Monday, October 22, 2012
October 2012 at the Oregon Shakespeare
I flew to Ashland, Oregon, to the Shakespeare Festival for my birthday, likely my thirtieth? fortieth? time there. I think I first went in 1952, then sporadically for several years before attending with more regularity for at least twenty years, usually in September for I could claim Labor Day as part of my vacation time.
For years, my husband and I drove. Then we flew Alaska Air, San Jose to Portland to Medford with a shuttle to Ashland. As a single, I continued with that for awhile. Then tried the bus, then the train - wrote about both of these trips earlier. Gave up and have been taking a direct United flight from San Francisco to Medford, still using the shuttle to Ashland.
Same with accommodations: I’ve stayed at half a dozen places: early on, at Jackson Hot Springs and then in Ashland. Motels at both north and south ends of town as well downtown. I’ve now settled on a Main Street hotel, above various stores, comfortable and cozy, with facilities down the hall. They do have insuite arrangements, but I can manage otherwise. In the lobby, overstuffed couch and chairs, hot tea available along with the New York Times. What more can one want?
So I was there for Birthday time. Besides plays, I had considered river rafting. But the downtown office was closed for the season. And it was nippy enough to require a wet suit - which I didn’t have. So I settled for theatre though really wanted to do something exciting at this time of life. I have been on a camel trek, sky dived, flown an aircraft - five plays in two theatres in three days seemed tame. So be it.
As usual, I did do some walking about this most picturesque town with leaves turning to rust and yellow. Lithia Park is, as always, lovely, with various wildlife happily bathing in the ponds. I have so often threatened to move here; every time I visit, I reconsider the possibility. With the college and the Festival, there is much cultural activity. Two things hold me up: changing my medical coverage and the hassle of traveling out of Medford.
The plays were a mix: Troulus and Cressida was my Shakespeare; Animal Crackers was more vaudeville than farce; All the Way was a saga of LBJ, Party People was of the Black Panther days, and Medea/MacBeth/Cinderella was a musical mishmash of three classics - need to see that again to figure it out.
The audiences were enthusiastic. - many of the gray-haired set with an assortment of canes about. This bunch was balanced with groups of students. Though late in the season, the house was well filled; several performances were sell outs. And it was late enough that the pre show performances were over and the Elizabethan Theatre shut down. I did attend several after show discussions which were interesting and gave insights into the play, the casting and production generally
Coming home, the flights were running an hour or more late due to fog at SFO. I was able to catch an earlier flight - which left at about the time of my scheduled flight - and made it home in time to feed Sam on schedule; his schedule.
Costs: United Express SFO-Medford was $ 347. Cascade Shuttle: Medford Airport- Ashland RT: $60. . Accommodation: $287. Meals ran about $150. .
Plan for next year: there is a shuttle from the Mountain View to Ashland: $55 base cost. I’ll give that a go. And avoid the airport security hassle.
Friday, September 28, 2012
Yearly trip to the UK: 14-24 Sep 2012
It’s Fall and I am off to London and Oxford: Theatre, friends and the bi-yearly TE Lawrence Symposium. Again,. stayed at a Bed-and-Breakfast Hotel near Russell Square in London - immaculate with facilities down the stairs. Computer services across the way. I really like London and could have spent more than the four allotted days there.
I did see four plays: three were excellent and one, despite outstanding reviews, was a bomb. There were two mucial performance: one was a combination of film and music (Planet Earth) and the other was a memorial to an academic/musician/author - ended with several Weill songs from The Happy End. I concluded with a San Francisco Ballet performance at Sadlers Wells - appropriate!
Visited with friends: a Hampstead walk and lunch with a colleague from the Iraq trip and then supper and a show with two women with whom I’ve shared several overseas excursions, people I will meet again in several months on a Copper Canyon holiday trip.
But the high point was rummaging about at the Palestine Exploration Fund, the group that sponsored Leonard Woolley and TE Lawrence in a pre WW1 trip into the Sinai, as the “beard” for Colonel Stewart Newcombe’s military survey. They had original correspondence from Woolley, the expedition’s senior member as well a notes from TE Lawrence, who did not want credit as co author on The Wilderness of Zin. Additionally, I was shown a survey sketch by the young Lt. H. E. Kitchener. Impressive! Surprisingly, only one of the plethora of Lawrence biographers had been to the PEF office to review their documents.
I missed out on the Imperial War Museum and the Special Forces Club but did catch the police security outside the Uruguayan Embassy - there just in case the Wikileaks guy came out. The weather was lovely and I ws able to walk all over - used by Oyster card only to come into town from Heathrow and to get to Marble Arch for the Oxford bus. Oh well, have to have something on the list for next year!
So off to Oxford to the Symposium. Housing was at St. Hilda’s, a bit out of the way from main town Oxford. Room was basic with a bit of a hike down the hall to the facilities. Weather was cool and overcast with some rain at the end. But Oxford, as Morse and Lewis fans know, is a lovely old town. Before, I’ve stayed in the town’s center at Christ Church or St. John’s, both a bit nicer than St. Hilda’s. The Symposium was held at the Jacqueline du Pré auditorium which featured a lovely photo of her in her heyday, so vital and alive.
There was a prequel to the Symposium on Friday for those of us who came early - this included several people I knew from the Great Arab Revolt Project, where I have been a participant for the past four? five? years. . We had time at the Codrington Library at All Souls and Ashmolean Museum, viewing Lawrence artifacts, in the morning. The afternoon began with a DVD slide show of Lawrence’s life and times. Then concluded with one of our GARP staff’s presentation of the Jordanian terrain, both from RFC photos of WW1 in comparison with own photos., some of which were quite spectacular. That evening, a lovely supper at a Middle Eastern Restaurant.
On to the two day main event; eight lectures in all, most power point presentations with slides. Some better than others. I had trouble focusing on papers read as opposed to those more spontaneously presented. Topics ranged from friends and contemporaries of Lawrence to his dress to Herbert Read (Aldington’s predecessor) to the Hejaz Railway to the 1920 Iraq Rebellion to Arab Spring.
Surprisingly, I found the talk showing TEL’s various costumes, both military and Arab, quite interesting as it showed his changing sense of identity. The slides of the Hejaz fascinated me, for I had seen some of the sites. The talks on W. F. Sterling and A. W.Wavell were superb - good speakers and exceptional subjects. While one of the questions re: Arab Spring was how TEL would have viewed the current events; my question was how TEL would have viewed an organization and a symposium devoted to his life and ideas.
There was a dinner at the college with an after dinner speaker, a quite affable book dealer with a fine sense of humor. And that was it. The strays met for breakfast the next morning before catching trains and flights to their next destination - for me, the bus to Heathrow where I, and the San Francisco Ballet company, headed home.
Food: In London, tended to pick up a bite at Pre a Manger except for two meals in a proper restaurant. One at The Wigmore Cafe and the other at Woodlands, an Indian place with some tied to a Omani restaurant of the same name. Both good. At Oxford, the food at the college was excellent as was the off campus restaurant. I also had a couple of bites at a nearbypub which were okay.
Accommodation: In London, it was my third stay at The Celtic Hotel, a very comfortable bed and breakfast. I paid £290 cash for the five nights.(they will take credit cards for an additional 3%.) Student room at St. Hilda’s, Oxford was. £42 a night. (suspect I was the only one left in this large building that last night. )
Transportation: United Air round trip SFO-LHR: $1220. Oyster card: £20. Bus fares: £30.
Sam care: $420.
I’m ready to return, like tomorrow! London was my first overseas trip and I keep repeating it, year after year.
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Pamir Mountains and the Wakhan Corridor June-July 2012 w/ Wild Frontiers
This morning - several days home from Central Asia - I read of six killed in Afghanistan. This was not the Afghanistan I just left. The Afghanistan where I had just spent ten days was free of conflict - no Taliban and no ISAAF troops. Rather, the Central Asia Institute, the Wildlife Conservation Society and the Aga Khan Foundation were the active players: in education, training local rangers, providing health services and bridge/road building.
Northeast Afghanistan is a tit of land between Tajikistan, Pakistan and China, mapped by Europeans in 1895 in an effort to provide a Afghan buffer zone between Britain and Russia. This is a really a land out of time: The people of the Pamir are Ismaili, a moderate Muslim sect with little of the militancy found in other parts of the world. I had run into Ismailism along the Kararkorum when earlier in Pakistan. The Spiritual leader, the Aga Khan was educated and lives in the West, supporting his adherents through his Foundation.
This was a twenty day tour, starting in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, another escapee from Russian rule, having the style and class of a Soviet refugee. There were five us of us, including our leader, a well traveled Danish ex-pat, who managed the logistics, the supplies, the cook, the local guide and four drivers. The two other women had traveled with her before: a London doc and an Irish architect cum photographer - then the Just-Traveling-Through bearded Aussie guy who had taught, some here and more there, throughout the world in earlier years. We ended up sharing sleeping spaces, in one configuration or another.
Few foreign tourists wander into the Corridor, mostly trekkers and mountaineers. Per the guesthouse logbooks, Poles had been recent visitors. While we were there, a group of Canadians were starting their several week trek into the mountains. Our group drove about the area on most challenging roads, to the end of track that melted into the glaciers. Several of our group attempted to check nearby petroglyphs but were overwhelmed by the overflowing streams. I settled for visiting neighbors, who offered tea and yogurt.
The AKF and Norwegians sponsored a series of guesthouses, certainly more comfortable than the teahouses I slept in in a prior trip across Afghanistan in the lower Four-Forty - this now was the upper Four. Beds were either that, a single bed, or a carpeted/matted, platform, With facilities of a sort: Western toilet atop the hole in the ground or a standard squat number or simply, the hole in the ground. Water, yes! Cold, and sometimes warm water, for Hindu shower.
We drove down some of Tajikistan’s Pamir Highway before crossing over the Panj and moving to the Afghan side of of the border. Anyway you want to describe it, it was basic. Countryside was pristine, peaceful, beautiful, awesome. Many Splendored Mountains! The people were friendly - Salaams were cheerfully exchanged. Hospitality was a big thing. It was offered. It was expected.
Yet, they were were not totally isolated: Solar units and satellite dishes popped up across the landscapes; the electric light bulb in our guesthouse was a modern energy saving one. Near one place we stayed, Pakistan workers were building a detention facility - also near the conservation center focused on tracking the Snow Leopard.
We and the Canadians financed an afternoon’s game of buzkashi, which involves a headless goat, some horses and their riders. So far as we well could tell, our cook, a wild horseman who could manage upsidedown riding, won.
We were able to spend time in several schools with both boys and girls in attendance. However, the girls left early on for they had work to do at home, while often the boys were able to stay later. Built by the Greg Mortenson group, they were were not always fully staffed by the government. I talked with one set of parents who were very pleased by the education offered all their children. We also talked with the doctor and several nurses at one of the local clinics.
There were several efforts to set up craft work spaces for the women. They appeared barely used. Four hand sewing machines were still boxed. The space seemed most used when visitors came to town. Otherwise people worked in their homes or brought crafts to your place. The women were not traditionally covered but wore colorful red based garb with great freedom of movement.
There were, to me, surprisingly few check points. There were police but no Army around. All the Border crossing, processing was done by hand. A couple of officials, a couple of scribes, and some hangers-on. In our two Land Rovers, we drove about the Corridor, our drivers conquering the rocky and wet river crossings, with aplomb and a minimum of blown tyres.
Ah, food. We brought our own, along with our high riding cook, who came up with more creative ways to fix canned this-and-that. Once we left Tajikistan, there was no fresh whatever. Muesli, dried and canned fruit and juice for breakfast, tuna and pasta and canned vegs for lunch and dinner. Once back across to Khorog, Tajikistan, hot shower and omelet for breakfast.
By the time I got back to Dushanbe, I had a intestinal problem - I rarely get sick but I was wiped out at the end of this trip. I had, accidentally but fortunately, a two day layover. I spent time in bed though did get out the last evening for an Operatic performance of “historical significance” - totally unintelligible to me though I did figure out a hero an a villain.
It took me several days and three flights to wing my way home. On the last, from South Korea to San Francisco, I was lucky enough to have a vacant seat next to me. For the next few months, I'm home per Sam's demands - he's been a good patient cat throughout my travels and it's time to listen to his request.
An expensive trip - in fact the most expensive trip I’ve undertaken. It’s been an expensive travel year - back to the dull roar next year. Cost over $5000 for the tour and another $3200 for airfare. Cat care cost $930 - but he's worth every penny - and visas and permits close to $500.
Northeast Afghanistan is a tit of land between Tajikistan, Pakistan and China, mapped by Europeans in 1895 in an effort to provide a Afghan buffer zone between Britain and Russia. This is a really a land out of time: The people of the Pamir are Ismaili, a moderate Muslim sect with little of the militancy found in other parts of the world. I had run into Ismailism along the Kararkorum when earlier in Pakistan. The Spiritual leader, the Aga Khan was educated and lives in the West, supporting his adherents through his Foundation.
This was a twenty day tour, starting in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, another escapee from Russian rule, having the style and class of a Soviet refugee. There were five us of us, including our leader, a well traveled Danish ex-pat, who managed the logistics, the supplies, the cook, the local guide and four drivers. The two other women had traveled with her before: a London doc and an Irish architect cum photographer - then the Just-Traveling-Through bearded Aussie guy who had taught, some here and more there, throughout the world in earlier years. We ended up sharing sleeping spaces, in one configuration or another.
Few foreign tourists wander into the Corridor, mostly trekkers and mountaineers. Per the guesthouse logbooks, Poles had been recent visitors. While we were there, a group of Canadians were starting their several week trek into the mountains. Our group drove about the area on most challenging roads, to the end of track that melted into the glaciers. Several of our group attempted to check nearby petroglyphs but were overwhelmed by the overflowing streams. I settled for visiting neighbors, who offered tea and yogurt.
The AKF and Norwegians sponsored a series of guesthouses, certainly more comfortable than the teahouses I slept in in a prior trip across Afghanistan in the lower Four-Forty - this now was the upper Four. Beds were either that, a single bed, or a carpeted/matted, platform, With facilities of a sort: Western toilet atop the hole in the ground or a standard squat number or simply, the hole in the ground. Water, yes! Cold, and sometimes warm water, for Hindu shower.
We drove down some of Tajikistan’s Pamir Highway before crossing over the Panj and moving to the Afghan side of of the border. Anyway you want to describe it, it was basic. Countryside was pristine, peaceful, beautiful, awesome. Many Splendored Mountains! The people were friendly - Salaams were cheerfully exchanged. Hospitality was a big thing. It was offered. It was expected.
Yet, they were were not totally isolated: Solar units and satellite dishes popped up across the landscapes; the electric light bulb in our guesthouse was a modern energy saving one. Near one place we stayed, Pakistan workers were building a detention facility - also near the conservation center focused on tracking the Snow Leopard.
We and the Canadians financed an afternoon’s game of buzkashi, which involves a headless goat, some horses and their riders. So far as we well could tell, our cook, a wild horseman who could manage upsidedown riding, won.
We were able to spend time in several schools with both boys and girls in attendance. However, the girls left early on for they had work to do at home, while often the boys were able to stay later. Built by the Greg Mortenson group, they were were not always fully staffed by the government. I talked with one set of parents who were very pleased by the education offered all their children. We also talked with the doctor and several nurses at one of the local clinics.
There were several efforts to set up craft work spaces for the women. They appeared barely used. Four hand sewing machines were still boxed. The space seemed most used when visitors came to town. Otherwise people worked in their homes or brought crafts to your place. The women were not traditionally covered but wore colorful red based garb with great freedom of movement.
There were, to me, surprisingly few check points. There were police but no Army around. All the Border crossing, processing was done by hand. A couple of officials, a couple of scribes, and some hangers-on. In our two Land Rovers, we drove about the Corridor, our drivers conquering the rocky and wet river crossings, with aplomb and a minimum of blown tyres.
Ah, food. We brought our own, along with our high riding cook, who came up with more creative ways to fix canned this-and-that. Once we left Tajikistan, there was no fresh whatever. Muesli, dried and canned fruit and juice for breakfast, tuna and pasta and canned vegs for lunch and dinner. Once back across to Khorog, Tajikistan, hot shower and omelet for breakfast.
By the time I got back to Dushanbe, I had a intestinal problem - I rarely get sick but I was wiped out at the end of this trip. I had, accidentally but fortunately, a two day layover. I spent time in bed though did get out the last evening for an Operatic performance of “historical significance” - totally unintelligible to me though I did figure out a hero an a villain.
It took me several days and three flights to wing my way home. On the last, from South Korea to San Francisco, I was lucky enough to have a vacant seat next to me. For the next few months, I'm home per Sam's demands - he's been a good patient cat throughout my travels and it's time to listen to his request.
An expensive trip - in fact the most expensive trip I’ve undertaken. It’s been an expensive travel year - back to the dull roar next year. Cost over $5000 for the tour and another $3200 for airfare. Cat care cost $930 - but he's worth every penny - and visas and permits close to $500.
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Ten Days in Cuba: May 2012
Back on the road again. This time, Cuba, the last of the three countries heading my travel list for some years. Countries that have been all but impossible for me to visit. And this year, I’ve done them all: Saudi Arabia, Libya and now, Cuba.
I entered Cuba as a “delegate” with Global Exchange with a tour focused on Arts, Culture and Architecture. Most of the time was in Havana for we were rained out of Trinidad - in fact, the local resort where we stayed a night, closed down, thoroughly soaked by storms. We ended back in Havana a day early, at the Hotel Nacional, no great hardship there.
But to begin: there were twenty-two in the group: Writers, photographers, architectural historians, students, dancers and other interested travelers. Most stayed with the program though some went their own way - they had other agendas. The itinerary included a walking tour of Old Havana, visits to the Fine Arts Museum, an artist’s studio, meeting with an urban planner, time at various organizations, i.e. the Muraleado community project, the Ludwig Foundation, the Antonio Nuñez Jimenez Foundation, Casa de Africa and Fototeca (local photography) plus observation of dance classes and a rehearsal. And more.
Extra curricularly, I attended several performances of Ballet Nacional de Cuba’s student and main company, an enthusiastic song-dance Opera on the Streets and the Buena Vista Social club with its two marvelous Spanish-style ballroom dancers. And I did get to Hemingway’s Cuban home, now a museum, Finca La Vigia. I missed the Museum of Danse.
Cuba has been described as a country fixated in the fifties. There is some truth to that, what with the old cars and buildings, both in good condition and dilapidated disrepair. Buildings are old Spanish influenced Greco-Roman with decorative metal on both windows and balconies. In the Old Havana, the ground floor was often barren with rickety stairs leading to apartments that would be rejected by any self respected tenement.
My roommate visited several locals, friends of a friend, and reported the basic living conditions of even middle class, had few facilities in their small living areas. Toilets there and elsewhere, were sans seat and lid, leading to a half squat; toilet paper was rare, often handed out at entry for a small tip.
We started with a walk and talk about Old Havana, a presentation of the Master Plan for restoration. Into various plazas and religious buildings. A good orientation to the area.
For me, the high point was the time at Pro Danza, Laura Alonzo’s dance studio and company. As we drifted into observe class, I felt totally at ease, set to remain there indefinitely. The dancers were good, well trained - the men all but hit the ceiling of the room with their jumps and leaps. I was able to talk some with Alonzo, the daughter of Alicia and Fernando, who was charming and energetic as she talked of her background and the company. At seventy, she still takes class - my kind of woman!
Miguel Coyula was an outstanding speaker - not the filmmaker but the architect and urban planner . He reviewed the history of Cuban from the 1500s when it was a stopping point for ships from the colonies onto to their home ports, to the present. (Noted was that the Cuban Capital building, almost identical to the US Capital, excepting two metres taller.) Baptista and the Mafia worked hand in glove. So it was at Revolution, people trashed the casinos. - and parking meters! Afterwards, modern buildings rose, often prefabs influenced by the Soviet and Eastern European styles.
Coyula talked of owning his apartment but has a struggle to find funds to maintain it. The cost of materials is very expensive. Until the Soviet Union collapsed, 80% of the trade came from the Eastern bloc. Since, Cuba has been struggling. Seventy percent of the food is imported. There is encouragement of small farming and interest in a hybrid economy: 40% planned and 40% private. Problem is fifty years of a planned economy to buck against. Plus a brain drain. Tourism is increasing - Canadians and Americans are most numerous. And they were obviously all about. (And the Cubans do come out ahead, what with two currencies - one for them and one for us - plus a 10% cut, with American dollars).
I found the Muraleando Community Project, fill of life, much more interesting than the Colon Cemetery. Members had decorated several blocks of the area surrounding their building, worthy of mention in Lonely Planet. The stop at the Antonio Nuñez Jimenez Foundation, a cultural and scientific organization was most interesting for along with Jimenez’ writings, was a nice collection of artifacts from Peru and Mexico. The Fine Arts Museum had an extensive collection including some children’s art work. Across the street was the Military Museum, which was being repaired so no admittance.
Out in a one time elegant residential district was Alicia Leah’s home and studio. I was more interested in the neighborhood and her home than her painting. Her home was well kept as were some of the neighboring places - but not all. I thought of Coyula’s comments about the expense of maintenance materials..
The Ludwig Foundation was a NGO focusing on contemporary Cuban art while Case de Africa took a look at the African influences - I opted out of that early; the drumming was too piercing, man! I also left the Fototeca early, becoming bored with some of the presentations; they also had a Andres Serrano exhibit, most of which was a bit too avant garde for me. .
I took off with two of our poets one night, to a cafe where poets were reading their work. It was well attended and they had good ice cream, a must for me. Some were really performance artists while others just stood and simply read. It was mas intersante! Even in Spanish.
The trip ended at the Artisan’s Fair, located in an old warehouse with three elderly train engines before it. It was made clear to us, rail travel was NOT the way to go. But the engines were nicely restored and made an interesting entry way to the building, where all sorts of artistic items were sold. Paintings, leather work, weaving - you name it. A nice ending to our explorations. I walked across the street to look into an old 15th Century church (San Francisco?) with a stained glass window of recent (2000?) origin - obviously new but appropriate to the building. From the chairs and music stands, it must have fair acoustics as it obviously is used for chamber concerts.
Wile we did see and walk about Cienfuegos, the Pearl of the South, we missed out entirely Trinidad, a World Heritage site - the tropical storms were just too much.
There is a lushness to Cuba, greenery about. Though it contrasts with the exhaust smoke from the autos. But, there was the spirit and vitality of the people. I couldn’t help but compare to Libya: there they had recently thrown off the yoke of a Strong Man, now determined not to repeat that; conversely fifty years ago, Cuba had thrown off the corruption of a Strong Man, but replaced him with another Strong Man. Yet, I had the same feeling of exuberance from those I talked with in both countries. Like Libya, Cuba is poor, third world, but full of hope.
Bits and pieces: Patterned hose popular on the younger set, even those in uniform. Hava Nagila being played by a roving quartet at mealtime. The wet suited scuba diver with harpoon and fish, rising from the harbor water by the light of the moon. The sound of the evening cannon going off, leaving me with a day’s worth of ringing in my ears and a broken blood vessel in my eye - I was right next to it, a bad mistake! The couple who gave three of us a ride to the hotel when taxis weren’t forthcoming. The non-English speaking woman who was so concerned that I had a untied shoe lace.
Accommodation: We stayed at four hotels, three in Havana and a resort place outside of Trinidad. The first two hotels were in various parts of Old Havana - we were moved to give us a chance to experience various architectures and districts. These were comfortable 3* hotels with an efficient staff. The resort was having its problems but, given good weather, would have been quite comfortable.. Its customers had come down for R/R and were not happy campers. The last hotel was the Nacional, a year younger than me. A 5*, it was elegant with three restaurants/cafes, a swimming pool and a couple of night clubs. I snuck in one night to see a couple of would-be Apache dancers perform; it was there I saw the Buena Vista bunch.
Food: Excellent. Usually we ate at restaurants patronized by Westerners. Two meals - breakfast and lunch or dinner, were included. Some places I’d never find again and others were quite evident. Choices were usually chicken, fish or pork. You could pick up cheap but good sandwiches at street cafes.
The Tour: Well planned, keeping in mind various artistic interests. And enough spare time to pursue individual agendas. The guides were exceptional: knowledgeable and patient - chasing down tickets for various evening activities. A minimum of propagandizing.
Cost: Global Exchange charged $2600 which included airfare from Cancun to Havana. The sllight from San Francisco to Cancun: $509.63. Overnight Cancun (including restaurant): $150. Entertainment, meals, donations and gifts in Havana: $500.
I entered Cuba as a “delegate” with Global Exchange with a tour focused on Arts, Culture and Architecture. Most of the time was in Havana for we were rained out of Trinidad - in fact, the local resort where we stayed a night, closed down, thoroughly soaked by storms. We ended back in Havana a day early, at the Hotel Nacional, no great hardship there.
But to begin: there were twenty-two in the group: Writers, photographers, architectural historians, students, dancers and other interested travelers. Most stayed with the program though some went their own way - they had other agendas. The itinerary included a walking tour of Old Havana, visits to the Fine Arts Museum, an artist’s studio, meeting with an urban planner, time at various organizations, i.e. the Muraleado community project, the Ludwig Foundation, the Antonio Nuñez Jimenez Foundation, Casa de Africa and Fototeca (local photography) plus observation of dance classes and a rehearsal. And more.
Extra curricularly, I attended several performances of Ballet Nacional de Cuba’s student and main company, an enthusiastic song-dance Opera on the Streets and the Buena Vista Social club with its two marvelous Spanish-style ballroom dancers. And I did get to Hemingway’s Cuban home, now a museum, Finca La Vigia. I missed the Museum of Danse.
Cuba has been described as a country fixated in the fifties. There is some truth to that, what with the old cars and buildings, both in good condition and dilapidated disrepair. Buildings are old Spanish influenced Greco-Roman with decorative metal on both windows and balconies. In the Old Havana, the ground floor was often barren with rickety stairs leading to apartments that would be rejected by any self respected tenement.
My roommate visited several locals, friends of a friend, and reported the basic living conditions of even middle class, had few facilities in their small living areas. Toilets there and elsewhere, were sans seat and lid, leading to a half squat; toilet paper was rare, often handed out at entry for a small tip.
We started with a walk and talk about Old Havana, a presentation of the Master Plan for restoration. Into various plazas and religious buildings. A good orientation to the area.
For me, the high point was the time at Pro Danza, Laura Alonzo’s dance studio and company. As we drifted into observe class, I felt totally at ease, set to remain there indefinitely. The dancers were good, well trained - the men all but hit the ceiling of the room with their jumps and leaps. I was able to talk some with Alonzo, the daughter of Alicia and Fernando, who was charming and energetic as she talked of her background and the company. At seventy, she still takes class - my kind of woman!
Miguel Coyula was an outstanding speaker - not the filmmaker but the architect and urban planner . He reviewed the history of Cuban from the 1500s when it was a stopping point for ships from the colonies onto to their home ports, to the present. (Noted was that the Cuban Capital building, almost identical to the US Capital, excepting two metres taller.) Baptista and the Mafia worked hand in glove. So it was at Revolution, people trashed the casinos. - and parking meters! Afterwards, modern buildings rose, often prefabs influenced by the Soviet and Eastern European styles.
Coyula talked of owning his apartment but has a struggle to find funds to maintain it. The cost of materials is very expensive. Until the Soviet Union collapsed, 80% of the trade came from the Eastern bloc. Since, Cuba has been struggling. Seventy percent of the food is imported. There is encouragement of small farming and interest in a hybrid economy: 40% planned and 40% private. Problem is fifty years of a planned economy to buck against. Plus a brain drain. Tourism is increasing - Canadians and Americans are most numerous. And they were obviously all about. (And the Cubans do come out ahead, what with two currencies - one for them and one for us - plus a 10% cut, with American dollars).
I found the Muraleando Community Project, fill of life, much more interesting than the Colon Cemetery. Members had decorated several blocks of the area surrounding their building, worthy of mention in Lonely Planet. The stop at the Antonio Nuñez Jimenez Foundation, a cultural and scientific organization was most interesting for along with Jimenez’ writings, was a nice collection of artifacts from Peru and Mexico. The Fine Arts Museum had an extensive collection including some children’s art work. Across the street was the Military Museum, which was being repaired so no admittance.
Out in a one time elegant residential district was Alicia Leah’s home and studio. I was more interested in the neighborhood and her home than her painting. Her home was well kept as were some of the neighboring places - but not all. I thought of Coyula’s comments about the expense of maintenance materials..
The Ludwig Foundation was a NGO focusing on contemporary Cuban art while Case de Africa took a look at the African influences - I opted out of that early; the drumming was too piercing, man! I also left the Fototeca early, becoming bored with some of the presentations; they also had a Andres Serrano exhibit, most of which was a bit too avant garde for me. .
I took off with two of our poets one night, to a cafe where poets were reading their work. It was well attended and they had good ice cream, a must for me. Some were really performance artists while others just stood and simply read. It was mas intersante! Even in Spanish.
The trip ended at the Artisan’s Fair, located in an old warehouse with three elderly train engines before it. It was made clear to us, rail travel was NOT the way to go. But the engines were nicely restored and made an interesting entry way to the building, where all sorts of artistic items were sold. Paintings, leather work, weaving - you name it. A nice ending to our explorations. I walked across the street to look into an old 15th Century church (San Francisco?) with a stained glass window of recent (2000?) origin - obviously new but appropriate to the building. From the chairs and music stands, it must have fair acoustics as it obviously is used for chamber concerts.
Wile we did see and walk about Cienfuegos, the Pearl of the South, we missed out entirely Trinidad, a World Heritage site - the tropical storms were just too much.
There is a lushness to Cuba, greenery about. Though it contrasts with the exhaust smoke from the autos. But, there was the spirit and vitality of the people. I couldn’t help but compare to Libya: there they had recently thrown off the yoke of a Strong Man, now determined not to repeat that; conversely fifty years ago, Cuba had thrown off the corruption of a Strong Man, but replaced him with another Strong Man. Yet, I had the same feeling of exuberance from those I talked with in both countries. Like Libya, Cuba is poor, third world, but full of hope.
Bits and pieces: Patterned hose popular on the younger set, even those in uniform. Hava Nagila being played by a roving quartet at mealtime. The wet suited scuba diver with harpoon and fish, rising from the harbor water by the light of the moon. The sound of the evening cannon going off, leaving me with a day’s worth of ringing in my ears and a broken blood vessel in my eye - I was right next to it, a bad mistake! The couple who gave three of us a ride to the hotel when taxis weren’t forthcoming. The non-English speaking woman who was so concerned that I had a untied shoe lace.
Accommodation: We stayed at four hotels, three in Havana and a resort place outside of Trinidad. The first two hotels were in various parts of Old Havana - we were moved to give us a chance to experience various architectures and districts. These were comfortable 3* hotels with an efficient staff. The resort was having its problems but, given good weather, would have been quite comfortable.. Its customers had come down for R/R and were not happy campers. The last hotel was the Nacional, a year younger than me. A 5*, it was elegant with three restaurants/cafes, a swimming pool and a couple of night clubs. I snuck in one night to see a couple of would-be Apache dancers perform; it was there I saw the Buena Vista bunch.
Food: Excellent. Usually we ate at restaurants patronized by Westerners. Two meals - breakfast and lunch or dinner, were included. Some places I’d never find again and others were quite evident. Choices were usually chicken, fish or pork. You could pick up cheap but good sandwiches at street cafes.
The Tour: Well planned, keeping in mind various artistic interests. And enough spare time to pursue individual agendas. The guides were exceptional: knowledgeable and patient - chasing down tickets for various evening activities. A minimum of propagandizing.
Cost: Global Exchange charged $2600 which included airfare from Cancun to Havana. The sllight from San Francisco to Cancun: $509.63. Overnight Cancun (including restaurant): $150. Entertainment, meals, donations and gifts in Havana: $500.
Friday, May 4, 2012
Tysons Corner, McLean VA: April 2012
Tysons Corner-M clean, VA
Less than a year ago, I flew into Raleigh, North Carolina for a Spy Conference, sponsored by local media. I had a good time and learned a lot. Also I was recommended for associate membership in the Association of Former Intelligence Officers, which includes not only CIA types, but strays from military and law enforcement. I managed to slip through one of the loop holes and thus, took myself at their two day yearly symposium in mid-April, 2012.
Home base was the Crown Plaza Hotel, Tysons Corner: quite elegant! This has been a year of elegant hotels for me, what with the stays in Saudi Arabia. I must say though, Tysons Corner is not the beauty spot of Virginia - busy thruways, a collection of office buildings, a large shopping mall and the work-in-progress rail link to DC. did not encourage early sunrise sightings.
However, we spent part of one day at the Office of the Director of National Intelligence at Liberty Crossing and a full day at the Defense Intelligence Agency at Bolling AF Base. The Symposium concluded with a gala banquet. I didn’t know a soul there; looked for my sponsor, a semi-retired AF Colonel, with no success.
Most of the attendees were of the gray,white, or no haired set: about a dozen women - they came from that time where females were mostly clerical workers - half a dozen African- Americans (and about four of them female) and several Asians. They were an alert audience and made good use of the Q&As. One individual had been charged with training Afghan army recruits; another had contact with Robert Hansen, not one of the FBI’s finest; others were active with cyber security, and so on.
The military types have impressed me as no-nonsense guys, forthright and direct in their discussions. James Clapper Jr., the Director of National Intelligence, started as a Marine and retired as LTG, USAF; LTG Mike Flynn, USA,Assistant Director of National Intelligence (and soon to be Director of Defense Intelligence Agency), and LTG Ronald Burgess,USA, Defense Intelligence Director were all individuals I could respect.
The Symposium started at the hotel with a former FBI Counter Intelligence and Security Director, who who presented background on US intelligence gathering. According to David Major, Russians and Chinese are the two biggest collectors of information - and also are busy, spying on each other.
We were quite efficiently processed into the Office of the Director of National Intelligence. There were six speakers, including Director Clapper, focusing on private sector engagements, Intelligence integration, human resources, and technology. I should explain the Director Clapper is the Intelligence Czar; a position created out of the rubble of 9/11 - I asked one of the experts whether it was a helpful move or just another layer of bureaucracy; that person originally felt it was another layer of bureaucracy but now was supportive of its efforts to coordinate the collection of existing intelligence agencies.
So, here are abbreviated notes from the sessions:
Post WW2, there was a system of containment which worked given the Cold War time. However, all changed post 9/11. Since, a fully integrated intelligence community has made the nation more secure. The current approach is to be problem preventers rather than problem solvers. The Intelligence office now works closely with Congress, Civil Liberties groups and legal communities. They are learning more about the scope of social media and cell phones. Comment: need is to focus on the problem rather than just the data.
Intelligence integration makes the whole better than the parts. Basically, there all areas should work together, including the private sector, eg: academics and non-governmental organizations. It appears the US is still in the running vis a vis the Chinese. But admittedly, the US has made poor assumptions: eg: Iraq!
The worldwide Intelligence Community is changing: There used to be were similar values among the players;. now, other cultures, not all nation-states, are involved. Again, integration of information is the key, involving federal, state, local and tribal services.
Concurrent with the new crises, there is the demand to reduce costs, eg. by 25%. Which leads to out sourcing and sharing single cyber platforms. In short, the effort is to protect the mission despite taking a cut in the budget.
Per Director Clapper, agencies did acquire many more people since 9/1, but now, the agencies must deal with financial cuts. He is trying to take the negative and turn it into a positive: Integration is most important, involving all the leaders in the community. He listed several considerations: 1) sustain staff, 2) employ agile capabilities, 3) key investment to maintain strategic advantage. 4) enhance cyber security and Counter intelligence, 5) more integration with Department of Defense and allies.
In answers to questions, Director Clapper commented that the Muslim Brotherhood is not monolithic and not necessarily a terrorist organization; there are 50 pieces of pending legislation re: cyber security, overseas threats appear more serious than home grown ones, contractors have been cut by 30% as directed by Congress. and that it is hardest to deal well with things that haven’t happened.
At near daybreak the next day, nearly 200 of us gathered in three buses for the ride to Bolling AF Base. A nice day, we drove on freeways in various states of building and repair. The Defense Intelligence Agency was housed in a huge, new glass-steel building at odds with the older brick dwellings of the air base. The security arrangements were strictly TSA sans any check of individual ID?
There were a dozen participants, including LTG Burgess. Topics included discussion of a five year strategic plan, the role of Defense Intelligence Officers, Counter Intelligence/ Humint Center, collection management (strategy and programs), the National Intelligence University, and cyber security/ analysis.
Per speakers, lessons were learned from Iraq and Afghanistan, intelligence was going to do more for less. While Defense Intelligence was primarily to assist military operations, there was the emphasis on integration of information as well as working outside US Intelligence organizations and other think tanks.
Trilateral threat assessments are coordinated with US, Canada and Mexico. Drug, terrorist and cyber threats are evaluated by this coalition. The Diplomatic Attaché program is also managed by the Defense Intelligence Agency.
Before 9/11, it seems that the various agencies marched to the tune of their own drummer. Since, strides have been made to integrate the various agencies. Counter Intelligence seemed “ahead of the curve” more than other aspects of intelligence.
LTG Burgess talked of turning currents against Al Qaeda, which continues to be active in Iraq (pro-Sunni), showing up in Syria, with increased activity in Yemen, popping up in Libya, and busy in Somalia. There are current concerns with Iran and cyber security. In 2020, he sees China, as a regional power, competing with the US but not a global peer competitor. To sustain her populations, China will be busy as she must create ten million new jobs over the oncoming years.
A National Intelligence University was started in 1962 and has continued, under varying names and guises. It has a teaching, research and outreach mission. Master’s degrees are offered along with certification programs. The University is accredited.
Talking of cyber security, it appears there are three levels: hackers, criminals and purposeful actors eg: nation states , non national-states and individual groups. Recently, social media has come to the fore. There was some discussion of Wikileaks. Again there was the emphasis to collaborate on all aspects - cyber security and counterintelligence.
Lunch was in the lobby, I was seated next to an Iraqi Scud missile. There was also a shop with caps, sweatshirts, t-shirts, coffee cups and the like, labeled DIA, CIA and related identification. I decided not to buy as couldn’t quite see myself wandering about the Middle East or Central Asia with a cap or t-shirt reading CIA. In fact, there was a shuttle run from the hotel to the CIA gift shop at Herendon for the committed. I also missed that one. But I did do the Banquet - Spies in Black Ties! That turned out to be quite social. The group at our table was a chatty bunch and fun.
The speaker was a former Deputy Director of the CIA, now at Johns Hopkins University. He started by commenting that Intelligence is the least understood instrument of foreign relations. US was the last major country to organize intelligence; we have had an intelligence organization only since 1947. Since 9/11, the government has devoted resources to intelligence activity, giving it a robust legal authority, obtaining unprecedented cooperation from both civilian and military sources.
He gave background on AlQaeda, past to the present, reporting while the core is weakened but the affiliates and lone wolves have come to the fore. The US is probably safer now, but not out of the woods. His concluded with the observation that we now live in a time where events in one part of the world quickly affect the rest of us.
That was it. I did show up to the Saturday breakfast meeting, but it was a housekeeping session. I checked out and flew home. I don’t know that I would do this again: it would depend upon speakers and field trips. But I did find it worth while, once around, to experience the ambiance of this particular world.
Cost: Air fare: $440.60. Hotel: $340.38. Conference: $695.
Less than a year ago, I flew into Raleigh, North Carolina for a Spy Conference, sponsored by local media. I had a good time and learned a lot. Also I was recommended for associate membership in the Association of Former Intelligence Officers, which includes not only CIA types, but strays from military and law enforcement. I managed to slip through one of the loop holes and thus, took myself at their two day yearly symposium in mid-April, 2012.
Home base was the Crown Plaza Hotel, Tysons Corner: quite elegant! This has been a year of elegant hotels for me, what with the stays in Saudi Arabia. I must say though, Tysons Corner is not the beauty spot of Virginia - busy thruways, a collection of office buildings, a large shopping mall and the work-in-progress rail link to DC. did not encourage early sunrise sightings.
However, we spent part of one day at the Office of the Director of National Intelligence at Liberty Crossing and a full day at the Defense Intelligence Agency at Bolling AF Base. The Symposium concluded with a gala banquet. I didn’t know a soul there; looked for my sponsor, a semi-retired AF Colonel, with no success.
Most of the attendees were of the gray,white, or no haired set: about a dozen women - they came from that time where females were mostly clerical workers - half a dozen African- Americans (and about four of them female) and several Asians. They were an alert audience and made good use of the Q&As. One individual had been charged with training Afghan army recruits; another had contact with Robert Hansen, not one of the FBI’s finest; others were active with cyber security, and so on.
The military types have impressed me as no-nonsense guys, forthright and direct in their discussions. James Clapper Jr., the Director of National Intelligence, started as a Marine and retired as LTG, USAF; LTG Mike Flynn, USA,Assistant Director of National Intelligence (and soon to be Director of Defense Intelligence Agency), and LTG Ronald Burgess,USA, Defense Intelligence Director were all individuals I could respect.
The Symposium started at the hotel with a former FBI Counter Intelligence and Security Director, who who presented background on US intelligence gathering. According to David Major, Russians and Chinese are the two biggest collectors of information - and also are busy, spying on each other.
We were quite efficiently processed into the Office of the Director of National Intelligence. There were six speakers, including Director Clapper, focusing on private sector engagements, Intelligence integration, human resources, and technology. I should explain the Director Clapper is the Intelligence Czar; a position created out of the rubble of 9/11 - I asked one of the experts whether it was a helpful move or just another layer of bureaucracy; that person originally felt it was another layer of bureaucracy but now was supportive of its efforts to coordinate the collection of existing intelligence agencies.
So, here are abbreviated notes from the sessions:
Post WW2, there was a system of containment which worked given the Cold War time. However, all changed post 9/11. Since, a fully integrated intelligence community has made the nation more secure. The current approach is to be problem preventers rather than problem solvers. The Intelligence office now works closely with Congress, Civil Liberties groups and legal communities. They are learning more about the scope of social media and cell phones. Comment: need is to focus on the problem rather than just the data.
Intelligence integration makes the whole better than the parts. Basically, there all areas should work together, including the private sector, eg: academics and non-governmental organizations. It appears the US is still in the running vis a vis the Chinese. But admittedly, the US has made poor assumptions: eg: Iraq!
The worldwide Intelligence Community is changing: There used to be were similar values among the players;. now, other cultures, not all nation-states, are involved. Again, integration of information is the key, involving federal, state, local and tribal services.
Concurrent with the new crises, there is the demand to reduce costs, eg. by 25%. Which leads to out sourcing and sharing single cyber platforms. In short, the effort is to protect the mission despite taking a cut in the budget.
Per Director Clapper, agencies did acquire many more people since 9/1, but now, the agencies must deal with financial cuts. He is trying to take the negative and turn it into a positive: Integration is most important, involving all the leaders in the community. He listed several considerations: 1) sustain staff, 2) employ agile capabilities, 3) key investment to maintain strategic advantage. 4) enhance cyber security and Counter intelligence, 5) more integration with Department of Defense and allies.
In answers to questions, Director Clapper commented that the Muslim Brotherhood is not monolithic and not necessarily a terrorist organization; there are 50 pieces of pending legislation re: cyber security, overseas threats appear more serious than home grown ones, contractors have been cut by 30% as directed by Congress. and that it is hardest to deal well with things that haven’t happened.
At near daybreak the next day, nearly 200 of us gathered in three buses for the ride to Bolling AF Base. A nice day, we drove on freeways in various states of building and repair. The Defense Intelligence Agency was housed in a huge, new glass-steel building at odds with the older brick dwellings of the air base. The security arrangements were strictly TSA sans any check of individual ID?
There were a dozen participants, including LTG Burgess. Topics included discussion of a five year strategic plan, the role of Defense Intelligence Officers, Counter Intelligence/ Humint Center, collection management (strategy and programs), the National Intelligence University, and cyber security/ analysis.
Per speakers, lessons were learned from Iraq and Afghanistan, intelligence was going to do more for less. While Defense Intelligence was primarily to assist military operations, there was the emphasis on integration of information as well as working outside US Intelligence organizations and other think tanks.
Trilateral threat assessments are coordinated with US, Canada and Mexico. Drug, terrorist and cyber threats are evaluated by this coalition. The Diplomatic Attaché program is also managed by the Defense Intelligence Agency.
Before 9/11, it seems that the various agencies marched to the tune of their own drummer. Since, strides have been made to integrate the various agencies. Counter Intelligence seemed “ahead of the curve” more than other aspects of intelligence.
LTG Burgess talked of turning currents against Al Qaeda, which continues to be active in Iraq (pro-Sunni), showing up in Syria, with increased activity in Yemen, popping up in Libya, and busy in Somalia. There are current concerns with Iran and cyber security. In 2020, he sees China, as a regional power, competing with the US but not a global peer competitor. To sustain her populations, China will be busy as she must create ten million new jobs over the oncoming years.
A National Intelligence University was started in 1962 and has continued, under varying names and guises. It has a teaching, research and outreach mission. Master’s degrees are offered along with certification programs. The University is accredited.
Talking of cyber security, it appears there are three levels: hackers, criminals and purposeful actors eg: nation states , non national-states and individual groups. Recently, social media has come to the fore. There was some discussion of Wikileaks. Again there was the emphasis to collaborate on all aspects - cyber security and counterintelligence.
Lunch was in the lobby, I was seated next to an Iraqi Scud missile. There was also a shop with caps, sweatshirts, t-shirts, coffee cups and the like, labeled DIA, CIA and related identification. I decided not to buy as couldn’t quite see myself wandering about the Middle East or Central Asia with a cap or t-shirt reading CIA. In fact, there was a shuttle run from the hotel to the CIA gift shop at Herendon for the committed. I also missed that one. But I did do the Banquet - Spies in Black Ties! That turned out to be quite social. The group at our table was a chatty bunch and fun.
The speaker was a former Deputy Director of the CIA, now at Johns Hopkins University. He started by commenting that Intelligence is the least understood instrument of foreign relations. US was the last major country to organize intelligence; we have had an intelligence organization only since 1947. Since 9/11, the government has devoted resources to intelligence activity, giving it a robust legal authority, obtaining unprecedented cooperation from both civilian and military sources.
He gave background on AlQaeda, past to the present, reporting while the core is weakened but the affiliates and lone wolves have come to the fore. The US is probably safer now, but not out of the woods. His concluded with the observation that we now live in a time where events in one part of the world quickly affect the rest of us.
That was it. I did show up to the Saturday breakfast meeting, but it was a housekeeping session. I checked out and flew home. I don’t know that I would do this again: it would depend upon speakers and field trips. But I did find it worth while, once around, to experience the ambiance of this particular world.
Cost: Air fare: $440.60. Hotel: $340.38. Conference: $695.
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Colby Miitary Writers' Symposium April 2012
Norwich College, Vermont: April 2012
Two years ago, I flew to Vermont for the two day Colby Military Writers Symposium, interested in their discussion of Iraq and Afghanistan. Norwich College, where the gathering was held, was charming; Then, it was cold, snowy and picturesque. On return this year, I found it chilly, mostly dry and still picturesque. Both the town of Northfield and the college.
To explain: The Colby Military Writers’ Symposium is named after former CIA Director, William E Colby, a WW 2 OSS veteran. A long time friend of Norwich University, he was awarded an Honorary Doctorate in Public Service in 1992. In 1997, the Military Writers’ Symposium was named after him.
As before, I found the participants thoughtful and considered in their discussion of the country’s present problems - the title of the symposium was Afghanistan and America’s Endless War on Terrorism. And certainly not boring.
But preceding the symposium proper. there was a day’s presentations by four authors. All their recent books but one were with a military theme: a novel about the Civil War, a study of Naval warfare in the South Pacific during WW2, a memoir of a Marine’s experiences in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the status of today’s media by thirty year ABC Journalist. It was a nice balance of participants: a retired light Colonel, a Marine Captain who had moved onto to strategic analysis, a naval historian cum literary agent, and the long time reporter.
Barrie Dunsmore, who wrote There and Back, talked about The Demise of the News Media and Why That Matters. pointed out past commitment of networks to the news. In recent years, though, ratings went down. Beancutters moved in, a business model prevailed plus the challenge of cable and the Internet in all varieties. One comment that scored for me, a former Journalism student, was that current audiences seemed to identify with opinionated commentary rather than factual reporting.
I was most interested in Ralph Peters, retired military, author, commentator, and columnist - I have read several of his books and follow his column in an American military magazine. Don’t always agree with him, but find him articulate and knowledgeable. He has written one of the best travel books I’ve read, Looking for Trouble. His current book, Cain at Gettysburg, is a novel of the Civil War so it was logical he spoke of Myths of Gettysburg.
One comment Peters made about writing: the historian gives the facts while well done historical fiction captures the flavor and emotions of the time. Also, while the current thesis we have never been so politically divided, is not true when one considers past intramural conflicts. Peters talked at some length about the battles at Gettysburg and the leaders. For him, it was clear that Meade won Gettysburg for the Union.
Nathaniel Fick, a infantry officer. had won the Colby award in 2006, with his book, One Bullet Away. Now CEO of a security research organization, his topic was American Power and Purpose in Afghanistan, Iraq and Beyond. A classics major as an undergraduate, he read of the Peloponnesian Wars before his active duty which found him with the canceled mission at Tora Bora. He talked of the difference between Iraq, urban warfare, and Afghanistan, which was definitely rural. And the college’s cadets poured in to hear him.
In his comparison of conflicts, they range from Insurgency (ie: Iraq and Afghanistan) through conventional warfare to the nuclear option (North Korea and Iran). Two comments that got my attention: the Interest on the debt will soon be exceeded by defense expenditures; our allies are spending less on defense while we are the world’s biggest defense spender. Also, : the US is good at building but needs be more flexible and relevant.
I remembered James Hornfischer from the 2010 Colby; his third book, Neptune’s Inferno, is just out. And that was what he talked about, the WW2 naval engagements in the South Pacific during WW2, at Guadalcanal. I was most interested for my husband was a Yeoman aboard ship anchored at Noumea during that time.
Horfischer described the problems with the Guadalcanal campaign. The Marines were dropped off, with the Navy then caught up in its own problems. Though the US had superiority daytimes, the Japanese took over at night. The non use of newly developed radar compounded the issue. Changes in command lead to Halsey’s appointment as the in-charge guy - respected by subordinates and a gambler by nature, he took chances and won out. Comment: Midway belonged to the air fleet while Guadalcanal was a naval foray.
Speakers were on the local radio and met with students in classes. A military school. Norwich has combined civilian-cadet students. One of the graduating cadets I talked with, is an education major hoping to teach in elementary school upon graduation. No plan to enter the military. All types, including former service(wo)men.
The Symposium featured the three authors with James Hornfischer moderating. It was the third year that the Afghanistan conflict had been featured: The Endless War?
The newsman, remembering when the Russians came into Afghanistan, felt it was time to make an end to our involvement, commenting that there were similarities to the Russian experience as well as US efforts in Vietnam. Concerns about neighboring Pakistan seem to justify the US involvement with Afghanistan. But, we need allies there and our allies seem to be bailing.
The former Army officer thought the US had been successful in the original mission in 2002 but then confused AlQueda and the Taliban, the latter being the local Afghan hill billies, no particular threat to the US. He was very critical of US efforts at nation building and the COIN philosophy, which does assume a stable government. He felt religion was a key factor in the insurgency. He thought Pakistan was more important in the Cold War context than now.
The Marine noted that while Kabul was the political capital of the country, Kandalhar was the spiritual center. Also, a deadline for the Western military support means you have given up any supremacy. Another problem is the dis inclination to relieve poorly performing officers from command - at one time, an officer could be transferred to another assignment, where he might be more successful. Any such move is now seen as a “demerit”. He also suggested the US and its allies, should be thinking in terms of Pakistan-Afghanistan rather than Afghanistan-Pakistan.
Concluding, the Marine paraphrased a ET Lawrence quote: “Do not try to do too much with your own hands; better the Arabs do it tolerably than you do it perfectly. It’s their war and you are there to help them, not to win it for them,” as applying to the Afghanistan problem. And then commented that concerns with Afghanistan may diminish as the West becomes more involved with Israel and Iran.
The Reception and Dinner was the final evening, a mix of authors, guests, donors, alumni, and cadets. The menu was mixed, inspired by the books featured during the Symposium. There were several presentation, including the 2012 Colby Award winner, Michael Franzak’s A Nighmare’s Prayer, a Afghanistan memoir by a Marine Harrier pilot. It was at the Dinner’s conclusion that the Symposium’s Director, Dr Andrew Knauf, gave an outline of Terrorism, from pre Christian times to the now -well researched and presented.
And so the next morning, I packed up and headed back to San Francisco.
I stayed in a nearby B/B - the operators were off in the UK but had left a key for me. I had breakfast at the college cafeteria. So it was $310 for three nights at The Elizabethan, $200 round trip shuttle to/from Burlington airport, and $150 for the Symposium. Round trip airfare was $472, with United going out of its way to change flights so I could return home several hours earlier.
I probably will return another year, depending on program and speakers.
Two years ago, I flew to Vermont for the two day Colby Military Writers Symposium, interested in their discussion of Iraq and Afghanistan. Norwich College, where the gathering was held, was charming; Then, it was cold, snowy and picturesque. On return this year, I found it chilly, mostly dry and still picturesque. Both the town of Northfield and the college.
To explain: The Colby Military Writers’ Symposium is named after former CIA Director, William E Colby, a WW 2 OSS veteran. A long time friend of Norwich University, he was awarded an Honorary Doctorate in Public Service in 1992. In 1997, the Military Writers’ Symposium was named after him.
As before, I found the participants thoughtful and considered in their discussion of the country’s present problems - the title of the symposium was Afghanistan and America’s Endless War on Terrorism. And certainly not boring.
But preceding the symposium proper. there was a day’s presentations by four authors. All their recent books but one were with a military theme: a novel about the Civil War, a study of Naval warfare in the South Pacific during WW2, a memoir of a Marine’s experiences in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the status of today’s media by thirty year ABC Journalist. It was a nice balance of participants: a retired light Colonel, a Marine Captain who had moved onto to strategic analysis, a naval historian cum literary agent, and the long time reporter.
Barrie Dunsmore, who wrote There and Back, talked about The Demise of the News Media and Why That Matters. pointed out past commitment of networks to the news. In recent years, though, ratings went down. Beancutters moved in, a business model prevailed plus the challenge of cable and the Internet in all varieties. One comment that scored for me, a former Journalism student, was that current audiences seemed to identify with opinionated commentary rather than factual reporting.
I was most interested in Ralph Peters, retired military, author, commentator, and columnist - I have read several of his books and follow his column in an American military magazine. Don’t always agree with him, but find him articulate and knowledgeable. He has written one of the best travel books I’ve read, Looking for Trouble. His current book, Cain at Gettysburg, is a novel of the Civil War so it was logical he spoke of Myths of Gettysburg.
One comment Peters made about writing: the historian gives the facts while well done historical fiction captures the flavor and emotions of the time. Also, while the current thesis we have never been so politically divided, is not true when one considers past intramural conflicts. Peters talked at some length about the battles at Gettysburg and the leaders. For him, it was clear that Meade won Gettysburg for the Union.
Nathaniel Fick, a infantry officer. had won the Colby award in 2006, with his book, One Bullet Away. Now CEO of a security research organization, his topic was American Power and Purpose in Afghanistan, Iraq and Beyond. A classics major as an undergraduate, he read of the Peloponnesian Wars before his active duty which found him with the canceled mission at Tora Bora. He talked of the difference between Iraq, urban warfare, and Afghanistan, which was definitely rural. And the college’s cadets poured in to hear him.
In his comparison of conflicts, they range from Insurgency (ie: Iraq and Afghanistan) through conventional warfare to the nuclear option (North Korea and Iran). Two comments that got my attention: the Interest on the debt will soon be exceeded by defense expenditures; our allies are spending less on defense while we are the world’s biggest defense spender. Also, : the US is good at building but needs be more flexible and relevant.
I remembered James Hornfischer from the 2010 Colby; his third book, Neptune’s Inferno, is just out. And that was what he talked about, the WW2 naval engagements in the South Pacific during WW2, at Guadalcanal. I was most interested for my husband was a Yeoman aboard ship anchored at Noumea during that time.
Horfischer described the problems with the Guadalcanal campaign. The Marines were dropped off, with the Navy then caught up in its own problems. Though the US had superiority daytimes, the Japanese took over at night. The non use of newly developed radar compounded the issue. Changes in command lead to Halsey’s appointment as the in-charge guy - respected by subordinates and a gambler by nature, he took chances and won out. Comment: Midway belonged to the air fleet while Guadalcanal was a naval foray.
Speakers were on the local radio and met with students in classes. A military school. Norwich has combined civilian-cadet students. One of the graduating cadets I talked with, is an education major hoping to teach in elementary school upon graduation. No plan to enter the military. All types, including former service(wo)men.
The Symposium featured the three authors with James Hornfischer moderating. It was the third year that the Afghanistan conflict had been featured: The Endless War?
The newsman, remembering when the Russians came into Afghanistan, felt it was time to make an end to our involvement, commenting that there were similarities to the Russian experience as well as US efforts in Vietnam. Concerns about neighboring Pakistan seem to justify the US involvement with Afghanistan. But, we need allies there and our allies seem to be bailing.
The former Army officer thought the US had been successful in the original mission in 2002 but then confused AlQueda and the Taliban, the latter being the local Afghan hill billies, no particular threat to the US. He was very critical of US efforts at nation building and the COIN philosophy, which does assume a stable government. He felt religion was a key factor in the insurgency. He thought Pakistan was more important in the Cold War context than now.
The Marine noted that while Kabul was the political capital of the country, Kandalhar was the spiritual center. Also, a deadline for the Western military support means you have given up any supremacy. Another problem is the dis inclination to relieve poorly performing officers from command - at one time, an officer could be transferred to another assignment, where he might be more successful. Any such move is now seen as a “demerit”. He also suggested the US and its allies, should be thinking in terms of Pakistan-Afghanistan rather than Afghanistan-Pakistan.
Concluding, the Marine paraphrased a ET Lawrence quote: “Do not try to do too much with your own hands; better the Arabs do it tolerably than you do it perfectly. It’s their war and you are there to help them, not to win it for them,” as applying to the Afghanistan problem. And then commented that concerns with Afghanistan may diminish as the West becomes more involved with Israel and Iran.
The Reception and Dinner was the final evening, a mix of authors, guests, donors, alumni, and cadets. The menu was mixed, inspired by the books featured during the Symposium. There were several presentation, including the 2012 Colby Award winner, Michael Franzak’s A Nighmare’s Prayer, a Afghanistan memoir by a Marine Harrier pilot. It was at the Dinner’s conclusion that the Symposium’s Director, Dr Andrew Knauf, gave an outline of Terrorism, from pre Christian times to the now -well researched and presented.
And so the next morning, I packed up and headed back to San Francisco.
I stayed in a nearby B/B - the operators were off in the UK but had left a key for me. I had breakfast at the college cafeteria. So it was $310 for three nights at The Elizabethan, $200 round trip shuttle to/from Burlington airport, and $150 for the Symposium. Round trip airfare was $472, with United going out of its way to change flights so I could return home several hours earlier.
I probably will return another year, depending on program and speakers.
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Finally, Libya! 6-18 March 2012
I've been trying to visit Libya for some years. I have a number os articles by those who gt in circa 2004; their experience was totally different than mine. They had minders and fund Tripoli depressing and drab. I had no minder and found Tripoli full of color and energy. The difference: Gadaffi was gone!
I immediately signed on when Political Tours announced a March trip to Libya, even though it centered in Tripoli rather than Benghazi in the East, my main interest. Political Tours' purpose was to explore "the overall fall out from the conflict" and look at "how best can peaceful and durable political settlement . . . be achieved."
Understand that Libya consists of three main sector - Tripolitania, Cyrenaica and Fezzan (the West, the East and the South) - which have been played against each other by Gadaffi. The East led the "Arab Spring" revolt against Gadaffi and it was only six months ago, that the last holdouts in West and South surrendered. The East, which had the oil, felt cheated by the West which had the power. The Sth, desert tribal country, was catered to by Gadaffi. So to say that current governance is in flux, might be an understatement.
There were five of us, led by Political Tours director, an ex NY Times foreign correspondent. Besides myself, there was a semi-retired Texas energy man, an Australian attorney, a British NGO worker from Yemen and a British-Australian-American college student from Colorado. All good travelers; all knowledgeable about the Libyan crises, past and present.
Over the week, we had access to various media representatives, NGO people, local and National interim administrators, British Embassy staff - the American Embassy was on the edge of town and staff unavailable except in emergency as remodeling was occurring - consultants, school staff, militia council leaders, displaced person and average citizens. We were based in Tripoli all but on night when we drove to Misarta and Tauorga.
For the first few days we were followed and filmed by a CNN team and a French TV crew. (see http://backstory.blogs.cnn.com and http://topics.cnn.com/topics/libya) The Tunisian cameraman, half of the French crew, was probably one of the most unforgetable characters I'll ever run into. Energetic and always gleeful, he got into the most unbelievable and dangerous positions to get a shot. Hanging out of the window of a moving auto -
Though I found enthusiasm for a Gadaffi-less country, there was a concern things were moving to slowly toward a functioning government. Yet there was a need to move carefully to avoid further conflict. It all depended upon who you spoke with. The(wo)men on the street were joyful: revolutionary signs and the old/new Libyan flags were all, and I mean all, over. The first Friday I was there, there was a loud and enthusiastic rally supporting an United Libya - One Libya - no federalization. This was in response to a report that Benghazi and the East might loosen ties with a national government from Tripoli.
Another problem was that of the militia/brigade/kitiba members, who continued to main checkpoints and wander about in military garb, carry weapons. On the street and at the airport. Manning check points. Not particularly threatening, at least to us, but there! The hope was most would drift into the army or police - so no direct confrontation with them ala Gadaffi.
Then the garbage: garbage has not been picked up in Tripoli for months. People leaned abut their establishments and took it, neatly tied in plastic bags, elsewhere. NIMBY. According to a member of the Tripoli council, the owner of the previously used garbage site had been forced to provide service during the Gadaffi regim so - with Gadaffi gone, he declared independence from Tripoli's garbage. De facto sites included a mile or more along the airport road with smoldering fires polluting the air. Admittedly a health hazard, the local council was committed to negotiations rather than force the issue with the site's owner. Another effort not to emulate the past.
It's all complicated by a non elected, volunteer government. Much hope is placed on summer elections which will select individuals to hammer out a Constitution - we met with a woman anxious t be one of those selected. Subsequently, an other election to approve the Constitution and elect representatives. At the moment, the National Transitional Council theoretically heads the country and the Tripoli Local Council has responsibility for the city. Along with militias and the like. But political parties are being to be former. Remember, this is a country with 42 years of autocratic rule, feeling it was politically.
As a local Journalist pointed out, Libya had a social uprising while Egypt had a civil war. And the Libyan uprising involved planning between militias, army and NATO. At the beginning, it was thought all would end quickly, as in Tunisia and Egypt. It was a surprise that Gadaffi reacted so strongly. One comment was that it was probably good that the revolutionaries didn't realize the extent of Gadaffi's resistance or there might not have been a Libyan Revolt.
We visited Bab Azizya, the remains of Gadaffi's headquarters and home. Thoroughly trashed by NATO and locals, much more than Saddam's Babylon palace. Some families moved into nearby army bunker, cleaning up the interiors and caging electricity from a nearby apartment complex. We talked with a hospital administrator who had moved him family in he could not manage ongoing rent. Salaries are not good to civil servants.
At the old prison, Abu Seleem, where people had been detained indefinitely in the old days, a former immate was our guide. Other ex-inmates were around, showing their former quarters to their families. Our guy had been there for eleven years for the crime of early morning prayer at the mosque - never convicted.
At Misrate, there are various militias whose members were active in the fighting, not only locally but in Tripoli and Sirte. They also hated their neighbors, the Tauogans, ex-slaves of generations ago, considered as pro-Gadaffi. I'm not sure in what order it happened, but some Tauogans raped and pillaged Misratans and Misratans trashed Tauoga and ran residents out, holding all responsible for the actions of, possibly, several hundred.
Misrate was really decimated - there was hard, hand to hand fighting and I could see where mortar and sniper shots landed on the buildings. There is now a museum, with captured military equipment and walls lined with photos of those killed, both fighters and victims. People. obviously moved by their time visiting, wrote rather lengthy comments in the visitors' log. A military cuncil commander, a former agricultural worker, mentoined problems of PTSD resulting from the conflict. Like the Triploi officias, he talked of the militias being absorbed into police, army or back to their old professions.
The Tauogans were rescued and brught t Tripli where they are housed in a former Navy facility as IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons). Effectively, they are detained, for they are endangered if they leave the camp. (I heard the chairman of the NTC refer to them as "non Libyans" though he quickly reversed himself) As a group, we met with several leaders of the community. Later, two from the group returned to spend more time talking with them. The Tauogans want to return home and feel no one cares about what happens to them. Their homes are severely damaged and they are unable to protect their lands. Doctors Without Borders and Save the Children are the agencies presently helping them.
Human Rights Watch is concerned about the status of those detained by the militias rather than the Ministry of the Interior - and thus subject to the caprices of the winners. Another example of oppressed becoming oppressor!
In and about Tripoli, there were uncompleted building projects, with silent cranes standing sentry, and a deteriorating infrastructure. Conversely, people were working on small remodeling and maintenance projects. In the Medina where I stayed, there were ongoing efforts - along with some of the more creative writing Ive seen sort of Chungking Mansions in Kowloon. As usual, by the time I figured out all the byways, I moved on.
Many women wear headscarves and long coats though a younger group is in tight jeans but head, headscarf. People were welcoming asking where I was from, happy with the American help in the conflict, and approving of my Palestinian head scarf. Throughout I felt perfectly safe, poking about on my own, Though the tour group did have Security for most of our travels - the best and most professional I've run into in he eight countries where I've dealt with it. Inconspucious but aware. No weapons, but even so, I wouldn't want to tangle with any of our people. Excepting the in-charge guy, they were locals with their stories of the fighting.
There were two sightseeing opportunities: Leptis Magna, as part of the tour, and Sabratha, where three of us went on our own. Both were exhilarating. World Heritage sites. Part of my ongoing efforts to track the Romans on their travels of centuries back. Both on the coast with a backdrop of blue sea for the ruins. We were among the few visitors to both sites. Fantastic experience.
Accommodatons: Could not have been better; The El Khan Hotel in the Medina, near the Marcus Arelius Arch. With conveniences and atmosphere.
Food: I ate more pizza than I've ever had in my life. It was that or baked chicken or grilled fish or kabobs. My best meal was a chicken-cheese-spinach sandwich with a mixed fruit drink at a nearby cafe. However, I must admit two buffet breakfast at the Cornthia Hotel were superb, though $30 apiece.
Tour: In some ways, this tour was similar to the several Global Exchange/Realty tours I've gone with - an educational experience, above and beyond the usual sightseeing. A bit more pricey but I though it worth it given the quality of the interviewees. I'll travel with Political Tours again, likely into the Balkans.
And I'm still hoping for trek into Eastern and Southern Libya.
Cost: The tour cost: about $7500, including the last minute visa fees. I was there three days on my own. I used frequent flyers miles - about wiped our my account - only $205 airfare, including two segments Business class. But even in Economy, the seat next to me was empty - second time that has happened. I must be living right.
I immediately signed on when Political Tours announced a March trip to Libya, even though it centered in Tripoli rather than Benghazi in the East, my main interest. Political Tours' purpose was to explore "the overall fall out from the conflict" and look at "how best can peaceful and durable political settlement . . . be achieved."
Understand that Libya consists of three main sector - Tripolitania, Cyrenaica and Fezzan (the West, the East and the South) - which have been played against each other by Gadaffi. The East led the "Arab Spring" revolt against Gadaffi and it was only six months ago, that the last holdouts in West and South surrendered. The East, which had the oil, felt cheated by the West which had the power. The Sth, desert tribal country, was catered to by Gadaffi. So to say that current governance is in flux, might be an understatement.
There were five of us, led by Political Tours director, an ex NY Times foreign correspondent. Besides myself, there was a semi-retired Texas energy man, an Australian attorney, a British NGO worker from Yemen and a British-Australian-American college student from Colorado. All good travelers; all knowledgeable about the Libyan crises, past and present.
Over the week, we had access to various media representatives, NGO people, local and National interim administrators, British Embassy staff - the American Embassy was on the edge of town and staff unavailable except in emergency as remodeling was occurring - consultants, school staff, militia council leaders, displaced person and average citizens. We were based in Tripoli all but on night when we drove to Misarta and Tauorga.
For the first few days we were followed and filmed by a CNN team and a French TV crew. (see http://backstory.blogs.cnn.com and http://topics.cnn.com/topics/libya) The Tunisian cameraman, half of the French crew, was probably one of the most unforgetable characters I'll ever run into. Energetic and always gleeful, he got into the most unbelievable and dangerous positions to get a shot. Hanging out of the window of a moving auto -
Though I found enthusiasm for a Gadaffi-less country, there was a concern things were moving to slowly toward a functioning government. Yet there was a need to move carefully to avoid further conflict. It all depended upon who you spoke with. The(wo)men on the street were joyful: revolutionary signs and the old/new Libyan flags were all, and I mean all, over. The first Friday I was there, there was a loud and enthusiastic rally supporting an United Libya - One Libya - no federalization. This was in response to a report that Benghazi and the East might loosen ties with a national government from Tripoli.
Another problem was that of the militia/brigade/kitiba members, who continued to main checkpoints and wander about in military garb, carry weapons. On the street and at the airport. Manning check points. Not particularly threatening, at least to us, but there! The hope was most would drift into the army or police - so no direct confrontation with them ala Gadaffi.
Then the garbage: garbage has not been picked up in Tripoli for months. People leaned abut their establishments and took it, neatly tied in plastic bags, elsewhere. NIMBY. According to a member of the Tripoli council, the owner of the previously used garbage site had been forced to provide service during the Gadaffi regim so - with Gadaffi gone, he declared independence from Tripoli's garbage. De facto sites included a mile or more along the airport road with smoldering fires polluting the air. Admittedly a health hazard, the local council was committed to negotiations rather than force the issue with the site's owner. Another effort not to emulate the past.
It's all complicated by a non elected, volunteer government. Much hope is placed on summer elections which will select individuals to hammer out a Constitution - we met with a woman anxious t be one of those selected. Subsequently, an other election to approve the Constitution and elect representatives. At the moment, the National Transitional Council theoretically heads the country and the Tripoli Local Council has responsibility for the city. Along with militias and the like. But political parties are being to be former. Remember, this is a country with 42 years of autocratic rule, feeling it was politically.
As a local Journalist pointed out, Libya had a social uprising while Egypt had a civil war. And the Libyan uprising involved planning between militias, army and NATO. At the beginning, it was thought all would end quickly, as in Tunisia and Egypt. It was a surprise that Gadaffi reacted so strongly. One comment was that it was probably good that the revolutionaries didn't realize the extent of Gadaffi's resistance or there might not have been a Libyan Revolt.
We visited Bab Azizya, the remains of Gadaffi's headquarters and home. Thoroughly trashed by NATO and locals, much more than Saddam's Babylon palace. Some families moved into nearby army bunker, cleaning up the interiors and caging electricity from a nearby apartment complex. We talked with a hospital administrator who had moved him family in he could not manage ongoing rent. Salaries are not good to civil servants.
At the old prison, Abu Seleem, where people had been detained indefinitely in the old days, a former immate was our guide. Other ex-inmates were around, showing their former quarters to their families. Our guy had been there for eleven years for the crime of early morning prayer at the mosque - never convicted.
At Misrate, there are various militias whose members were active in the fighting, not only locally but in Tripoli and Sirte. They also hated their neighbors, the Tauogans, ex-slaves of generations ago, considered as pro-Gadaffi. I'm not sure in what order it happened, but some Tauogans raped and pillaged Misratans and Misratans trashed Tauoga and ran residents out, holding all responsible for the actions of, possibly, several hundred.
Misrate was really decimated - there was hard, hand to hand fighting and I could see where mortar and sniper shots landed on the buildings. There is now a museum, with captured military equipment and walls lined with photos of those killed, both fighters and victims. People. obviously moved by their time visiting, wrote rather lengthy comments in the visitors' log. A military cuncil commander, a former agricultural worker, mentoined problems of PTSD resulting from the conflict. Like the Triploi officias, he talked of the militias being absorbed into police, army or back to their old professions.
The Tauogans were rescued and brught t Tripli where they are housed in a former Navy facility as IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons). Effectively, they are detained, for they are endangered if they leave the camp. (I heard the chairman of the NTC refer to them as "non Libyans" though he quickly reversed himself) As a group, we met with several leaders of the community. Later, two from the group returned to spend more time talking with them. The Tauogans want to return home and feel no one cares about what happens to them. Their homes are severely damaged and they are unable to protect their lands. Doctors Without Borders and Save the Children are the agencies presently helping them.
Human Rights Watch is concerned about the status of those detained by the militias rather than the Ministry of the Interior - and thus subject to the caprices of the winners. Another example of oppressed becoming oppressor!
In and about Tripoli, there were uncompleted building projects, with silent cranes standing sentry, and a deteriorating infrastructure. Conversely, people were working on small remodeling and maintenance projects. In the Medina where I stayed, there were ongoing efforts - along with some of the more creative writing Ive seen sort of Chungking Mansions in Kowloon. As usual, by the time I figured out all the byways, I moved on.
Many women wear headscarves and long coats though a younger group is in tight jeans but head, headscarf. People were welcoming asking where I was from, happy with the American help in the conflict, and approving of my Palestinian head scarf. Throughout I felt perfectly safe, poking about on my own, Though the tour group did have Security for most of our travels - the best and most professional I've run into in he eight countries where I've dealt with it. Inconspucious but aware. No weapons, but even so, I wouldn't want to tangle with any of our people. Excepting the in-charge guy, they were locals with their stories of the fighting.
There were two sightseeing opportunities: Leptis Magna, as part of the tour, and Sabratha, where three of us went on our own. Both were exhilarating. World Heritage sites. Part of my ongoing efforts to track the Romans on their travels of centuries back. Both on the coast with a backdrop of blue sea for the ruins. We were among the few visitors to both sites. Fantastic experience.
Accommodatons: Could not have been better; The El Khan Hotel in the Medina, near the Marcus Arelius Arch. With conveniences and atmosphere.
Food: I ate more pizza than I've ever had in my life. It was that or baked chicken or grilled fish or kabobs. My best meal was a chicken-cheese-spinach sandwich with a mixed fruit drink at a nearby cafe. However, I must admit two buffet breakfast at the Cornthia Hotel were superb, though $30 apiece.
Tour: In some ways, this tour was similar to the several Global Exchange/Realty tours I've gone with - an educational experience, above and beyond the usual sightseeing. A bit more pricey but I though it worth it given the quality of the interviewees. I'll travel with Political Tours again, likely into the Balkans.
And I'm still hoping for trek into Eastern and Southern Libya.
Cost: The tour cost: about $7500, including the last minute visa fees. I was there three days on my own. I used frequent flyers miles - about wiped our my account - only $205 airfare, including two segments Business class. But even in Economy, the seat next to me was empty - second time that has happened. I must be living right.
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