have at LHR, using the free computer and wandering around before lights were lowered, shops closed up, and it was time to stake out a chaise lounge for the night. And I, along with other strays, settled in at our respective gates. It was quite quiet and away from the noise of the cleaners. I would rate this among the top 10, guys!
I didn’t think JFK was that bad but certainly, Changi is that good. As is Dubai, at least the main international terminal; can’t say that much about the secondary terminal where I waited after a Kam flight from Kabul. Most of my overnight stays have been at Heathrow, as I go yearly from there to/from Amman, then catching flights to/from SF. The timing is ok coming but way off, returning - I come into LHR afternoons and then fly out the next mid morning. The best timing is with British Air.
There have been three past stopovers at LHR. The first one was bad! While the lighting was low and the loudspeakers at a minimum, the cleaning crew was busy and the air conditioning was blasting away. So between the noise and the cold, I got little sleep even though stretched out on a bench.
The next year, there was a system. All the overnighters were corralled at one of the gates with chaise lounges and various vending machines. And at about 5 AM, staff came with tea and coffee. The same routine happened last year only no tea and coffee in the AM. Two of the sleepovers were very hung over Russian seamen, frightened they would miss their plane. I ended up herding them from Terminal 1 to Terminal 5, where the three of us were scheduled on our respective flights.
JFK’s system is similar. One terminal is assigned to house the overnighters. Again, there are chaise lounges and benches for sleeping, vending machines and, as I recall, one fast food stand was open. It worked for me. It wasn’t a bad set up.
Moving on to Changi: the international terminal has about everything you could want., including a hotel where rooms can be had by the hour - which I have done. In fact, I must admit my two overnight stays there were at their hotel - so perhaps I shouldn’t count that one. It wasn’t truly an airport overnight camp in.
There is a hotel at Dubai’s main terminal, but it is expensive and was not considered. The first time, I slept in chaise lounges and on the carpeted floor with many others of all shapes and sizes. As I was on an Emirates connecting flight, I had a chit for a meal. The second time was even better: there was a separate dining room for transit passengers, so I camped out there for a good part of the night. I was offered a free room off grounds as again, I was on a connecting flight, but I didn’t want to hassle with the security in and out of the airport - if it had been the airport hotel, I would have grabbed it. All in all, it was a fairly decent experience, as airport overnighters go.
The secondary terminal was almost the direct opposite. Bare floors, basic chairs. Seated in a line up before closed counters, waiting for boarding passes. If it weren’t for my companion, an ex-Army, contract truck driver, flying home to Texas, I would have gone mad. I might not have agreed with him, but he was someone to talk with.
The other basic overnight wait, has been at the Orange county/John Wayne airport. Several years ago, on several occasions, I combined a family visit with a Performing Arts Center program, flying down from San Jose in the AM and flying back the next morning. I would take the cab to the airport after the performance and spend the night in a metal chair, waiting for the dawn and an early flight out. The first time I was saved by a sometime minister from the Islands, going back to the mid-west to be formally invested; the second time, was with a young guy watching old Westerns on his laptop.
Because of a missed connection, I ended up spending a night in the cafe at a Buenos Aires airport - not comfortable but the inner woman survived.
The most recent over night was in Beijing's new International Airport. Again, I had the choice of a hotel room off grounds as it was a connecting flight with China Air. And again, I didn’t want to hassle. The terminal was a magnificent new one with hourly rate hotel and lounge onsite. And by the time I had decided I would try one or the other, they had closed down. I spent time as I have at LHR, using the free computer and wandering around before lights were lowered, shops closed up, and it was time to stake out a chaise lounge for the night. And I, along with other strays, settled in at our respective gates. It was quite quiet and away from the noise of the cleaners. I would rate this among the top 10, guys!
Monday, August 29, 2011
Seventh Raleigh Spy Conference: August 24-26 2011
I had heard about the Spy Conference several years ago, when they focused on female spies but had other places to go and things to do. This year, the timing worked.
The topic was: Spies Among US, the Secret World of Illegals concluding with former NSA/CIA director General Michael Hayden, reviewing the Bin Laden operation. Sponsored by a local magazine, the gathering is the major intelligence conference specifically for “civilians” by the Association of Former Intelligence Officers.
This year’s topic was inspired by the FBI’s detention of ten Russian illegals in the US last year, including the rather flamboyant Anna Chapman. It was fascinating to hear the back stories of this and other incidents, beginning with pre-WW2 and Rudolph Abel affair. And it did help that I joined up with a retired USAF colonel/ DIA agent and a British researcher - the Colonel and I being WEB Griffin fans. They identified various players in the Intelligence game. Also, one of the speakers, Nigel West, was familiar to me from a symposium in the UK several years ago - he is a prolific writer and facile speaker.
In addition to the British perspective, a former director of CIA’s clandestine service, gave a historical overview of use of illegals, who operate in addition to a foreign embassy’s legal staff in obtaining information. A retired Canadian intelligence officer talked about how prospective operatives transited via Canada. Another retired CIA officer - the “other man” in the Robert Hanssen case - discussed “the spies next door”, the ten individuals who were returned to Russia in exchange for four of ours.
There was a round table featuring the author of the new biography about OSS founder William Donovan - which has had very good reviews; a journalist who has a new book out on American-Chinese spy wars, and an ex-CIA officer who has concerns regarding covert influences on American/Western institutions.
The keynote address was the concluding event: General Hayden’s discussion of the Bin Laden operation, which involved at least ten years’ effort, several Presidents and CIA directors, before it came to fruition, I found it most interesting for I had recently heard Admiral Eric Olson, who headed up the Special Operations Command, talk - or avoid talking - about B-L take-down at the Aspen Security conference on C-Span several weeks ago. One comment General Hayden made which caught my attention was that the CIA is reverting to its roots, using more of the OSS approach - which was to the good. Considering that Petreaus and Panetta had done a bit of a switch, it fits - see John Berry’s June piece, Obama’s Secret Wars (Daily Beast).
It was largely the gray-haired set that attended the two day event: active and retired veterans of various government agencies, researchers, interested citizens and IT “groupies”. Unlike me, many had come before - there have been seven previous conferences. There were handouts from the CIA Historical Collections division and books for sale by participants. The two social gatherings featured marvelous buffets - one at an excellent restaurant and the other at a jazz club - : live music with bass, guitar and vibes, with a sometime tenor sax.
I stayed downtown. As there are no overpasses or ring roads, all the traffic charges through the City. I did a fair amount of walking, including into the Farmer’s Market which was alive, interesting and active as Farmer’s Markets tend to be. Buildings range from old brick and stone to modern concrete and glass. There is some greenery with trees along the walkways and kept - and unkept - grounds..
I would return, but only for the Spy Conference.
There was the threat of hurricane Irene so I left Friday afternoon rather than Saturday morning - United was most helpful in changing the flight even though I was traveling on miles. And the airport is most modern and comfortable and with a second hand bookstore - I did make use of that. So home midnight Friday, to be greeted by a loving Siamese.
With use of FF miles for airfare, cost ran less than $700: United Airlines ($40), hotel ($240), meals ($50), conference fee($150) shuttle ($40) and cat care ($140).
The topic was: Spies Among US, the Secret World of Illegals concluding with former NSA/CIA director General Michael Hayden, reviewing the Bin Laden operation. Sponsored by a local magazine, the gathering is the major intelligence conference specifically for “civilians” by the Association of Former Intelligence Officers.
This year’s topic was inspired by the FBI’s detention of ten Russian illegals in the US last year, including the rather flamboyant Anna Chapman. It was fascinating to hear the back stories of this and other incidents, beginning with pre-WW2 and Rudolph Abel affair. And it did help that I joined up with a retired USAF colonel/ DIA agent and a British researcher - the Colonel and I being WEB Griffin fans. They identified various players in the Intelligence game. Also, one of the speakers, Nigel West, was familiar to me from a symposium in the UK several years ago - he is a prolific writer and facile speaker.
In addition to the British perspective, a former director of CIA’s clandestine service, gave a historical overview of use of illegals, who operate in addition to a foreign embassy’s legal staff in obtaining information. A retired Canadian intelligence officer talked about how prospective operatives transited via Canada. Another retired CIA officer - the “other man” in the Robert Hanssen case - discussed “the spies next door”, the ten individuals who were returned to Russia in exchange for four of ours.
There was a round table featuring the author of the new biography about OSS founder William Donovan - which has had very good reviews; a journalist who has a new book out on American-Chinese spy wars, and an ex-CIA officer who has concerns regarding covert influences on American/Western institutions.
The keynote address was the concluding event: General Hayden’s discussion of the Bin Laden operation, which involved at least ten years’ effort, several Presidents and CIA directors, before it came to fruition, I found it most interesting for I had recently heard Admiral Eric Olson, who headed up the Special Operations Command, talk - or avoid talking - about B-L take-down at the Aspen Security conference on C-Span several weeks ago. One comment General Hayden made which caught my attention was that the CIA is reverting to its roots, using more of the OSS approach - which was to the good. Considering that Petreaus and Panetta had done a bit of a switch, it fits - see John Berry’s June piece, Obama’s Secret Wars (Daily Beast).
It was largely the gray-haired set that attended the two day event: active and retired veterans of various government agencies, researchers, interested citizens and IT “groupies”. Unlike me, many had come before - there have been seven previous conferences. There were handouts from the CIA Historical Collections division and books for sale by participants. The two social gatherings featured marvelous buffets - one at an excellent restaurant and the other at a jazz club - : live music with bass, guitar and vibes, with a sometime tenor sax.
I stayed downtown. As there are no overpasses or ring roads, all the traffic charges through the City. I did a fair amount of walking, including into the Farmer’s Market which was alive, interesting and active as Farmer’s Markets tend to be. Buildings range from old brick and stone to modern concrete and glass. There is some greenery with trees along the walkways and kept - and unkept - grounds..
I would return, but only for the Spy Conference.
There was the threat of hurricane Irene so I left Friday afternoon rather than Saturday morning - United was most helpful in changing the flight even though I was traveling on miles. And the airport is most modern and comfortable and with a second hand bookstore - I did make use of that. So home midnight Friday, to be greeted by a loving Siamese.
With use of FF miles for airfare, cost ran less than $700: United Airlines ($40), hotel ($240), meals ($50), conference fee($150) shuttle ($40) and cat care ($140).
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Book Recommendation
A Line in the Sand: Britain, France and the Struggle that Shaped the Middle East
James Barr has a new book out. Simply put, a good read and I recommend it.
I’ve wandered about the Middle East a bit and done a fair amount of reading about the area particularly from WW1 through WW2. And I have a fascination with the predominately British characters who haunted the area, for self and Empire. In my simplistic script, the French were the Bad Guys, holding the Arabs back. So did the Brits, but I was inclined to forgive them. After all, they had TE Lawrence in his flowing robes.
And that certainly didn’t endear them to the French!
The French are still the Bad Guys - not that the Brits were always the Good Guys. Both were out for what they could get, damn the torpedoes - or rather, the Arabs. And James Barr’s latest work is about the over the thirty-four year competition between the two countries to obtain/retain supremacy in the Middle East.
It isn’t just that the French resisted freeing Syria after WW2, but the way they went about revenging themselves on the British who seemed one step ahead in the Intelligence game. But then there was the equivocations of the British government; their failure to face down the French! It was in Palestine where the French got theirs back, supporting in one way or another, both Irgun and Stern terrorist gangs Even the US got into that act with well meaning and, hopefully, unknowing citizens paying into those particular Jewish coffers (much as occurred later, during the Irish Troubles).
Barr documents this all in a well written history and thoroughly documented history of the time. While I knew the ending, the journey was memorizing.
I can’t resist but conclude with a comment by the former Chief Secretary of Palestine, a survivor of the King David Hotel bombing, that might be a guide in today’s foreign policy: “.....it’s not your business or my business .....to interfere in other people’s countries and tell them how to run it, or even to run it well. They must be left to their own salvation.”
James Barr has a new book out. Simply put, a good read and I recommend it.
I’ve wandered about the Middle East a bit and done a fair amount of reading about the area particularly from WW1 through WW2. And I have a fascination with the predominately British characters who haunted the area, for self and Empire. In my simplistic script, the French were the Bad Guys, holding the Arabs back. So did the Brits, but I was inclined to forgive them. After all, they had TE Lawrence in his flowing robes.
And that certainly didn’t endear them to the French!
The French are still the Bad Guys - not that the Brits were always the Good Guys. Both were out for what they could get, damn the torpedoes - or rather, the Arabs. And James Barr’s latest work is about the over the thirty-four year competition between the two countries to obtain/retain supremacy in the Middle East.
It isn’t just that the French resisted freeing Syria after WW2, but the way they went about revenging themselves on the British who seemed one step ahead in the Intelligence game. But then there was the equivocations of the British government; their failure to face down the French! It was in Palestine where the French got theirs back, supporting in one way or another, both Irgun and Stern terrorist gangs Even the US got into that act with well meaning and, hopefully, unknowing citizens paying into those particular Jewish coffers (much as occurred later, during the Irish Troubles).
Barr documents this all in a well written history and thoroughly documented history of the time. While I knew the ending, the journey was memorizing.
I can’t resist but conclude with a comment by the former Chief Secretary of Palestine, a survivor of the King David Hotel bombing, that might be a guide in today’s foreign policy: “.....it’s not your business or my business .....to interfere in other people’s countries and tell them how to run it, or even to run it well. They must be left to their own salvation.”
Sunday, July 17, 2011
A Ger, not a Yurt: Two weeks in Mongolia & the Naadam Festival
On June 30, 2011, I was at SFO, checking in at the Air China counter, the only Westerner in line, with a reservation clerk very doubtful about my beat up passport and lack of visa (not required for US citizens in Mongolia). After several consultations, I finally succeeded getting my boarding pass and then, through Security to the lounge where I chatted with a guy who looked ex-Special Forces, who was hoping for a Shanghai flight - wondered how he got that far without some sort of boarding pass?
This was the start of the two week Mongolian journey that took me to Chinggis Khan country that still has elements of the old days and an appreciation of past history. But like most developing nations, Mongolia is a combination of old, new and undecided. The capital, Ulaanbaatar, shows evidence of the past communist influence and is a work in progress. A dozen of more cranes lurk above the City along with "moderne"structures and uncompleted Russian block houses hiding the old, ill kept ethic buildings. There is no consistency.
And why was I there? Certainly not to spend time in UB, but to get out to the countryside, to the mountains and meadows and above all, the Gobi desert. I was with an Explore group of six: three Brits, an Irish and a Portuguese and me, the token American. It was an exceptional compatible group with a knowledgeable tour leader. There were few glitches, other than stolen Blackberry and a wrecked ankle necessitating one woman's early flight home.
The Itinerary, backwards or forwards, was pretty standard for travelers at this time of year: Ulaanbaatar-Magno Khan-Karakorum-Saikhan Ovoo-South Gobi-Dafanzadgad. Motor transport one way and fly the other. We went by a sturdy fifteen passenger Russian bus out and flew back. Then, drove onto Jalman Meadows for several days before returning to UB for the Naadam Festival, a yearly celebration of wrestling, archery and horse riding skills. There were a fair number of tourist - people came for horse riding trek, camping expeditions and, as we did, just looking-around tours.
After a day orienting to UB, we left, bumping our way to the most basic of the five Ger camps - but one of the best located. In the mountains, with scrub valley terrain, reminding me of Algeria/SW United States, Morocco/The Sudan. The air was clear; the scenery awesome. One day was spent on a 10K hike, at least 3K up into rocky passages before the struggle down a more graduated path. Both evenings, several of us clambered onto nearby rocks to observe/photograph the astounding sunsets.
The next major stoop was at Karakorum, the ancient capital of Mongolia, much in need of restoration. Equally significant was the nearby Erdene-Zi Monastery, established in the 1500s, now more of a museum. Recently, the practice of Buddhism is returning so the Monastery is being restored, albeit slowly. There was also a beautifully executed new museum, focusing on Mongolia's history - all but barren of visitors.
Windy, cold and wet, the bus struggled toward the Gobi, overheating several times. Bumpy tracks and barren landscape until The Flaming Cliffs, similar to Canyonlands in the US, An area where Roy Chapman Andrews found dinosaur eggs. Enroute I did my bactrian (two humped) camel ride - very brief when you consider I've suffered on dromedaries (one humpers) for ten days. But muh more comfortable - and with stirrups! Two Ger camps and several villages on and we were on the Gobi, with surprisingly green scrub from the rains.
One hike was in the Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park, where we got in as far as the glacier; then to another path into the rocks where we were slowed by a second glacier. Flora and fauna abounded with the photographers busy, snapping away.
From here, it was a flight to UB and onto Jalman Meadows, described as a true wilderness, a transition zone between steppes and forest. Though much of the countryside so far had seemed quiet and peaceful, Jalman Meadows seems most serene. Several of the group took the opportunity to ride horses, several simply walked about the area with its nearby river, and all went on a yak cart ridge across the river and into the trees.
Throughout, we passed nomads with their gers and livestock. I have never seen so many free range horses. Sheep, goats and cows populated the landscape, blocking traffic (such as it was). It seemed another era.
Back to UB for the Festival: the city was crowded with both Mongol and overseas visitors. The opening ceremonies on the main square had heavy military and political attendance. Then to the main stadium where the Olympic-type proceedings continued. Bands, drill, gymnastic exercises - all before a large enthusiastic audience. By afternoon, the wrestling was in one stadium and archery was in another - with women allowed to compete in the archery contests.
The audience was of as much interest as the performances: clothing ranged from tunics and sashes of the old days to micro-mini skirts and t-shirts of new times - and everything in between. Many of the older folk wore medals stemming from the communist days. Concessionaires were all over. There seemed a party atmosphere of a State Fair.
Horse Racing was the second day, in a venues way out of UB. Though we left early, we had competition from hundred of others. I have never experienced in such a automobile jam, going or coming Suddenly a four lane road is eleven lanes, all going the same way. Checkpoints ignored, cars squealing through gas stations and across streams with police efforts to corral the chaos, unsuccessful!
The horse racing venue was lovely: grassy hills with a fence defining the track and the army providing some security. Concessioners sold kites, people brought small pup tents and picnicked and the horses did not run on time. About an hour plus, late, the trotted to their starting point and too off, one firmly took the lead and stayed throughout.
Then, back to the chaos of returning to UB. And the fight home the next day!
Accommodations: I had called them yurts, which is apparently the Russian term - yurt or ger - all the same. Portable, felt covered over a rounded wooden lattice-=like frame with waterproof fabric covering it all, they are quite quite comfortable. Several of the one I stayed in had a wood stove with the smoke exiting via a hole at the apex. Two had electricity - otherwise, it was candle power. All were set up for two person occupancy with comfortable beds and plenty of bedding. If I were rating them: 1-2 star; 3-3 star and 1-4 star. The UB hotel with a standard 3 start, good location and with internet and wi-fi.
Facilities: Two of the ger camps had buildings with toilet and sowers. The rest had shower-gers with hot water heated on the wood stove, mixed with cold, poured into a cylinder with a presssure pump to push out water for showers. It worked ok, though I found it easier to mix hot and cold water in a pail and do a Hindu bath. The toilet at one camp was a set of chemical units; the other were put toilets with a Western seat (though the first place had a squat pit toilet for those inclined).
The food: Plentiful but basic meat-rice-potatoes diet. Mornings were good: often cereal/muesli. eggs. bred. cucumbers and tomatoes. Sandwiches, tomatoes, hard boiled eff and apple/orange for lunch as often, we ate on the run. Salad, soup and meat-rice-potato at night. As a non-meat eater, it was difficult for me - I recall chicken four times in two weeks. Out of desperation, I did end up chewing on some meat though did ignore the "mystery meat" sandwiches.
Entertainment: On one of the last evenings in town, Nomadic Journeys, who was the local provider for this tour, had all their groups together for dinner (maybe the worst meal of the trip) and entertainment. A ethnic musical group who did throat singing was outstanding. The style show was unique. I would have preferred both in a different setting than a standard hotel dining room with a bunch of noisy tourists. busy with picture taking.
Accommodations: I had called them Yurts, which is apparently the Russian term - they are the same. Portable, felt covered over a rounded wooden lattice-like frame, with waterproof fabric covering it all, they are quite comfortable. Several of the ones I stayed in had a wood stove with the smoke exiting via a whole at the apex. Two had electricity; otherwise it was candle-power. If I were rating them: 1-2 star, 3-3 star and 1-4 star. The UB Hotel was a standard 3 star, good location and with Internet.
Facilities: Two of the Ger Camps had buildings with toilets and showers, The others had Shower-Gers with hot water (heated on the wood stove) to be mixed with cold, poured into a cylinder with a pressure pump to push out water for a shower - in one instance I found it easier to mix hot and cold water in a pail and take a Hindi bath. The toilet at one camp was a set of enclosed chemical units and others were pit toilets albeit with a Western seat. (though the first place had a squat pit toilet for those inclined).
The food: Plentiful but a basic meat-rice-potatoes diet. Mornings were good: often cereal/muesli, eggs, bread, cucumbers and tomatoes. Sandwiches, tomatoes and hard boiled egg at noon for often, we were eating on the run. Salad, soup and meat-rice-potato at night. As a non meat eater, it was difficult for me - I recall having chicken four times during the two weeks - and two of those times was at lunch. I ended up eating some meat, though did ignore the ”mystery meat” sandwiches.
Cost: Explore Worldwide Land of the Great Khan-Naadam Festival tour: $3500 for two weeks including almost all meals. (I get a discount as a prior Explore client). Air China: $2000 including an overnight hotel in Beijing due to the long layover. Also, I was upgraded to Business class Beijing to SFO - a nice touch!.
This was the start of the two week Mongolian journey that took me to Chinggis Khan country that still has elements of the old days and an appreciation of past history. But like most developing nations, Mongolia is a combination of old, new and undecided. The capital, Ulaanbaatar, shows evidence of the past communist influence and is a work in progress. A dozen of more cranes lurk above the City along with "moderne"structures and uncompleted Russian block houses hiding the old, ill kept ethic buildings. There is no consistency.
And why was I there? Certainly not to spend time in UB, but to get out to the countryside, to the mountains and meadows and above all, the Gobi desert. I was with an Explore group of six: three Brits, an Irish and a Portuguese and me, the token American. It was an exceptional compatible group with a knowledgeable tour leader. There were few glitches, other than stolen Blackberry and a wrecked ankle necessitating one woman's early flight home.
The Itinerary, backwards or forwards, was pretty standard for travelers at this time of year: Ulaanbaatar-Magno Khan-Karakorum-Saikhan Ovoo-South Gobi-Dafanzadgad. Motor transport one way and fly the other. We went by a sturdy fifteen passenger Russian bus out and flew back. Then, drove onto Jalman Meadows for several days before returning to UB for the Naadam Festival, a yearly celebration of wrestling, archery and horse riding skills. There were a fair number of tourist - people came for horse riding trek, camping expeditions and, as we did, just looking-around tours.
After a day orienting to UB, we left, bumping our way to the most basic of the five Ger camps - but one of the best located. In the mountains, with scrub valley terrain, reminding me of Algeria/SW United States, Morocco/The Sudan. The air was clear; the scenery awesome. One day was spent on a 10K hike, at least 3K up into rocky passages before the struggle down a more graduated path. Both evenings, several of us clambered onto nearby rocks to observe/photograph the astounding sunsets.
The next major stoop was at Karakorum, the ancient capital of Mongolia, much in need of restoration. Equally significant was the nearby Erdene-Zi Monastery, established in the 1500s, now more of a museum. Recently, the practice of Buddhism is returning so the Monastery is being restored, albeit slowly. There was also a beautifully executed new museum, focusing on Mongolia's history - all but barren of visitors.
Windy, cold and wet, the bus struggled toward the Gobi, overheating several times. Bumpy tracks and barren landscape until The Flaming Cliffs, similar to Canyonlands in the US, An area where Roy Chapman Andrews found dinosaur eggs. Enroute I did my bactrian (two humped) camel ride - very brief when you consider I've suffered on dromedaries (one humpers) for ten days. But muh more comfortable - and with stirrups! Two Ger camps and several villages on and we were on the Gobi, with surprisingly green scrub from the rains.
One hike was in the Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park, where we got in as far as the glacier; then to another path into the rocks where we were slowed by a second glacier. Flora and fauna abounded with the photographers busy, snapping away.
From here, it was a flight to UB and onto Jalman Meadows, described as a true wilderness, a transition zone between steppes and forest. Though much of the countryside so far had seemed quiet and peaceful, Jalman Meadows seems most serene. Several of the group took the opportunity to ride horses, several simply walked about the area with its nearby river, and all went on a yak cart ridge across the river and into the trees.
Throughout, we passed nomads with their gers and livestock. I have never seen so many free range horses. Sheep, goats and cows populated the landscape, blocking traffic (such as it was). It seemed another era.
Back to UB for the Festival: the city was crowded with both Mongol and overseas visitors. The opening ceremonies on the main square had heavy military and political attendance. Then to the main stadium where the Olympic-type proceedings continued. Bands, drill, gymnastic exercises - all before a large enthusiastic audience. By afternoon, the wrestling was in one stadium and archery was in another - with women allowed to compete in the archery contests.
The audience was of as much interest as the performances: clothing ranged from tunics and sashes of the old days to micro-mini skirts and t-shirts of new times - and everything in between. Many of the older folk wore medals stemming from the communist days. Concessionaires were all over. There seemed a party atmosphere of a State Fair.
Horse Racing was the second day, in a venues way out of UB. Though we left early, we had competition from hundred of others. I have never experienced in such a automobile jam, going or coming Suddenly a four lane road is eleven lanes, all going the same way. Checkpoints ignored, cars squealing through gas stations and across streams with police efforts to corral the chaos, unsuccessful!
The horse racing venue was lovely: grassy hills with a fence defining the track and the army providing some security. Concessioners sold kites, people brought small pup tents and picnicked and the horses did not run on time. About an hour plus, late, the trotted to their starting point and too off, one firmly took the lead and stayed throughout.
Then, back to the chaos of returning to UB. And the fight home the next day!
Accommodations: I had called them yurts, which is apparently the Russian term - yurt or ger - all the same. Portable, felt covered over a rounded wooden lattice-=like frame with waterproof fabric covering it all, they are quite quite comfortable. Several of the one I stayed in had a wood stove with the smoke exiting via a hole at the apex. Two had electricity - otherwise, it was candle power. All were set up for two person occupancy with comfortable beds and plenty of bedding. If I were rating them: 1-2 star; 3-3 star and 1-4 star. The UB hotel with a standard 3 start, good location and with internet and wi-fi.
Facilities: Two of the ger camps had buildings with toilet and sowers. The rest had shower-gers with hot water heated on the wood stove, mixed with cold, poured into a cylinder with a presssure pump to push out water for showers. It worked ok, though I found it easier to mix hot and cold water in a pail and do a Hindu bath. The toilet at one camp was a set of chemical units; the other were put toilets with a Western seat (though the first place had a squat pit toilet for those inclined).
The food: Plentiful but basic meat-rice-potatoes diet. Mornings were good: often cereal/muesli. eggs. bred. cucumbers and tomatoes. Sandwiches, tomatoes, hard boiled eff and apple/orange for lunch as often, we ate on the run. Salad, soup and meat-rice-potato at night. As a non-meat eater, it was difficult for me - I recall chicken four times in two weeks. Out of desperation, I did end up chewing on some meat though did ignore the "mystery meat" sandwiches.
Entertainment: On one of the last evenings in town, Nomadic Journeys, who was the local provider for this tour, had all their groups together for dinner (maybe the worst meal of the trip) and entertainment. A ethnic musical group who did throat singing was outstanding. The style show was unique. I would have preferred both in a different setting than a standard hotel dining room with a bunch of noisy tourists. busy with picture taking.
Accommodations: I had called them Yurts, which is apparently the Russian term - they are the same. Portable, felt covered over a rounded wooden lattice-like frame, with waterproof fabric covering it all, they are quite comfortable. Several of the ones I stayed in had a wood stove with the smoke exiting via a whole at the apex. Two had electricity; otherwise it was candle-power. If I were rating them: 1-2 star, 3-3 star and 1-4 star. The UB Hotel was a standard 3 star, good location and with Internet.
Facilities: Two of the Ger Camps had buildings with toilets and showers, The others had Shower-Gers with hot water (heated on the wood stove) to be mixed with cold, poured into a cylinder with a pressure pump to push out water for a shower - in one instance I found it easier to mix hot and cold water in a pail and take a Hindi bath. The toilet at one camp was a set of enclosed chemical units and others were pit toilets albeit with a Western seat. (though the first place had a squat pit toilet for those inclined).
The food: Plentiful but a basic meat-rice-potatoes diet. Mornings were good: often cereal/muesli, eggs, bread, cucumbers and tomatoes. Sandwiches, tomatoes and hard boiled egg at noon for often, we were eating on the run. Salad, soup and meat-rice-potato at night. As a non meat eater, it was difficult for me - I recall having chicken four times during the two weeks - and two of those times was at lunch. I ended up eating some meat, though did ignore the ”mystery meat” sandwiches.
Cost: Explore Worldwide Land of the Great Khan-Naadam Festival tour: $3500 for two weeks including almost all meals. (I get a discount as a prior Explore client). Air China: $2000 including an overnight hotel in Beijing due to the long layover. Also, I was upgraded to Business class Beijing to SFO - a nice touch!.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
